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Nice to see you're tackling kits again. I also came back after about a 20 year break. With these modern Bandai kits, there is really not much effort or skill required. You're paint looks great. Spray cans can still go a long way, even for people who prefer to airbrush. Take a look at what I did with my little 1/1000. Hope you like it.

Whoaaaaa! You've been busy dude. Show us the WIP on this behemoth.

I like it!

I'm all in. The Rick figure looks pretty much perfect to me. Minmei is only so-so: I think they could have done better with the face and shoes. But overall, these are a dream come *almost* true... And soooo much better than the Toynamis.

Nice to see lots of Valks in progress! Herve, that's a really nice finish. Lovely colors and nose work, especially the checkers.

Hey Xigfrid. I would be interested to see a video to illustrate at this stage what is and what is not working in different modes. Looks like you will need more adjustments and reprints. It sucks to have to spend more, but I guess you cant really expect such a complex model to come together with the first prototype.

I've learned that those capacitors have important uses with Arduino to control power surges. You know I have no real electric circuit knowledge, everything I do with Arduino is off the shelf, like wiring for dummies. You don't need a lot of skill to make it work. A lot of tutorials advise putting a capacitor on neopixel leds and servo motors to steady the current and avoid burnout or overload/reset. So a question for you real techies: do you need a separate capacitor for each object connected to the Arduino for surge protection, or would one capacitor on the main +- protect everything? And going even further, would putting the capacitor right on the battery that leads into the Arduino protect everything? The thing is, when used just for protection, you can't really tell if the capacitor is doing anything or not.

I'm planning to cover this to a VF-1J Hikaru scheme with an extra set of decals I have. Any reason why I can't,? I accidentally ordered a VF-1J Clear version, and I have no interest in building it, because the parts are all the brittle clear parts, not the soft styrene, which makes it difficult to drill and customize.

Yes, those N52s are strong. But I learned that they can still swivel when you dont want them to. So keep that in mind when choosing the size.

Well I cant' putty or paint worth crap anyway, but I prefer to keep the models details rather than a perfectly sanded seam.

Well, you're really good at it! I especially admire your priming skills. But take it easy there, you're losing those panel lines and rivets, Probably @NZEOD wanted your gears.

It's a work of art. I would say it's perfect. I grew up as a fan of the Black Tigers in the original series. They stole every scene with their slick black and yellow uniforms.

Some fun with servos and magnets.

Ha. Very true. It's for the kids, so the more bling the better. But I do like some bling myself...

Some fun with LEDs. This is the standard built-in Neopixel sketch.

Awesome!!! If it's under USD200, I'm in. Did you come up with the transformation, or did you base it on another garage kit? BTW, does the new Shapeways option to create shells (to reduce cost) work with your parts?

Awesome work. Always amazing. You've developed a unique talent.

Love your old planes (and your Yamato builds)

Is there more evidence that retailers are actually getting new stocks?

Ok. So how many here are still holding out hope for the Kairos? I'm one. If one of us complain to Paypal, it wont really teach NY a lesson, and NY will close my account. So when you all give up, we need to complain on the same day Lets take a count.

Exactly. I hope I am wrong, but we are being conned... They take the money with a promise, then they change terms, then say the money is gone, but if you wait maybe you get what you want, then passive aggressiveness and silence. It is not a big deal over a toy, but don't fall for this when your livelihood is on the line.

We are being scammed...

Hold everything. I need to see this. Kiwi accent? Even better. --------- After viewing: Great video, lots of fun. My thoughts are, first of all, sorry to tell you, but I think you've lost most of your Kiwi accent in London Regarding the incorrect-sized holes that you made, you might thicken them with some nail lacquer to get a tighter fit. I hadn't realized you based the transformation on the Halfeye kit. But it makes sense seeing it, because it definitely has the Halfeye look. I think you have made an improvement with the 3Dd designed screw holes. That's why I avoid fiddly transforming resin kits, because drilling those screws is a disaster. I am shocked that you went from designing a rectangular wallet, to this complex beast. I really don't know how you made the jump, unless you were a designer to start with. It occurred to me that you must be unreasonably passionate about Macross 7 to be inspired to go through this (As for me, I only liked the music and Fleet of the Strongest Women). But nothing gets accomplished without passion, right? Thanks for sharing,,, and looking forward to your work on more of the neglected designs! After everything you learned, I am sure you will make more improvements on playability for your next project, and adding more clearance for paint layers during movement.

The WeCheer is exactly the same as the Dremel. If you have the little silver collet that works in the Dremel, you insert that in the WeCheer. There are different size collets from 0.3mm-3.2mm bit size. So for example, if you are drilling with a 0.3mm bit, then you need to use the minimum size collet. You can use all the Dreml bits in the WeCheer, but you also need a range of collet sizes.

How did your resin kit cause that exactly? I like seeing the closeups of this kit. Keep 'em coming.