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PvtPrivate

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Cannon Fodder

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  1. The arm peg issue is even worse than thought. Back when I got my VF-1J, I discovered they get blocked from pegging in when the backpack is in place. The backpack flap is too long and pushes the arm away from the peg. So even IF the arms pegs in securely, it physically can't XD You have to do the elbow trick either way.
  2. I wonder if sealing it with a UV blocking topcoat will help it from returning back to yellow 🤔
  3. Peroxide bleaching is unfortunately not permanent. In my experience they will go back yellowing after about 1-2 months, tried on a Yamato VF-1, Yamato VF-22S, DX YF-30, DX VF-25, all turned yellow again. It does help on severe sun damage though, at least it only goes back to slightly yellow not sunburnt dark orange. Also please do not use UV light, what peroxide bleaching actually needs is the HEAT, not the UV light. We already have cases of UV burns and partial blindness because of unsafe retrobrighting setups that use UV lights.
  4. Darn, that is a lot of work and glue to fight through. Another issue of mine is the one that broke is the VF-19S's shoulder, which does not have the pin to open the speaker >.< I did manage to repair it eventually though, using CA glue, sloppily, but hey it holds together and is mostly hidden anyway. Thank you for replying and for the images!
  5. So far its only a problem for the original Yamato VF-19 Kai, Later releases (VF-19S/F/P) fixed the elbow shatter issue, but may still have the shoulder shatter issue as its a design problem. Be careful when handling the shoulders, especially when popping them off from the legs. That's how i snapped mine. When trying to rotate the arm at the shoulder, move the pauldrons down, pinch both edges securely, then rotate. Do not rotate the shoulder pauldron when it is angled up. Or just don't touch them, ever, and leverage the arm to rotate it.
  6. My shoulder hinge finally cracked :') I am sorry to ask again, but how did you take apart the shoulder? Its hard to repair it with the shoulder still attached.
  7. I guess they no longer do this, if at all XD
  8. Yup, its not retail release here, at least not in Indonesia. It is being treated exactly like a P-Baindai item, the difference is that they can sell it overseas, unlike the VT-1.
  9. Been mulling over this for a while, which do you think would be better, Gloss or Matte finish?
  10. Its a Premium Bandai release 🙃 My local shop will usually open PO for retail items, which includes all the previous WWM releases, at the pre-order date at retail price (price is exactly as listed on tamashi web). Once they have fulfilled the PO, they will then stock the items in their stores (but with store markup). This release they have also opened a PO, but it looks like it won't be a retail release. The price is different, it is no longer 1:1 of the yen price (about 29% more expensive), and it just looks like any other P-Bandai PO where they imported it directly from Japan instead of waiting for the global retail shipment.
  11. Oh, how did you detach the shoulder? Mine had a crack on the arm attachment
  12. Decided to necro this instead of starting a new thread. For those who have similar broken arms and are trying to take apart the arm, you might have noticed even after removing the 2 screws you still can't pull apart the arm. This is because of a hidden knurled pin acting as a 3rd screw. Just gently slowly pull apart the arms until it pops off, note its very stuck together because the end of the pin is knurled. After its off, i sanded the knurled bit on mine a little bit to make assemble/disassembly easier.
  13. I don't think they have the TV arm super parts. Their max and miria VF-1J Super also used DYRL arms
  14. More video on the KOs chest connection problem: (6:55) Look at that thing flop
  15. Yeah, the KO VF-1 was my first ever V2 VF-1, and since the KOs does not include any instructions whatsoever, naturally used @jenius's transformation videos. When I get to gerwalk to battroid I panicked HARD, because following the usual method of popping the chest off like in @jenius's video does not work. Eventually i pulled down the entire chest until SNAP, it finally pegged off. The panic and worry of thinking i broke the toy... Eventually I disassembled the entire valk and found all the issues i mentioned, currently trying to fix all the issues + repainting. When I get it assembled again I might do a video highlighting and demonstrating the issues with it.
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