shiroikaze

...Autozone is still around?

I use wire cutters myself.. I sometimes had a bit of trouble using nail clippers, the concave shape and the sprue tree sometimes get in the way. Not to mention, I always feel tempted to try and cut flush with nail clippers...

Maybe this will shed some light for you: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...=5881&st=20 It's WM Cheng's step-by-step on his VF-0S. He included steps for sanding down seams and polishing his canopy. I guess this can probably help...

What exactly are formation lights? Are they basically the same as the running lights on the wingtips as well as the light on the vertical fin?

MY goodness, even though you were new to model-building then, your older ships still look great. Question: Has anyone ever read that as "Thunder-Salami"? =\

I think I'll assume them to be sensors, thanks Edwin.

@VFTF1:

Curious, why does Tamiya regular cement come in a 20ml bottle whereas the extra-thin cement comes in a 40ml bottle? Also, what is that? Is it a light? A reflector? A warning color?

@anime52k8: Stealth.... gecko? Oh I see, bummer.

Mmm, you're right. Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough or I was overthinking the methods... I looked at some tutorials at the time and sometimes I felt they left out certain things because it's common knowledge already or only touched upon certain aspects of modeling. I would have a bunch of questions about small things, like for example, I would read a tutorial that includes a step of washing/scrubbing resin parts in soapy solutions whereas another tutorial would not touch upon it at all, and so on. Also, I don't remember what glue I used--I actually took apart an old model that I built many years ago and washed it--there was some glue holding one of the fins to the body, and it dissolved in the soapy water, it must've been white glue since I was a kid who didn't know any better... But I didn't know that those kind of glues and putty as well would not be phased by soapy water. Now I know alot better thanks to you. Another question about glue/cement and putty (and I probably guess it's true), do both of them have to be used in conjunction to join two pieces together and get rid of the seams? You can't really use putty by itself to do just that right? And finally, I realize that my first couple of model kits won't turn out as awesome as WM Cheng's or everyone elses' models, but it's worth the try. Thanks Jardann. Also, sorry VF2SS for giving you misinformation...

What's pretty funny is that when the YF-19 rolled out as the VF-19, the YF-21 was scrapped but reintroduced as the VF-22, special operations fighter (I thought it was a bomber but I guess it's role is more broad...) I read on Wikipedia that the YF-23 was being reintroduced into another competition as an interim bomber. Is Kawamori some sort of mild prophet? @Schizophrenic: I myself prefer the YF-23 as well.

I would love to see those scanned... but that be a pain to do for calendars that big...

Well, the glue came off of my F-18 test model fairly easily... I don't think it's a good idea to wash them after you have done that... but nevertheless, I am a noob. But I did read some people actually primed and painted their models without washing them... [edit] At some point, I need to compile some sort tutorial/FAQ all in one convenient thread so anyone who is new or people who have forgotten can look it up easily...

No needs to rush after all Those links aren't gonna go anywhere as long as people visit/download from them.

That doesn't really matter. Look at Northrop Grumman vs Lockheed, the F-22 was more expensive than the YF-23. =\ [edit] Actually ignore me, I'm wrong....

It's an all in one tutorial, cd to dvd, patching, etc. SDF Macross is 1.14gb, so even though it is DVD, you still need to add in a dummy file (provided in the tutorial) to go over the 1.4 gb limit. About the PS1 exploit, you do need some way to get the files onto the memory card.

Thanks Edwin

You could use a wire cutter/pliers to cut the parts out. I think it's better you paint first, then seal it with a gloss coat. Then add panels lines and decals and another gloss coat before adding a matte coat. I can't really tell you which coating spray to use since I'll be using Future from an airbrush. Sorry about that. As for the enamels, are they still liquid? @Ghost Train: By the way, do you wait for the gloss coat to fully dry before adding decals?

Alright! Both parts are up, use winRAR to extract (two parts one file): http://www.megaupload.com/?d=AHNTF55K http://www.megaupload.com/?d=FHLA5QP3 Enjoy! [edit]Also found my swapmagic cd this morning

Wait a minute, what is that for? Is that another intake?

How about "Everyone! Listen to MY SONG!" instead of just "Listen to my song!" it makes it sound more demanding. Also, it doesn't have to be an exact translation as long as it gives you the same emotion and meaning. Don't be afraid to change dialogue to fit the dubbing and colloquialism. Honestly, Ranka's voice was pretty decent but I feel she needs to be less of a "cute catgirl". Ranka needs to be more of an "ordinary high school girl". Don't have her "imitate" Nakajima. But I have to admit though, her "Nyan Nyan Ni Hao Nyan" was dead on. Alto sounds cliched--Sorry. It's actually hard for me to describe how Alto sounds but his Japanese VA personified him right there... I consider Alto to be soft, evolving, being limited, angry/frustrated. I guess to me, he sounds a tad kinda sarcastic... You (you're currently his VA right?) gotta make him... less "manly" I suppose. I swear, you sound like a popular VA... I just don't know who... As for Sheryl, she needs to be more aggressive and deeper. Quite literally sing from her stomach--err--diaphragm I guess. Also, tailor the lyrics too. Michel was decent, but I feel he needs work... and the voice during the VF-171 launch was great. When I listen to voices from anime, drama, etc, I want the voice actors to invoke whatever emotion they want me to feel. But yeah, It's only my opinion that's all... Just trying to help. If you think I was offensive, sorry. You are right, Macross Frontier is difficult to dub since everyone is so unique...

dremel holes the size of the magnets and glue them I suppose. WM Cheng inspired this method I think: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...28142&st=20 I'm actually considering getting 3/16 x 1/32 and 1/8 x 1/32 magnets. But I haven't built my kit yet so I don't know for sure if the 3/16's will fit or not....

I can't really tell if it really is good enough My first copy worked alright, but I don't know if I did it correctly this time for the second copy... But I'll upload the original iso to megaupload tomorrow (if I don't forget), it's a smaller download thankfully. So yeah, I'll let you and everyone "experiment" with it. As long as you follow all the steps, you should be able to play the game.

ffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!!! Goddamn myself!!! I accidentally erased my free McBoot from my mem card while trying to upgrade to a newer version! But that's not the kicker! My PS2 has begun making odd noises AND I lost my Swapmagic CD!!! Triple whammy! Now I don't even know if the games I patch will work or not Heck, I don't even know if the Macross game I just burned work... Well, if you guys want, I can just upload the game, as is, in its original form. No dummy file, no patches. The tutorial is laid out pretty much, it isn't really that hard... I might see if I left my swapmagic cd at my cousin's house. Hopefully that's the case... Geez.. first, my monitor's base broke; second, Fry's refuses to fix it; third, my brother dropped our digital camera; and finally, now this... So anyway, ffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!!! :cry:

Ahhh! So those are those Kotobukiya option parts! Anyway, how's the pull force on the magnets? Particularly the smaller set? Is it almost the same?