Valkyrie addict

QFT!!!!

WOW! that 1A has seen some serious action, love the torn arm nice Millia VF-11... I was pondering doing one myself but to a VF-4...

wonder what are the 5 sticks pins/antennas atop the decal sheets for?

HAHAHAHA!!! now tht I wasn't expecting, nice find

woa, they gave Minmei slightly more boobs! ehehehe, i concur... the vf-171 EX alto is pure win...

nah....

wel..the GNU got weathered pretty quickly, but still were exclusives... perhaps the Tomahawk will get lucky too

it's funny, now that I remember, I was once drooling over the toynami MPC's, found by chance a 1/60 VF-1S v1.0 and wanted to know which one was better until I found this forum and got into the light

it's amazing how with time and technology things get better and better....I can't even fathom in 10 more years, what will the VF-1 toys look like... yeah, you can bet your ass that in 10 more years the we'll still be getting more VF-1's, hahahaha

so Graham, the GNU line sold pretty well then for Yamato to start making the VF-1S, will they be making other lines from other macross series!? wink wink

what are you guys expecting, it's a transforming model, of course there are going to be gaps, have you seen the Yamato toys PF valks, a complete gap fest... I think Bandai did a great job and the gaps are virtually impossible to avoid in transforming toys, if you don't want gaps, locked in fighter mode putty, fill, sand and presto, ahhaha can't wait to get this one on my hands

I'd definately get it.... since the VF-17 gets no love from model companies... and Bandai needs to redeem themselfs from their chunky 1/55 VF-17, they must do it I'd find it silly for Bandai to only make 1/60 of the VF-25, they have to make the whole line (like those damn Gundams), of course, if their 1/60 DX turns out to be crap...they better save it hahaha

dude, don't waste your money on it, 30+ for a limited piece of plastic that can't hold the valk right get the clear stands most of us have from Lost and Found Toys, they really are the best and if you're clever enough you can get some sick poses out of it

ok, sorry to be a pain about this, I know we're beating this to death and Graham already send pics to Yamato about this well, since I've been trying to glue back the piece that broke from the hinge with no success, I was able to take a good look about what might happened and what I've concluded that the piece breaks by a series of combined factors, but the main problem is that the shoulder is too tight now, let's get technical . . IN HERE YOU CAN SEE HOW THE HINGE IS ARRANGE; 1 IS THE HINGE -- 2 IS THE METAL PIN -- 3 IS THE BAR THAT PIVOTS -- 4 IS THE LIMIT WHERE THE HINGE HOUSES WHEN LOCKED FOR BATTROID NOTICE THAT THE PIN IS THICKER IN THE DISTAL END, PROBABLY FOR THE PIN TO NOT SLIDE, THE PIN (PIECE NO.2) ITSELF APPEARS TO BE GLUED TO PIECE 3 AND THE HINGE (PIECE 1) IS WHAT MOVES, SO ESSENTIALLY WHEN YOU MOVE THE HINGE TO POSITION THE SHOULDER, PIECE 2 AND 3 ARE STATIC AND PIECE 1 IS WHAT MOVES ABOUT THE THICKER DISTAL END ON PIECE 2, NOTICE THAT THANKS TO THAT, PIECE 1 IS MORE NARROW ARROUND IT, LESS PLASTIC TO SUPPORT, MORE FRAGILE . . NOW IN HERE, WHEN YOU APPLY FORCE TO PIECE 1 UPWARD, MOST OF THE FORCE WILL BE FOCUSED ON THE CIRCLED AREA, BUT THIS DOESN'T SEEM TO BE THE PROBLEM . . NOW IF YOU APPLY FORCE DOWNWARD PIECE 1 SUFFERS A LOT ON THE CIRCLED AREA THAT APPEARS TO BE THE MOST FRAGILE BIT OF PIECE 1 . . ANOTHER THING, WHEN POSITIONING THE HINGE ON TRANSFORMATION, NOTICE ON PIECE 4, THERE'S A TAB WHICH PREVENTS THE SHOULDER TO DROOP DOWN ON BATTROID, THE PIECE CIRCLED ACTUALLY STANDS OUT AND IF YOU'RE NOT CAREFUL THE TAB FROM 4 WILL CLASH WITH THE WEAKEST AREA OF PIECE 1 MAKING IT MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO BREAKAGE . . NOW WHAT APPEARS TO HAVE HAPPENED TO ME, IS THAT WHEN I WAS TRANSFORMING TO BATTROID, WHEN POSITION THE HIP BAR IN PLACE, IT PUSHED PIECE 1 AGAINST THE HOUSING OF 4, MAYBE MY PIECE WAS CRACKED AT THE MOMENT AND THE EXTRA PRESSURE MADE THE PART BUCKLE AND BREAK Now, what I think the problem is, essentially whenever you move the hinge on transformation, the weak part of the hinge gets stressed, but in essence it should hold, until you start to move the arm, the extra tightness of the shoulder applies extra pressure on the hinge, since it's the right arm that holds the gunpod, whenever we play with it this is the arm we move the most to pose (probably why there have been no left arm breakage reported yet), remember that the metal pin is glued so it doesn't move with the hinge, so essentially the only piece that actually moves is the plastic hinge, all the pressure is directly to only that slender piece of plastic until it eventually breaks now what I think would have prevented is that the thick part of the pin be up instead of down getting thicker plastic on the downward edge that gets stressed the most and for the pin to move with the hinge thus the energy would be transfered to the hinge and pin when moving it well, that's my analysis...hope everyone understand this, feel free to add any corrections or extra stuff you might want, thanks...

oh, hahaha, thanks...didn't knew we had a game section on the main page, usually check the model/toys and magazines, hehehe YUCK!!!!! those VF-4 schemes are disgustingly uninspired, guess I'll come up with my own... thanks Azrael

haha...good question, there is no love for her... guess Ai Kun is 'special' hahaha, will wait for the end of the serious and then ask a sh!tload of unanswered question... mmm...I got a non-Frontier related question I never played any of the macross dreamcast and PS games, I think I read here that Max and Millia get to pilot some VF-4's, did their valks had the usual blue for max and red for millia scheme?? if so, anyone got any image of it...

HAHAHA!!! priceless complaining from us on MWF....

hi there... 1. Most people like to use superglue, others use model cement that melts the plastic fusing them toguether and also saving themself having to puty the seam and just sand 2. Absolutely best way to paint a model is by airbrushing, type of paint depends what's your taste, acrylics or enamels 3. Usually adding a coat of paint on the joint before assembling makes it a bit tighter, but in time it will wear, models are mostly to remain static and handle very little, in the end, they are very delicate... you made very simple and vague questions my friend, there's a lot more to modelling, you should really scour this section of the forum, you will find most of the info you need to learn to model, but no matter how much you read about it, only way to do it right is to practice a lot good luck! EDIT: oh yeah, I forgot, you got Hasegawas, those are great kits, but I suggest you get yourself some cheap imai or bandai macross kits and practice with them before you do the hasegawas, the added experience on this cheap kits will make you value the great details of the hases

I got a question... any idea on how exactly the Vajra evolve...there's something I don't understand Ai kun was first the cute little worm, then he turned into a flying stinray and then to the Michael murderer huge ass form and perhaps will later turn to the red lobster but errr...on episode 13, when Alto and Ranka are on the forest and get scared by the mini vajra, it looks a lot like big Ai Kun... so, is this a different breed or what, they do have a few slight differences

Sheryl is a more believable character with a background and things people can identify with Ranka is just a plain boring FAST pack, as person, Ranka is just cute, nothing more...too young, maybe an older Ranka with more character would make her more popular

I don't like prequels.... as much as I would like a second season, if it wasn't plan then the thing would just drag on with no proper plot I think the best bet are OVA's of a new breed of renegade Galaxy type anarchist cyborg enhanced full grown zentradi on a plan to overthrow the UN Spacy and bring back the goold old days of the Zentradi...

heeeeeeeeeey, THAT would be a great idea, we should try that...of course, we all know that HKR MKII would win for building it in 1.5 days and Wm Cheng would win for making it look better than the anime itself...

I was in love with my VF-1S v2 until it broke, I enjoy the extra articulation and tightness, Yamato did a great job, but it's so annoying that such a thing can happen, I'm still thinking of getting myself a second VF-1S....but I have postponed that purchase until Graham gets some info about the breakage from Yamato... in the meantime, I haven't given it much effort, but I can't find a way to fix my broken hinge yet... been busy but something I noticed is that the metal pin exactly where the plastic breaks is thicker (I imaged that this acts as a base for the plastic hinge to house in and not slide trough when assembling) making the plastic around it thinner and perhaps more brittle compared to the other edge...

looking at the sprues on those pictures, every piece has it's color, like the Gundam snap kits, but HLJ, has it mark as a skill 3 model, hmmm... it'd be amazed if the thing actually comes panel lined...

I'm definitely sold! love the knife!