David Hingtgen

Hmmmn. I'm decent at shooters, but suck at any rythym/music game...

I bet China can build a LOT of J-10s in the next 20 years, to sell to many countries... (the J-10 looks better every time there's an update---I don't know if it'll eat F-35s for breakfast yet, but it's developing into a serious threat)

I don't believe either, really. In short, IMHO: The F-22 is everything it's supposed to be, and all around truly kicks ass. Expensive? Yes, but you get what you pay for, and its costs are now fixed. If you buy one now, you know exactly what you're getting and know exactly how much it'll cost. F-35? Doesn't seem to be nearly as good as it was supposed to be, and is costing a whole lost more that it was supposed to. And the price will only go up. Buy one now, and you can only HOPE it can do what you need it to, and you HOPE you will be able to afford the final price. And you're still paying almost as much as if you'd just bought a Raptor. (and a whole lot more than if you'd bought a late-model anything else) Stealth? Its internal carriage is piddly, so you're going to have to have external weaps most of the time anyways. So why pay for something you'll rarely be able to use? Buy 2 Block 60 Vipers instead. "F-35 will be weaponless and stealthy for first-day ops, then unstealthy when the skies are safe". Yeah? How do you plan on making the skies safe? Better have a bunch of F-22s to clear out the Super Flankers and J-10s. Then you could just send in masses of cheap F-16s... That brings up a point---SEAD. There's a huge need to take out the SAM sites early on in a war, but we really don't have any steathy SEAD platforms AFAIK---the HARM is too big to be carried internally. We need a smaller HARM that an F-22/35 can carry internally, to approach SAM sites undetected.

And they already posted the response claiming the Post's numbers are BS last week: http://www.f-16.net/news_article3622.html

Got my MP TC even more apart than it already is---I got the "boobs" off! Now I can not only swap them left/right, but repaint them--as removing their pin actually makes that entire area come apart--so I can paint the parts individually, and not gum up all the joints. So my current plan is now to paint all the "gunmetal" areas silver. Not sure if I'm going to keep the blue stripes on the "boobs"---I could mask them off fairly easily, but it would leave a paint line/ridge due to build-up, and I was never very fond of them anyways. Tried again (and again) but still can't get the intakes off. I got the pin to move, but it's "center-knurled" I think, and it'd probably destroy the cockpit to get the pin all the way out. I'm just going to have to mask and pray when I paint them. I found a crack in the left shoulder joint when I got the chest apart---it's either a factory crack, or a crack from transformation stresses (the few times I've done it). MP seekers always have 'issues' with their arms aligning in jet mode--I figure it might have been from forcing the arm to align or something----the crack's along a DIFFERENT pin-hole, not the one I removed. Did get a little crack in the hinged cod-piece, think that one IS my fault from removing the pin though...

And for all that, it's really not very good. Graham reviewed it.

Couldn't connect for hours, then my connection went out, and the moment it was back up I tied MW--and it worked! Annoyingly, the traces from when I couldn't connect and when it was back are identical--and they match the first "working" one I posted. This time though, I got "couldn't connect" messages instead of simply "icon spins forever".

The door knob incident should have its own thread. That was legendary.

US Cyclonus may have been acceptable, if he'd been SILVER instead of tan. The G1 toy was purple and silver, not purple and tan with silvery-beige accents.

I paid extra to get a JP Cyclonus (since the colors are COMPLETELY different), but no others.

Japanese versions of Universe Ratchet and Universe Ironhide have paint that more closely resembles the G1 'toon appearance. (often denoted as Henkei Ratchet and Henkei Ironhide).

Found this from a PS3 power supply thread: "Hi I am an Amercian living in the UK. I have a PS3 though I have it plugged straight into the UK mains, which is 240v. Even though both the Japanese and US PS3 have 100v on the sticker on the bottom the Power supply inside is universal inside. I have buddies who running both Japanese and US PS3's here in the UK. One of my buddies was brave enough to remove the case on his US PS3 and look at the power supply which clearly had 1 100v-240v. In the same way as the PSP charger is universal."

For me, I almost always get a "browser icon turning for minutes on end". It is very rare for me to actually get some sort of message/error. (I'm talking about MW over the past decade or so)

Failures from a few hours ago: 1 7 ms 7 ms 8 ms 2 6 ms 7 ms 7 ms 3 35 ms 23 ms 14 ms 4 15 ms 14 ms 14 ms 5 14 ms 13 ms 17 ms 6 12 ms 13 ms 14 ms 12.122.86.41 7 16 ms 12 ms 23 ms att-gw.chicago.savvis.net [192.205.35.42] 8 13 ms 13 ms 13 ms cr2-tengig-0-0-5-0.chicago.savvis.net [204.70.195.117] 9 39 ms 40 ms 40 ms cr2-tengig0-0-2-0.dallas.savvis.net [204.70.196.210] 10 40 ms 41 ms 52 ms dpr1-ge-4-0-0.dallasequinix.savvis.net [204.70.196.30] 11 41 ms 40 ms 41 ms er1-te-2-1.dallasequinix.savvis.net [204.70.204.145] 12 46 ms 40 ms 50 ms te1-1.cer02.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [208.175.175.10] 13 41 ms 41 ms 42 ms po2.dar01.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [66.228.118.205] 14 38 ms 50 ms 50 ms po1.fcr02.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [66.228.118.178] 15 40 ms 42 ms 41 ms macrossworld.com [74.86.23.244] 1 5 ms 5 ms 6 ms 2 5 ms 6 ms 7 ms 3 13 ms 16 ms 13 ms 4 13 ms 13 ms 13 ms 5 14 ms 23 ms 13 ms 6 16 ms 12 ms 15 ms 7 14 ms 13 ms 15 ms att-gw.chicago.savvis.net [192.205.35.42] 8 13 ms 15 ms 14 ms cr2-tengig-0-0-5-0.chicago.savvis.net [204.70.195.117] 9 41 ms 41 ms 40 ms cr2-tengig0-0-2-0.dallas.savvis.net [204.70.196.210] 10 39 ms 42 ms 40 ms dpr1-ge-4-0-0.dallasequinix.savvis.net [204.70.196.30] 11 56 ms 210 ms 207 ms er1-te-2-1.dallasequinix.savvis.net [204.70.204.145] 12 39 ms 41 ms 38 ms te1-1.cer02.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [208.175.175.10] 13 39 ms 51 ms 39 ms po2.dar01.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [66.228.118.205] 14 39 ms 41 ms 40 ms po1.fcr02.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [66.228.118.178] 15 42 ms 40 ms 39 ms macrossworld.com [74.86.23.244] Current working one: 1 19 ms 5 ms 17 ms 2 6 ms 5 ms 10 ms 3 13 ms 11 ms 11 ms 4 14 ms 13 ms 25 ms 5 12 ms 14 ms 21 ms 6 14 ms 13 ms 13 ms 7 14 ms 13 ms 15 ms att-gw.chicago.savvis.net [192.205.35.42] 8 12 ms 19 ms 26 ms cr2-tengig-0-0-5-0.chicago.savvis.net [204.70.195.117] 9 48 ms 39 ms 40 ms cr2-tengig0-0-2-0.dallas.savvis.net [204.70.196.210] 10 39 ms 39 ms 39 ms dpr1-ge-4-0-0.dallasequinix.savvis.net [204.70.196.30] 11 38 ms 39 ms 42 ms er1-te-2-1.dallasequinix.savvis.net [204.70.204.145] 12 40 ms 39 ms 40 ms te1-1.cer02.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [208.175.175.10] 13 39 ms 200 ms 203 ms po2.dar01.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [66.228.118.205] 14 40 ms 39 ms 43 ms po1.fcr02.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [66.228.118.178] 15 40 ms 39 ms 41 ms macrossworld.com [74.86.23.244]

A Scheherazade would be cool... (I think I spelled it right)

Reduced the kibble on my Jetfire a bit. Took off the belts, and the silvery-grey shoulder parts that really stick out in both jet and bot mode. Basically, all the "Prime-only" parts. Jetfire's pins come out pretty easily, so if you can do so, remove them. Only one spring flew out of his chest when I took it apart, so that's good. (the shoulders have some STIFF springs) Took a pic of the internals for reference just in case all the gears and springs decided to go flying off while I was working... When I got it all back together, the chest mechanism worked smoother---but that also tends to vary day-by-day anyways, so I'll see if it's a permanent bonus. Not sure what I'll do with the "openings" left by the removal of the silver shoulder bits. It's not very noticeable (since they were half-open anyways even with the kibble) but I would like to stick something in there. No good reference pics of that area yet AFAIK---he's always hunched over! Though comparing the few pics out there with the robot replicas version, I'm pretty sure those bits aren't "officially" there so their removal does improve both bot and jet accuracy. Jet mode pics tomorrow maybe. I've also (mostly) removed the "JTFR" lettering. It'd burnish the plastic to remove them 100%, so they're just "very faded" now.

That video is quite different from how I normally spray---many quick little bursts. Doesn't that lead to lots of dry overspray flecks on the "just painted" adjacent areas? So many starts and stops---seems it'd be hard to start and stop the spray entirely off the model, when the sprayed area of each burst is so small. This is Tamiya's video, one of the few others I've seen for gloss---and is pretty much how I do it. "Long strokes" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1HdmTH_tkE

Why one coat? Because despite trying numerous times, I have never been successful at the "mist coat" thing. Mist coats are rough, and if I have a mist coat applied, the final coat never look good, due to the bumpiness/roughness of that first layer. I can do "mutiple non-opaque layers" when brush painting if I'm lucky and careful, but never spraying.

All 1/48 have that issue. You can glue magnets in to help. (I could swear I saved the thread about it, but can't find it now)

I was right--he did several for Nickelodeon, including Maya the Bee, and Grimm's Fairy Tales. The latter has a quasi-Macross connection, as the voice cast for that is pretty much the Robotech cast.

Apparently VO:OT for 360 got an update/patch, and most issues were fixed.

Got a partial-----didn't connect for 60 secs, then it did on the second try. But it may be useful: Good/working: 1 4 ms 6 ms 5 ms 2 8 ms 5 ms 5 ms 3 12 ms 14 ms 13 ms 4 13 ms 13 ms 17 ms 5 12 ms 13 ms 14 ms 6 14 ms 13 ms 13 ms 12.122.86.41 7 14 ms 13 ms 14 ms att-gw.chicago.savvis.net [192.205.35.42] 8 14 ms 13 ms 13 ms cr2-tengig-0-0-5-0.chicago.savvis.net [204.70.195.117] 9 38 ms 41 ms 43 ms cr2-tengig0-0-2-0.dallas.savvis.net [204.70.196.210] 10 39 ms 70 ms 40 ms dpr1-ge-4-0-0.dallasequinix.savvis.net [204.70.196.30] 11 40 ms 39 ms 40 ms er1-te-2-1.dallasequinix.savvis.net [204.70.204.145] 12 39 ms 39 ms 40 ms te1-1.cer02.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [208.175.175.10] 13 38 ms 39 ms 40 ms po2.dar01.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [66.228.118.205] 14 39 ms 39 ms 39 ms po1.fcr02.dal01.dallas-datacenter.com [66.228.118.178] 15 40 ms 41 ms 40 ms macrossworld.com [74.86.23.244] Failed: 1 6 ms 5 ms 5 ms 2 7 ms 6 ms 7 ms 3 12 ms 12 ms 13 ms 4 13 ms 13 ms 14 ms 5 12 ms 13 ms 14 ms 6 13 ms 13 ms 13 ms 12.122.86.41 7 14 ms 13 ms 13 ms att-gw.chicago.savvis.net [192.205.35.42] 8 13 ms 16 ms 13 ms cr2-tengig-0-0-5-0.chicago.savvis.net [204.70.195.117] 9 41 ms 40 ms 39 ms cr2-tengig0-0-2-0.dallas.savvis.net [204.70.196.210] 10

Wooo! Thanks a bunch! Though I'm not a "foot" guy, I think they're my fave part of the drawing. (really like the hands too)

My main concern is really "covering in one coat, without drips/runs". Black paint is in my experience, less opaque than you'd think.

A VF-19F/S/Kai with the intake/hip area done wrong, almost *has* to look wrong in fighter mode. Only a YF-19/19A can be done "incorrectly" and still look decent in fighter mode. The extended LERX on the F/S/Kai pretty much demands the hips/intakes be done as a separate piece from the LERX/aux intake.