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Everything posted by Temjin

  1. Thanks, here's an adapter for the older Yamato base.
  2. Wow... your works are out of control awesome! Keep them coming
  3. Put SV-51 up for the test, I was surprised the adapter for YF-21 works with SV-51. So, anything that can attach to the original stand that came with SV-51 can attach to this stand.
  4. The stand cost about $85 total. The arm alone around 30, for the base $55. Yes, I will make it available for anyone to buy, and have the arm and base sold separately.
  5. Thanks Loop, those bearings really help. Without them I probably need to make the base much bigger.
  6. Display stand for YF-21, and if it works... ... . . adapters later for other VFs. I use Shapeways to do the printing, visit my shop if you into Armored Core. I have an item for sale. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/temjin-s-studio
  7. Some new parts came in, here a test on the strength of those joints.
  8. Hard to say about labor cost, everyone works differently. If just the material cost based on shapeways pricing, may be $80ish for an example 1/60 YF-19 fast pack. May be more or less, just guessing I could be wrong. Also take consideration the surfaces will be rough. There is a new material available at shapeways with smoother surfaces, but much more expansive.
  9. Don't know if people still into 3D printing, but I have been working on a display stand for 1/60 YF-21, printed some test parts and waiting for the rest from Shapeways.
  10. Not really 3D printing related, but interesting product.
  11. Good job everyone, and nice sketch, every once a while we all have to turn off the computer and quietly draw something on paper.
  12. The mecha reminds me of this, or other way around.
  13. Thanks for the info. I was looking at your new project thread last night and was thinking wouldn't it save some printing cost to have 3D printed parts to recast to resin parts. Most mecha arms and legs are identical on both sides. I have never worked with real model before, so just guessing.
  14. Update on the foot and ankle joints with a video. Earlier GU-11 mentioned about cylinder type ball joint, I found that very useful here. So, thanks to him for that! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gu_eJCXRSvU
  15. This is short couple days project. The model is from loooooog time ago, so I didn't build everything from scratch. I spend last couple days adding some simple articulation, and some joint details. For $54.14 the model is 4inches long, and 2inches tall. I can go smaller with cheaper price, but.... make it big. https://www.shapeways.com/model/1386551/m10-with-articulation.html?li=my-models&materialId=6
  16. Update on the knee joint, and the kneeling pose seems possible. One problem I have is the "U" shape bar blocking part of the upper leg, showing in the 3rd pic. The bar is already retracted upward into the torso. Hope the shoulder joint has room for that later.
  17. Cancel this movie already, and spend the money on a faithful representation of live size Ingram instead.
  18. ...and who doesn't like the first ending theme "Memories."
  19. This page has some helpful information on ball joint, you actually don't leave any space for the joint socket. http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/2238-how-to-design-snap-fit-ball-joints-for-3d-printing-with-shapeways.html Update on the model, replaced the hip universal joint with a ball joint, also added articulation on the pelvis, so the legs can move really high. If I can make the knee joints bend more than 90 degrees, a kneeling pose is possible...
  20. That's very true, a simple ball joint will do all that. Actually ball joints for the ankles might not be such a bad idea. Same here, I never used sketchup or blener before, but for 3DS Studio Max it has some good modeling tools, like mesh editing and nurbs. The interface is ok, it gets the work done, and I wouldn't call it intuitive. If you want to give it a try, I would recommend version R3.
  21. Those cannons can be troublesome, may be adding weight to the legs and have the arms non poseable. Here's a wip of the hip joint, It's more of a universal joint. I will try to avoid using ball joint, because of the fitting issue. Hinge joint seems more predictable, if it doesn't fit, just sand it down.
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