David Hingtgen

Gah, I might be too late, but just in case: Ask if the lower speedbrakes open too! Having just the upper one open is wrong---it'd be like having just the nosegear retractable, and not ALL the landing gear. F-14s have 3 speedbrakes, not 1--and the pilot can't pick which to deploy---they all go or none do. Also please point out that physically, it's a 1995+ F-14A, and wholly unsuitable for any 1970's or 1980's paint scheme.

Too shiny? Not shiny enough. I want chromed everything. The real thing's chromed! (real as in the Peterbilt they film). Complaining that "chrome is too shiny" and doesn't look right to represent the real truck's chrome is kind of like saying "that real wood used for that model ship's deck looks too woody---imitation wood-look vinyl would be better".

I still think Mylene's valk should work better in 3D than most--mainly because it's so curved---the entire fuselage, wings etc are are "funkily shaped" in order to accomodate the "feminine" battroid mode. The battroid mode dictates the shape of the fighter, not the other way around. This is also a good time to link to one of Polidread's latest drawings: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...st&p=770977

I'd rather Yamato do Mylene's valk than any other at this point.

Definitely far hotter than I go. I go "warm" at most usually.

Today I just let them sit in the sun to warm up a bit. In my experience, how full the can is has a greater effect than heating up the paint. Or maybe people heat them up a lot more than I do.

I think we all saw it a few days ago, since it was headlined at most of the major TF sites. Anyways---for 1/4 that price, you can get stripes that actually match BB's. http://www.vinylgraphics.net/shopexd.asp?id=4651 Then your yellow Camaro will look like this: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26328 Then you can laugh at all the people who spent a grand to have their car NOT look as much like BB as yours does.

Just got done. Overall--inconsistent. Some parts dried quickly to a very gloss finish with only a single light (yet opaque) coat. Some parts with 2 quite wet coats never got much beyond semi-gloss. I think it's more of a raw atomization thing than anything--droplets are too big. Generally---applying over bare plastic leads to a thinner and smoother finish, than applying over the factory glossy paint. I'm reluctant to re-do the nose cone, I plan to let it dry for a LONG time, then see how the tailfins match. I want the nose cone and tailfins to match, so if the tailfins (which have a factory finish much like the nosecone) turn out the same way as the nosecone did, I'll leave the nosecone as-is. But if the tailfins turn out very glossy for some reason, then I'll have to try another coat on the nosecone. I'd like ALL the black parts to have an identical finish, but if I must I'll have some parts semi-gloss and some really glossy---all I demand is that the nose and tail match in the end. Tailfins aren't ready to be painted yet--have some cutting to do. But when they are ready, I'm switching to my brand-new can, for max pressure.

A lot of the new figs are "close, but not enough for me to buy"---mainly all the new planes. Give me either real planes, or totally fake (but cool-looking and well-proportioned) ones. Semi-deformed parodies of existing planes aren't very appealing. As for Mudflap--why couldn't Skids be that good? I just plain like Skids' colors a lot better. And WTF at putting Simmons with Mudflap---I'm pretty sure he drove Skids at the end.

Don't forget its spin-off, Count Duckula.

Isn't "Ninja Assassin" redundant?

"IPS Driver error. It appears there is a problem with the database"

Actually it's quite well-known in the US, due to Nickelodeon.

I plan to try some Tamiya TS-14 with various techniques today, will report back.

Thanks for making it easier to merge the topics!

Was Phoenix ever declared the "official" name before this? I still like the idea that it's actually named "Zero" like the A6M... (and AFAIK, canonically, the VF-25 is still just *nicknamed* Messiah) This is all one giant "A-10: Warthog vs Thunderbolt" question.

Cameras----rather than raw megapixels, compare "how many megapixels vs size of the actual sensor". In the quest to get "the biggest number in the ads" many companies are actually squeezing too many megapixels out of sensors that can't handle it. Sometimes, less is better. It's roughly akin to JPEG compression---sure, you can reduce the file size, but at what point does image quality suffer? Same for megapixels--sure, you can get more pixels--but if the extra pixels are little more than noise, chroma-errors, and dust specks? I'd rather have a bit smaller, but better, pics. The real short, simple way to pick a camera---glass/lens. Bigger is better. Period. Buy the camera with the biggest lens you can afford and that you're willing to lug around. Cameras, like eyes, rely on light above all else. The fanciest electronics and sensors in the world can't compensate for lack of light. Even on a sunny day, a bigger, higher-quality lens lets in more light, and thus, better pics. This also why binoculars rock at night---they have a bigger lens than your own eye, and can "see in the dark" better. Most insanely in-depth camera site: http://dpreview.com/ More "grounded" camera reviews: http://www.imaging-resource.com/DIGCAM01.HTM

Depends on which Super Flanker version you're talking about, and whether you mean the "old" Su-35 designation or the "new" Su-35 designation. (Sukhoi is worse than MiG nowadays when it comes to re-using/re-assigning things----there were always a ton of Flankers, but at least they all had their own designation)

http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/tutorials-ho...ins-rivets.html Just a note--some pins are just going to be inaccessible, too "stuck", or "the parts around them are too fragile." Also, BM toys seem to all have very "stuck" pins--I have yet to be able to get a pin out of any of them. I use an actual nail punch, similar to but not identical to the one in the video. (I'd like one like that, but can't find it--that one has a constant-diameter shaft so you can go in deeper) I currently use a balsa-wood block, but am going to get a chunk of basswood soon--balsa collapses too much for many pins. (but by being so soft, the pins go right into it, and the paint/plastic don't get damaged)

Quick poll: Should I keep the blue striping on my MP TC's chest? Or just go all-silver like G1 and the US MP SW?

I assume one did the music, and one did the lyrics. Or something like that.

My TRU had like a dozen figs---the same dozen they had 2 weeks ago.

That's way better than my Decepticon cake...

Oh, you gotta read the whole thread. It means little taken out of context. (I still like my vaseline suggestion--same effect, but far less nasty)

Yeah, that's like the version of Boom Boom Rocket that you're forced to play in Hell..