Jasonc

The 3dcults link is where I got and printed mine. It did require some extra work as parts of one of them was a bit hollow in places, and left uncured resin inside of it (unless you put drain holed in it). The sculpt is good though. The only think I could think to improve, would be to give it optional hand poses for more dynamic poses.

Oh wow, that's some clever solutions to that. Because I am using a 4K resin, so I was able to get the cable part of the print to be very thin. Depending on how it's prepped and set up before curing, the cables can end up being pretty tight, and look like they're supposed to. I got several good prints with them, so I can't complain. I did send you a message about your print, so I hope you get a chance to take a look at it.

It doesn't on the inside. I put one there as an option. On the outside, I don't think it has one either, but it needs one in order to print properly.

REVIVAL FROM THE DEAD!!! I've been thinking about bringing my kit out to work on it, since it is a bit of an oddball kit, and aside from professional builds that don't have the customized touch that most of us do, it hasn't really been a popular build. That said, I hope this post brings out a finished image of this fantastic build. I know it's been awhile, but I hope this was completed, or at least has some progress.

That is an option. I'm going to try some leftover electrical wire, since that is a lot easier to work with in bending and twisting.

I did try this with a version I made for stringing it. Unfortunately, the 1/60 scale is just too small to fit even the thinnest high E string in the top, unless I make the center pole just really thick. In doing that though, it makes the design less aesthetically pleasing. I did order .15mm steel string and I can see if that works, but putting the holes on the top are not easy. I may try making the stringed version have 8 connectors instead of 10. That'll allow wider holes, and better integrity in the top for putting the steel string through. As of now though, it isn't working as well as I had hoped.

That is possible, but then I'd have to buy that. I was also thinking some thin steel wire, which is an option. I may make one with places to insert and wrap that sort of line. As a matter of fact, I'll probably upload that option onto the project where I uploaded it.

So, a number of years ago, P.W.Royce showed off a FDM printed tent that resembled the one shown in DYRL. Since that thread has been dead for sometime, the idea of getting one done never left my head. I always wanted to make one for the 1/60 verson. Fast forward to now, where I was able to take some time to design one up and get it printed. I wasn't sure how stable it'd be with using such small diameter cables for the design, so I made one with very thin ones, and one with thicker versions, and one top that is a bit more rounded than the other. Another I made with a base inside, but I don't think that one is necessary, as the prints came out great without it. In any case, it is now up on cults3d, and fairly cheap if you want to print one, or throw it up on Shapeways and have them print it.

I started with resin printing simply because of the detail that is in the prints vs. FDM printing. That said, it is a long process in learning the quirks of it, like keeping things as clean as can be, cleaning the prints, setting up your printer to the right settings, etc. There's a lot to figure out, but when you do, it's a great way to get high detailed, good, solid prints. I do use the Lychee slicer (paid version). The ads aren't there, and there haven't been any crash issues with it. That's just my experience with it, but so far, I'm happy with my setup for it.

Mine should be at home when I get there at 1600. Looking forward to some vegetable curry with rice, and a glass of shochu while taking this show in.

I really wish they would've actually made some updates to this, like reinforcing the hinges and ball joints, and created some locking mechanisms for battroid. I'll most likely be keeping my renewal version, but I will say that I do like the matte finish. I'll probably get one from Japan, just for that exchange rate.

Hey, sorry if this wasn't answered. yeah, dealer's room/vending hall is the same thing. There should be a nice surprise announcement around the corner, so I'll be excited to see that come up. Stay tuned for it.

Oh man. Now I'm held to that date. This is going to be really tight squeeze.

For that back seat, you can just use another of the front seat. the back seat there is an option if you put magnets in it, the 3 x 1 mm round ones, but it not, you can just use a second front seat. Aside from that, the prints came out great. I just recently started painting other parts. It's not the easiest to paint the cockpit, the pin stripe, nose, and then the body, but I'm hoping for the best. Trying to get it done by 9/17 (Super Dimension Con).

I do include the blue alcohol dye because I also add 10-20% Saraya Tech Tenacious. It has a clear but slightly yellow tint, which doesn't affect the blu clear v.2 too much, but I like being a bit cautious. Tenacious mix adds strength, but also flexibility, which is a property that is needed in some parts like a canopy. Those setting looks quite good. I've noticed that I have had to use a longer exposure time going from the Anycubi Mono X 4K to the Elegoo Saturn 2. I am still waiting on the Elegoo Jupiter, but I may end up biting the bullet and getting Anycubic's Photon M3 Max, which has about a 7K resolution. What I do like about Anycubic, is that their build plate doesn't use a ball joint to level, but 4 screws, which secures it extremely well, and doesn't require leveling all the time. I know I'm going off topic, but I will probably try these settings on the Saturn 2 to see how the canopies come out on my end using the same resin you are.

The one I opened seems solid, and I don't plan on opening up the second, so I am happy for now. If it gets loose, I have ways of permanently fixing it.

Got my two today. Love the matte finish.

Can't wait to see it. I just printed two for orders, and I'm really happy with the outcome. Definitely not a beginner's kit, but seeing it put together is joy for me.

I wanna print this on the Elegoo Jupiter once it comes in. Nice and LARGE!!!

I was using a mixture of Saraya Tech Blu Clear V2 and their Tenacious brand. I also used a little bit of blue alcohol dye to eliminate any possible yellowing. The clear blu v.2 is extremely tough, while the Tenacious resin adds a bit of flexibility to it. I think my ratio is about 90% blu and 10% tenacious, but even at 80/20, that works well. I didn't put a hole in the body because of the ability to build it where parts can be interchangeable. I don't have any of those stands, so I would need to have the correct size of the hole to make for the display stands.

Well that was great for us during that slow time. It was easier getting a lot of the posters I couldn't find. I think my collecting of them has slowed quite a bit, since I haven't really had any other posters that grab me. Although, looking on this thread, it does sometimes draw me to get one I don't have here and there.

Wow, that canopy is very clear. I should send you the updated body and canopy. I've updated it quite a bit so that the rear canopy opens much easier, and I kept the "roll bar" on the main body attached. I also adjusted the size of the rear section that attaches to the main body. I'll send it all over to you. As for doing the supports for people, I don't want to do that only because based on what resin people use, it may not be feasible to use the supports I do. I also try to keep my supports medium, but keep .35mm (in general) tips and them 5mm long. That works for my printer, but it may not for older resin printers.

I need to do a video documenting my posters like that, but I first need about 3 or 4 more of those B2 poster galleries.

I can't wait to get my kit of this. It looks great.

That is one great looking Wonder Fest figure. I really want to look for that.