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Everything posted by GU-11
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All Things Videogame Related: EXTREME VS!!
GU-11 replied to Keith's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
They're probably working on the next, next sequel already. Final Fantasy XIII-2: Lightning Strikes Trice.- 6876 replies
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So.... world is still here! Reflection on Best of 2012.
GU-11 replied to Ghost Train's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
Dude, you've GOT to find a better translation software, because that post made you sound like a psycho Jack the Ripper-style copycat killer. Seriously, you took what out of a girl?! -
I'll try painting a piece of scrap plastic with Tamiya acrylics and then spray some clear coat over it to see how it goes. Hopefully it'll turn out okay like in your case. As for the turpenoid and oil paint, I just hope they'll be available for overseas shipping, what with the restrictions on liquids and aerosol cans on planes these days. Would the surface end up too thick if I sprayed a layer of matte coat before and after weathering? The reason I need a matte coat under the weathering, is because the pastels supposedly stick better on a matte surface and won't be blown off when you apply your top coat to seal it in. Or is it okay to do weathering on just bare plastic? Thanks for the heads-up on the Future. Same weather here, BTW. Way too humid to use spray cans outside, and my spray booth isn't powerful enough to handle aerosol cans indoors. And with my AB busted up, I won't be doing any spraying until I get it fixed with weekend.
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That's Mark-Gor to you. Show a little respect to a former Dai Lo, will you?
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Giant Saver (a.k.a. Chinese Power Rangers)
GU-11 replied to areaseven's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
And I thought Saban's bastardized super sentai shows were embarrassing.... -
@ VF-19: Thanks for the tips! Copied and pasted on a txt file along with all the other modeling tips. The step-by-step will prove very useful if I do a full-on paint job. For my current project (minor FOC Jazz weathering and touch-up) though, I just plan on panel-lining, a coat flat spray over bare plastic, and then some pastel weathering and paint chip effects. Speaking of which, which one is the right order of things? Flat coat before pastel weathering, or vice versa? Also, should I be doing paint chip effects (either silver paint or graphite shavings) before or after the flat coat? Sorry for the flood of questions. Most other modeling forums offer complex and elaborate weathering and painting tutorials that TBH is a little overwhelming for me to handle as a relative beginner. @ MacrossJunkie: Thanks for the heads-up on the acrylics! Actually, I'm just planning on panel washing over bare plastic, and flat coat it with Tamiya matte spray. The main thing that concerns me is that Tamiya's clear sprays are lacquer-based. Spraying that over acrylics is what worries me. Sometimes I do wonder about how Tamiya does things. If you only made lacquer-based clear sprays which are only safe on lacquer paints, then what the hell am I supposed to use over your acrylics and enamel paints? Would pastels mixed with thinner (Tamiya or industrial) and window cleaner work instead? The local Tamiya store doesn't carry a lot of enamel paints if any, and my current spray booth setup doesn't allow me to use anything with toxic fumes.
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Transformers: Age of Extinction - in theaters June 27, 2014
GU-11 replied to taksraven's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
Strangely, I'm not excited about TF4 like I was with previous TF movies. Maybe it's franchise fatigue. It no longer matters to me what TF's will be in it, or who stars in it. I'll watch it in the theater as I always have when a TF movie comes out, and probably be pleasantly surprised with certain improvements, while rolling my eyes at Bay's trademark potty humor and cuckoo-crazy characters. I'll still buy whatever toys I like from the movie, regardless, being a real fan of the movieverse aesthetics.- 950 replies
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So if I panel washed bare plastic using acrylics, there wouldn't be a problem, right?
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We don't have Windex here, but I've noticed that most any window/glass cleaner seems to work in removing or thinning Tamiya paints. I used Kao Magiclean to thin my Tamiya paints once for hand-brushing, and it actually works better than Tamiya's own brand of thinner (doesn't cause the first coat to lift when you apply the second one, and within minutes of the first coat!) Should have thought of using it instead of Tamiya's expensive airbrush cleaner--smells horrible and very strong. Speaking of paints, can I use Tamiya's acrylics for panel-line washing? I've only heard of people using enamel and even washes, but not acrylics. Is it just unpopular or is there a reason people avoid it?
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Thanks, I'll give it a try. My current plan, though, is to bring the whole damn AB to the Tamiya store and get the guy there to replace/fix whatever parts are necessary, which probably entails replacing the needle and rubber seal aka packing anyway. I don't want to end up damaging the AB any further trying to fix the thing on my own. But if all else fails, I'll contact the guy at Starship Modeler and hopefully get some help to salvage the mess. BTW, I'm a big fan of the site; learned a lot of techniques and tips from there. Sounds like a good AB for me to upgrade to. I'm admittedly a bot of a slob, and cleaning airbrushes has turned out to be one of my least favorite things to do. Felt like a fricking bomb disposal expert when I took my AB apart for the first time, I was so nervous. BTW, nice job on that MiG-3! If using that AB brings me just one step closer to getting a realistic coat of paint like that, it'll be worth every cent. Of course, I'll need to do a lot of practicing on scrap plastic with water colors first--the tools are only as good as the user.
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LOL! It was only after the fifth rewatch that I was able to pry my eyes away long enough to notice anything else on the screen.
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@ VF-19: That Badger Patriot you mentioned; is it single or double action? I might get this one later when I get the hang of airbrushing, and keep the basic Tamiya one for large areas and/or single-color paint jobs. @ Kylwell: Many thanks, Kylwell! One thing, though. Will he ignore my email, since he doesn't even know who I am? I've heard that emails sent from gmail accounts have a habit of ending up in spam folders.
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Personally, I plan to stick with this cheap one until I'm at least more familiar with the workings of an AB. Don't trust myself around the more expensive ones yet. I'll probably go with single-action AB's, since I tend to use pastels, weathering kits and other non-AB techniques for exhaust stains, post shading and "racing stripes." Double action ones seem like a bitch to maintain and use, and I'm already getting flustered with the simplest AB Tamiya (or any airbrush company for that matter) has to offer.
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Not sure if that would work for the Nolan movies. Previous Batmobiles were designed to be sleek and fast. The Tumbler's more like a tank that rams its way through things, and the fins/wings might get snapped off in the process. Besides, bat wings and fins just don't blend well with the Tumbler's rough and brawny design, IMO. Just my two cents' worth. And yeah, I like the Batman Forever car, too. Love the design cues they took from Giger, with the engine detailing under a rib-like chassis. Agreed on the neon, too. It was kind of gaudy. That said, the engine had to be lit in order to show through.
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After watching the TDKR DVD several times now, I just noticed that the bat-pod DOES have a slight leftward tilt to it. This is most apparent during the scene when Bruce and Selina Kyle walk up to it in construction site, and the cargo crate opens to reveal the bat-pod. It's not as apparent as the toy, but it does bank to the left a bit. Dare I presume that HT actually made the new version bank like that to make it screen-accurate?
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Ouch! How much did that cost you? I heard that high end airbrushes can cost up to 500 USD. Murphy's Law at work, I guess. Prior to cleaning the AB for the first time, I've been re-reading that damn manual for two months, trying to memorize every step of disassembling the AB, taking extra care to place all components inside a box to make sure they don't go missing. And still I failed to notice the rubber seal aka packing, and managed to bend the needle. I guess everything's a learning curve. Next time I disassemble an AB, the needle will be placed in a cup (pointy end up, of course) and the center block will be disassembled in a box with a transparent plastic cover over it; even if the packing launches into the air from the forceful prying of the center block and air hose, it'll just ricochet off the plastic cover and back into the box.
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Seems I might be needing that "packing" thing after all. I reassembled the AB and filled the paint cup with water, and gave it a try. The water in the paint cup kept bubbling, and when I pressed the trigger, no water came out. This, however, might have something to do with my accidentally bending the needle when picking it up from a box I placed it in during disassembly. I straightened it the best I could, but it seems like the damage is already done. I had no idea a metal needle can be so fragile. But if it was the needle, shouldn't it at least spray when I pull back on the trigger? Thanks for the advice, Noyhauser! I think I'll try getting them from the Tamiya store I bought this from, first. Should be quicker this way. First, the packing goes missing, and now I have to replace the needle too. Damn, this airbrushing sh!t's getting expensive.
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Thanks for replying! I'm using a Tamiya basic airbrush, the one that comes with the Spraywork basic compressor set. TBH, the more I read the manual and cross-reference it to the actual airbrush, it seems as if there have been some revisions that weren't documented. In the manual, there was supposed to be an O-ring that was supposed to be placed between the screw top of the central block and the paint cup, but in the actual AB, the ring seems to be built into the paint cup itself. FYI, it looks like the upper hole supplies air into the part where the paint mixes with the air in the central block and exits the nozzle, while the lower hole simply blasts air through the nozzle continuously. I'll try to find some time and test out the airbrush with some water and see if it still works.
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I was cleaning my airbrush for the first time, and some time during disassembly, a plastic seal called a "packing" went missing. It's supposed to be located between the "central block" and air hose and it very small--I didn't even notice it the first time I took it apart. Below is a pic of the central block and air hose. That figure-eight depression on the red plastic cover is where the "packing" is supposed to go: I know it's a stupid question, but is this part essential to the airbrush? I could have sworn it wasn't even there when I first took the airbrush apart. I searched the entire room, but that plastic part is nowhere to be seen. The airbrush worked fine the first few times, so I was wondering it that packing thing was even needed. Any advice?
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Bought the DVD and watched it. Mind = blown. Glad I stayed away from the spoilers all this while. More twists and turns than you can shake a stick at, and everything is neatly tied, intertwining all three movies. Ironically, Bane's voice turned out to be the clearest voice in the whole movie. His Sean Connery impression takes a little getting used to, though. I got the special 2-disc version, and the BTS stuff was pretty cool, especially the one featuring the history of all the Batmobiles that were made since the beginning of the franchise.
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All Things Videogame Related: EXTREME VS!!
GU-11 replied to Keith's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
Thanks for the link! Found all the challenge descriptions I need. Some of these challenges are ridiculously difficult, but at least you don't need to complete the level for them to register. Not a PC gamer myself, but it looks tempting. Is this game set completely in space? If so, the setting might get repetitive and bland after a while.- 6876 replies
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All Things Videogame Related: EXTREME VS!!
GU-11 replied to Keith's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
Completed Hitman Absolution. Going for different challenges and kills. Surprisingly the last stage turned out to be the easiest. Just sniped them from cover--never knew what hit them. Some of the challenges are so damn cryptic that half the challenge is figuring out WTF I have to do to unlock them. Lots of fun, though. Despite its few flaws and quirks, it's a worthy addition to the Hitman series, and a awesome game in its own right.- 6876 replies
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I'm still using the 40GB HK 1st gen. One of the reasons I don't like using it as a DVD player is because using the controller as a remote sucks. Since I have a DVD player anyway, I prefer not to use the PS3 for DVD's.
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Good point. Heat seems to be the PS3's bigger enemy than wear and tear. I guess I'll save myself some money and use the PS3 as a bluray/DVD player after all.
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I thought that with movies, the laser has to constantly read from the disc as opposed to only reading when a game loads a different stage.