MechTech

Thanks MilSpex! UPDATE 15 OCTOBER 08 Still working on that same ceiling bit and the floor covering piece going above it. Cutting out the side strips. The side light strips (each one of these takes hours to do, but they're bright and LIGHT weight). Take a good look, this may be the last time you see under the floor outcrop. I made nine mecha access doors as in this drawing (left side), only one will actually be open. Building the screw drive to make the overhead crane traverse (see yellow crane in line art, Sept 20) Still working away! - MT

It IS a BIG helo for what it is supposed to do. I've looked at doing one in 1/200. Four oversized engines for what? You can only go so fast in a rotory wing aircraft before the blades stall; that's why there's the v-22 Osprey tilt rotor. Oh well, it's just an animated idea - right!?

AIRBRUSHES - I've used Badger for decades. Nice and robust. I also have a single action Aztec for doing basic work like coats. The chngeable tips are easy to clean. COMPRESSORS - You get what you pay for! Make sure you have an air trap and regulator on whatever you get - especially in humid enviroments. As long as it has a tank on it, the pulses you normally get from basic compressors will be stopped. - MT

Alright, I'm gonna have to say "yes." With all that good stuff AND ordnance, how could I say no. I'll keep it at work and tell everyone it's the Apache's replacement People see my Hase boxart Super VF-1S poster at work and think IT'S real... - MT

I'm 8 hours ahead and will sometimes get on MW in the middle of the night (prime time you're time). I rarely have any problems and I'm making twice as many network hops to get to the server (assuming it in CA). You may have local connectivity issues. - MT

UPDATE 5 OCTOBER 08 It's been a busy but blessed week! Not much work done directly on the ship, but I got other materials and gear. I shopped some more and found/ordered these: http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/storepr...ctoverview5.htm they have videos as well on Youtube for the 7mm version. Tell me these aren't cool! They will power my bridge/mast affects, overhead cranes, and other cool stuff! I got some of the bigger motors too. I want to R/C one of the 1/200 Monsters I have. One of the larger size will fit into the feet and an old micro car R/C unit will work perfect. Went to the local thrift store and found a medical nebulizer air pump for only $2/1£ ! It has enough pressure to airbrush (tested it) and its quiet (full ball bearing guts - you know I looked inside). For about the same price I bought an old scanner for the cables, belt and connectors. All those scanner parts new would have cost ten times that! That's how the Daedalus is built, with a tight budget (and people who don't want their junk anymore ). I finished the first half of the mecha bay lighting (the thicker side). The thinner side is next. The LEDs are the same 3mm type bought from Christmas stuff on sale last year-cheaper than buying them unwired. Here's one strip lit up to give you an idea. When I finish the other side's lighting, I'm on to the overhead crane that traverses this part. On to the smaller lights... - MT

Looking at real planes and what their panel lines look like, you've got it spot on! All aircraft have some dirt on them. Now you just need some fuel spills underneath for the full affect! - MT

OK, what everybody else said and...this is something that drives me nuts too! You're not alone. The Bandai Votoms kits are awesome in several aspects that the sprue ends are on the INSIDE of the seam! Genius! NO MARKS when cut flush. I wish ALL kits could be like that. Flush cutters make all the difference in the world like Miriya said (he won't be much of a newbee at the rate he is going). Make sure they are sharp. Don't be cutting wire with them as when they dull, they pull the plastic away. LEAVE A LITTLE ON, THEN if you have room, slice the remnant off with a razor blade. Sand off the rest carefully; or just do the whole seem. As an alternative, leave a little tab on the parts, cleaning the mating edges so they fit smoothly and glue (or snap). Then clean up the edges all together by sanding down the whole area. I NEVER paint a model if I can help it. Chipping sucks. I always cover a marked / marred area with like color paint similar to what was said before. I've gone as far as splotching a whole model with similar color and it simulates dirt and wear great! Less pastel work needed and very realistic. Scratches show up less too. A clear coat helps cover the FINE scratches as mentioned earlier. Hope that helps. The alternative is counseling which costs way too much - MT

Judging by the quarter, they are 1/200. They have better details than the Nichimo kits in some places, and inaccuracies in others. A little work and they would be great. It's too bad the tomahawk has such blah weapons detail in the chest. The Defender looks better (from what I can see). The cannon on it are more realistic in dimension. Let me know what you want to do. - MT

Another "chunky monkey" mod. Good choice of colors and everything is nice and white instead of yellowed. Keep us updated. - MT

Thanks Jarrod for going to all the trouble!!! Awesome review and photos (great build too)! I'm sure you're adding to the sales and hysteria of the kit (when available ). - MT

That looks great. The color scheme is interesting. Now you have to do one with a British flag to REALLY test your skills (they look good on Mini's) - MT

Ron - that looks great despite the poor sculpting. I'll build mine...someday! Noyhauser - interesting mix of missiles! The US Navy could scale bacl their planes with that kind of armament! - MT

Some of us need like 20 of a kit so we can fill up a massive model of the Daedalus. I get seconds to make various versions. Other kits I purchase just for parts! Don't worry, no Macross kits will be harmed I'll work on getting some pictures up. - MT

The Gunny obviously HATES the Hase kits ! Let's just say I have a walk in closet full of models and a few clothes (my half). I can only wear one thing at a time anyhow . I keep my kits in giant plastic boxes to protect and easily move them around. The last two moves were easy! Just grab and go! - MT

HLJ is back to nearly taking orders, just like I thought: http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Dis=2&Mac...p;SeriesID=3659 The discontinued thing was temporary. November 30th orders a possibility. Some people have complained, but they've been great, even crediting a mistake on my behalf. In fact, the last order I placed had two items back ordered (yellow status). A week later they shipped still showing same status online. They may be having database problems compounded by our thirst for VF-25s! - MT You know, overall this whole situation is great! Frustrating for those who want a kit NOW, but good news in the long run! If I was in production, I'd be yelling out, "double the production run" to my crew! That's probably what they're doing. I bet they were also tooling up for the other variants and didn't expect to sell their first run so fast of the first version! - MT Yellowlightman loses points for torturing everyone

Yeah, I saw that too! Talk about non-cannon - MT

Thanks Cache (and welcome). About ten for now (just to populate the front half). Let me know what you have in mind. UPDATE 29 SEPTEMBER 08 Not many pictures, but A LOT of work. You saw the edges last time, this time its the top and bottoms for those same sections. The bottom is full of lights and access panel-ladders. The top will have a crane on it. You can see the slots I've tediously cut out on the lower section. Next come thick strips of clear styrene. Theyt actually protrude through the floor enough to look light strip flourescent lighting units. They are glued to thin clear styrene to hold them all together. LEDs bought on sale after Christmas last year (3mm diameter) line it. Next job is to wire and trim the excess. The LEDs are nice "true white" colored. The destroids sit under them so good lighting is important. That's it for now. More light strips to make... - MT

revelation 1 - Welcome! You're best bet for ordering anything from Japan/Hong Kong is trackable. It costs about half the cost of the kit on average, but you have to ask yourself how much you want it in one piece. When ordering from HLJ.com, I always use EMS: http://www.hlj.com/hlj_shipping.html Surface can take long and the longer your package travels, the more it will get squashed - about a month later! - MT

That's cool! Thanks for sharing; the family thought it was cool too. My wife asked if I'm putting the Daedalus on top of my mini-van . Toynami made it huh? I wonder if we can pre-order one !? - MT

Thanks UN Spacy for the video! Those that guessed the coupled hand piece holds the arms together in jet mode win bonus points! Can you say slow and painfull! Kawamori's designs get more complex as he gets older instead of visa-versa. I thought the -19 series was bad. And to think, it only takes a split second in the anime - MT

Thanks, but 3D printing (and in quantity) is expensive; Cobywan is right. I would have never considered it for that reason. Plus I don't have the file made or software/time to do it. The best way to go is modify a kit (fix several flaws) and cast the new parts. Decals will be fun to make up too(in that size). I can't find the Nichimo kits anymore except the occasional overpriced one-offs. Nichimo's site doesn't have any news on re-released kits except for ships. - MT

I haven't seen the part, but I'm guessing the JB weld is thick. If so, you can make a "squash mold." Instead of pouring the compound into the mold, you fill the two halves to overflow with the compound and squash them together (being careful to maintain shape). I've done it several time with various parts that didn't want to mold the regular way. If you think you'll have to go metal, your silicone molds will work for that too! Silicone is usually good up to 400 degrees F on the average (results may vary ). - MT

You can buy the Gundam MSM-04 Acguy, it was in Macross F (as a toy) The Glaug is a pain to clean up. Painting the white on the darker parts is tough the first time too! - MT

Yep, looks like the models page needs more old school goodness! - MT