shiroikaze

I think you're on to something here...

Oooooooooooooooohh! You got me fooled there! But still, I like what you're doing with it. I might actually reconsider doing a glossy coat rather than matte seeing how yours turned out pretty awesome.

Hey Wicked Ace, how do you get that awesome metallic paint job?

There is only one emoticon to express what I am feeling!

I already gone through fichtenfoo's website as much as I can already . As for Heavy Armor Modeler, the site helps alot, it put some of the self-doubts in my mind to rest. Thanks alot!

Yes, it can be. It's a snap-together kit.

Actually, the MG Freedom Gundam holds its gun pretty darn well... ...and then you have the hands that ychanus was talking about (shown in the latter two pics). Poseable hands (with the niche) that hold the beam sabers and static hands to hold the gun. The model kits that I know can't hold their own weapons would be the old HG Gundam Wing model kits... Back to the VF-25 DX Toy: Honestly, I thought the toy would look better than what you guys took pictures of... Doesn't really strike me as a $100+ toy. Is anyone going to do an overhaul on their toy?

Thanks alot (I mean it) for helping, never knew those spinbrushes had gotten cheaper... As for the gloss coat question, I forgot that the answer was right there in front in me =\ *smacks forehead*

Oh okay! Gotcha!

@VF-25Fan: Interrupting a thread doesn't bug me at all! Besides getting help for myself, I was kinda hoping that anyone else who is also new can benefit from this thread. So go right ahead and ask away! @Ghost Train: Thanks alot for helping, we really appreciate it. One thing to note though is that can't be just any tape, it's gotta be low-tack tape like painter's tape or that Tamiya tape. As for Future, the link below will probably explain what it is better than I do: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html But in a nutshell, it's a household cleaning product that has found alot of uses in hobbyists' hands. It's mainly used as a sealing coat, but I guess it's only handy in other situations if you know what you are doing...

Thanks alot for answering my questions, that clears up alot of things. But, So the gloss coat is basically Future unmixed, right? Or do I require an actual gloss coat product? Will a simple rinse and scrubbing do? Or do I leave them to soak for the whole day and scrub them dry? Understood, but what do you mean by "in whet coats"? I did love the panel lines shown here and in the Hobby Japan scans in Klam1020's post, but WM Cheng's VF-0S look pretty much stunning, so I guess I think I will go for the subtler look. Thanks for clearing that up. Again, thanks alot for clearing alot of things.

Hello everyone! I've been lurking here since the beginning of October, searching and reading up on any useful information when it comes to modeling and such. I have to admit that even with alot of amazing threads here, it's kinda difficult searching for any specific info. So pretty much, I'm only asking for some guidance from the pros, the experienced, and even the noobs above me. I've done model kits before--gundam and aircrafts--but I'm kind of new to the painting and detailing aspect of modeling. I just got my VF-25F a few weeks ago and I want to try to go all out with it after some practice. Pretty much, I will try and go for a heavy look, semi-new/minimal weathering. I'm going to try to paint everything on and use as few decals as possible… I'll be borrowing HWR MKII's method to tint all the clear parts like the canopy and I'll also be using rare earth magnets to tighten up any loose parts like how WM Cheng did to his VF-25F. I'll be using his VF-25F step-by-step thread to get a good idea on placement and such. And from what I understand of the steps to modeling from another thread and FichtenFoo's MG tutorial, it generally goes something like this: 1) Cut parts from sprues, leaving nubs intact to be shaven flush with a razor or wet sandpaper. 2) Organize and skewer parts to prime and then paint base colors after cure. 3) Mask and paint details and designs piece by piece. 4) Remove masks and spray Future coating. 5) Add panel lines and decals. 6) Mix Tamiya Flat Base (or similar) with Future and spray once more to seal everything. Is that how the whole general shebang goes? Is there anything crucial that I miss? Or is there anything extra that needs to be noted? Now before I start, do I have to wash the parts in soapy water? I read somewhere that there is some sort of chemical on the parts that makes paint or primer difficult to adhere to the surface. Or does that only pertain to resin? Also, what can I use as primer, gloss coat, decal solution? From what I read, Future can be used as a primer and everything. Is it better for a noob like me to buy individual supplies like Mr. Surfacer for priming, Microsol and Microset for the decals, and so on instead of relying solely on Future? Also, can the paint themselves be used as a primer as well? Is Future best sprayed on or dunked in for both priming and sealing? Will Future be enough to protect the paint and decals from multiple transformations? For panel lines, which yields better/precise results? Gundam Markers or oil/clay washes? Is this merely preference? Did anyone have to scribe deeper panel lines into the VF-25F kit before filling them in? Now about my airbrush (pics included): My dad brought this home many, many years ago and I just finally got this little sucker out for a closer look. It's a Binks "Wren-C" and from what I understand from Winter Dyne in another thread, I guess this airbrush mixes externally, and generally not recommendable... But then again, it’s the only airbrush I have at the moment (for now) and I need to practice with it. Has anyone used Binks before and what do you think of it? Am I better off getting a different airbrush before I start on the VF-25F? As for the compressor, I have none. As I've read, a compressor with a tank, regulator and moisture trap is the best way to go. I know I won't be airbrushing often so I really don't need too much power or a really big tank… I'm eying these three compressors below, which do you think is the best? Is there anything better in the $70-$120 price range? Can I buy a separate moisture trap if the compressor doesn't come with one? Also, how does the horsepower come into play? Is it for shortening charge time? Senco PC1010 Compressor, 1 Horsepower (PEAK), 1 Gallon from Amazon Central Pneumatic 1/3 HP, 3 Gallon, 100 PSI Oilless Air Compressor Central Pneumatic 1/4 HP, 3 Gallon, 100 PSI Oilless Compressor And finally, two questions of the model kit I have in hand (pics as well): First off, there seem to be two scratches on the canopy, inside and out. How would I go about to get rid of this? Do I wetsand it down with a high grade sandpaper and rub it with Tamiya Polishing Compound? I don’t suppose it will go away if I dip it in Future, would it? Second, the pastic mold. I noticed these "circular, roundish swirly areas" on some parts and they’re pretty noticeable on the black wings. How do these happen? I know they won’t be visible if I paint over it, but will they cause any problems later on? ~~~ I think that covers all the questions I have at the moment, I wanted to ask some more questions but a bit of more googling answered some of the questions I have... I just want to be sure before I start on anything. Again, bear with my noobiness and thanks in advance!

Thanks alot. This thread and many other threads have lots of great information to get a model to look its best. Even though I have been building model kits for some time, I'm actually new to the painting and detailing aspect of it (I have a practice model thankfully). Pretty much I'm going through all related threads in the forums to gather as much knowledge as I can.

What do you guys use to make the niche for the magnets? A drill?

I believe they're more inline with the MG's.