Valkyrie Hunter D

But the longer you resist, the stronger it gets!

Kinda blurry, but I love this pose:

The countdown is over!

Yamato 1/48: $120 Fast Pack accessory kit: $54 Display stand: $25 Finally getting a picture perfect Hikaru VF-1S Strike Valk: Priceless

How many episodes was AF involved with?

I always thought he would make a better Joker than a Batman, but Jack Nicholson was pretty good at it. As for Joel Schumacher, what he did with the Dark Knight is unforgivable. His Batman movies make the the 60's tv series look good. Having seen him in Equilibrium and American Psycho, I think Chritian Bale could pull off a young, brooding Bruce Wayne.

I don't think my query is appropriate for your thread, A7. I'm asking for help on identifying a specific title, not a critique of it. But wow, this show doesn't familiar to anyone? The character design definitely had some Disney influence to it with the Juliet character looking like a Disney-esque fairy. I wish I could tell more about this movie, but that's really all I can remember. I think my folks were a little unnerved watching it with me because there was even some brief nudity in it

I usually have no problem remembering shows I liked but this one has always bugged me. I have no clue about its title nor do I remember any character names, but its story is very familiar. This movie was an animated fantasy tale I saw during the early eighties, like around 1981 or 1982 (on betamax!). It was basically a retelling of Romeo and Juliet with Romeo being a member of a race that lived underwater. I'm not even sure if the movie was an anime, it could very well have been a European or American production. But this show really stuck in my head because it was the first time I saw animated characters kiss and die tragic deaths, making me realize how cool cartoons can really be. Does this show ring a bell for anyone?

Wow, I should've checked this thread earlier. That is some astounding work, I would've loved to hear about his technique.

Yow, that is one big honkin kit. Looks good so far, and I can't wait to see the detailing on that tub.

I caught a couple of episodes on CN as well, and I had a good time with it. A mix of giant robot shtick and and a mundane environment. And to top it all off, no whiny mech pilots, just a dude who's all too eager to kick some ass. I'm definitely gonna see more of this show.

Great news, I loved FM3 although I don't know if I can rack up another total of 250+ hrs. for this installment (or for any other game for that matter). But then again, seeing an enemy Wanzer crumple into a heap after being slammed by giant brass knuckles is pretty damn satisfying.

I'm curious as to what Hasegawa's photo etched parts for their valks consist of. I don't think I've seen a kit utilize these parts yet. Do they really make that much a visual difference?

I'm gonna probably get it just so I could have one more black box for my "fort".

Thanks, A7, I can't wait either. Isamu, the only fine details this kit has are the panel lines and the etchings in the cockpit. Its seriously lacking in the detail dept. I even had to get my own decals and cut up my own mini-exhaust nozzles.

DH, I’m going to stick with the mottled look with mixed panels of matte black and titanium. The titanium is going to come from the Testors Metallizer line. Can anyone share with me what they use to buff the Metallizers with once you spray it on? I figured a plain terry cloth would work, but there might be something better to use. Shown below is a comparison shot. The valk is also on an elevated plane on level with the Firefox.

One week later, I’m left with a low-visibility Firefox, woo-hoo! Well, not really, it’s just the last primer coat, but at least everything’s smoothed out and in one piece now. The removal of the cockpit masking will probably be the last step. After much testing, I’ve found the white metal landing gear can be installed without folding in on itself, and that’s the next step.

Just a follow-up for this thread from the old boards: http://www.macrossworld.com/cgi-bin/mwf/ik...=ST;f=17;t=5586 As shown below, the canards and wings have been successfully pinned. Some stiff bristles from a hairbrush were used as pins for the canards, and trimmed metal rods were used to pin the wings. After drilling the appropriate holes, canards and wings were super-glued to the main body. A lot of filling and sanding still had to be done though to fill the gaps.

Let's see, right off the bat: -Better mechanism for front wheel deployment, one that wouldn't cause a gap in the cockpit assembly. -Better stickers, sheets that are thinner ans less apt to peel. -Yeah, bigger hands would be a good idea. That's about it for me, and yes, the 1S head seam doesn't bother me in the least.

Try out www.figures.com, they're usually on top of any domestic Kaiyodo releases.

Yeah, I wish Yamato chose a better method of keeping the front wheels locked. I've been thinking of a way to add some bumps on the front landing gear door that could lock into some dimples carved into the sides of the wheel well once the gear has been lowered. BTW, only my DYRL valks have the nose seam prob, the low-vis' seam is neglegible.

I'd be interested in the F-14. The Cyclone girl is cute though.

The parts that need to be looked at are the wheel assembly and the underside of the pilot seat. The areas highlighted in red are the surfaces that could be sanded to reduce the gap in the nose when the wheels are down. It’s just a matter of sanding the right amount to attain the smallest gap possible (or none at all) and get enough grip for the wheels to stay in place when lowered. The cockpit area can be assembled separately to see if the sanded amount is just right. If it’s not enough, just take it apart and repeat. One of my 1/48s actually had the opposite problem: the front wheels were too loose when lowered. It could support the valk just fine, but rolling it forward would make it take a nose dive. Anyways, I hope this helps.

Once the screws are removed, the parts shown below will easily come apart. Be careful of the pegs inside the hatch assembly (the hinged pegs used to cover up the holes for the leg posts), they may fall out.

It’s not too hard to take apart the cockpit area, but here it goes: First, remove the nosecone and raise the wheels. Lift open the nose hatch where the leg posts go. Remove the three screws highlighted by the red squares. Be sure to use a large screwdriver so the screws won’t be stripped.