David Hingtgen

DOA XBV2 is much worse, if you can believe it. That's quite high on my list of "I want those minutes of my life back".

That model is incorrect for *any* Jolly Rogers scheme. Though which scheme could determine "totally wrong" vs "slightly wrong". (For $230, I'd demand either "perfect" or "only very, very, slightly wrong")

Last of the Mohicans?

Isn't that an adaptation of the movie, not the other way 'round?

I specifically said Fellowship of the Ring, not the whole LOTR. That book was boring. I'd read the Hobbit when I was 10 or 12 or so and loved it, and a year or two later I found Fellowship in the school library--I don't think I ever finished it. A few years later I found the Hobbit/LOTR 4-pack cheap and bought it, vowing to finish LOTR. I did and enjoyed LOTR on the whole, but still struggled through FOTR. As for Jurassic Park---nope, I definitely thought the book was better.

I'll start off with "Last of the Mohicans" due to it being *way* better than the book. Another that comes to mind is "Fellowship of the Ring".

"Fight fight fight, hiss hiss hiss, the Sheryl and Ranka movie!"

Ok, I know leaded pump nozzles are physically incapable of fitting into an unleaded-only fill tube, to prevent things like this. Diesel nozzles though, will fit?

I'd so watch an Iron Woman movie:

Just got an answer to my lower airbrake question: http://www.fighting118th.com/wp-content/up...7/newf14-10.jpg Still, I'm most curious about the paint scheme, as all the popular/famous ones will not work on this mold, honestly. (I'd snag the Black Knights' anniversary scheme maybe, but that's about it for a late-era A model)

I actually had no real problems until the server was reset recently. Now, it's getting worse every day. Got another "IPS driver error" message once.

They were disabled on the A model, not removed. And it was years after service entry when it happened. Only later versions physically lack them. Still, it is pointless for them to be on this model, as they were permanently locked shut by the era this mold depicts. They should be nothing more than an engraved line, not a separate part (which leads to gaps and seams).

Gah, I might be too late, but just in case: Ask if the lower speedbrakes open too! Having just the upper one open is wrong---it'd be like having just the nosegear retractable, and not ALL the landing gear. F-14s have 3 speedbrakes, not 1--and the pilot can't pick which to deploy---they all go or none do. Also please point out that physically, it's a 1995+ F-14A, and wholly unsuitable for any 1970's or 1980's paint scheme.

Too shiny? Not shiny enough. I want chromed everything. The real thing's chromed! (real as in the Peterbilt they film). Complaining that "chrome is too shiny" and doesn't look right to represent the real truck's chrome is kind of like saying "that real wood used for that model ship's deck looks too woody---imitation wood-look vinyl would be better".

I still think Mylene's valk should work better in 3D than most--mainly because it's so curved---the entire fuselage, wings etc are are "funkily shaped" in order to accomodate the "feminine" battroid mode. The battroid mode dictates the shape of the fighter, not the other way around. This is also a good time to link to one of Polidread's latest drawings: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...st&p=770977

I'd rather Yamato do Mylene's valk than any other at this point.

Definitely far hotter than I go. I go "warm" at most usually.

Today I just let them sit in the sun to warm up a bit. In my experience, how full the can is has a greater effect than heating up the paint. Or maybe people heat them up a lot more than I do.

I think we all saw it a few days ago, since it was headlined at most of the major TF sites. Anyways---for 1/4 that price, you can get stripes that actually match BB's. http://www.vinylgraphics.net/shopexd.asp?id=4651 Then your yellow Camaro will look like this: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26328 Then you can laugh at all the people who spent a grand to have their car NOT look as much like BB as yours does.

Just got done. Overall--inconsistent. Some parts dried quickly to a very gloss finish with only a single light (yet opaque) coat. Some parts with 2 quite wet coats never got much beyond semi-gloss. I think it's more of a raw atomization thing than anything--droplets are too big. Generally---applying over bare plastic leads to a thinner and smoother finish, than applying over the factory glossy paint. I'm reluctant to re-do the nose cone, I plan to let it dry for a LONG time, then see how the tailfins match. I want the nose cone and tailfins to match, so if the tailfins (which have a factory finish much like the nosecone) turn out the same way as the nosecone did, I'll leave the nosecone as-is. But if the tailfins turn out very glossy for some reason, then I'll have to try another coat on the nosecone. I'd like ALL the black parts to have an identical finish, but if I must I'll have some parts semi-gloss and some really glossy---all I demand is that the nose and tail match in the end. Tailfins aren't ready to be painted yet--have some cutting to do. But when they are ready, I'm switching to my brand-new can, for max pressure.

A lot of the new figs are "close, but not enough for me to buy"---mainly all the new planes. Give me either real planes, or totally fake (but cool-looking and well-proportioned) ones. Semi-deformed parodies of existing planes aren't very appealing. As for Mudflap--why couldn't Skids be that good? I just plain like Skids' colors a lot better. And WTF at putting Simmons with Mudflap---I'm pretty sure he drove Skids at the end.

Don't forget its spin-off, Count Duckula.

Isn't "Ninja Assassin" redundant?

"IPS Driver error. It appears there is a problem with the database"

Actually it's quite well-known in the US, due to Nickelodeon.