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To buy or not to buy?


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I have to agree, the Zero lines are dieing; grab one before it's too late. Like I said before, with some creativity, you can always fix it or have it in a permanent mode/pose.

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The place locally, has it for $175. I won't have a chance to drop by until later this week, so I hope they still have some by then.

well, with the current hlj-sale and at the current exchange-rate (Yen->US$), the 0A will cost close to near US$140ish shipped using EMS (give or take US$5).

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The place locally already sold their last VF-0S today. :(

I decided to order the VF-0S from a place called Anime King/aktoycollectibles through their Amazon store for $220. I couldn't find any info on them from any of the threads on this forum. Plus they are not on either the blacklist or straight shooters list. They are listed on the yamato usa site as a retailer of their products. Hopefully it will arrive safely, and without any defects.

After a lot of pondering, I felt that if I were to get the VF-0A, I would not be totally satisfied with it, as I prefer the VF-0S.

Thank you all for all your suggestions and input.

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The place locally already sold their last VF-0S today. :(

I decided to order the VF-0S from a place called Anime King/aktoycollectibles through their Amazon store for $220. I couldn't find any info on them from any of the threads on this forum. Plus they are not on either the blacklist or straight shooters list. They are listed on the yamato usa site as a retailer of their products. Hopefully it will arrive safely, and without any defects.

After a lot of pondering, I felt that if I were to get the VF-0A, I would not be totally satisfied with it, as I prefer the VF-0S.

Thank you all for all your suggestions and input.

Have no fear. I've ordered a Defender directly from them before, and the VF-0S I just got came from them through their Amazon store. I haven't taken it out yet to check for defects, but it arrived safely in just a few days.

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Have no fear. I've ordered a Defender directly from them before, and the VF-0S I just got came from them through their Amazon store. I haven't taken it out yet to check for defects, but it arrived safely in just a few days.

Thanks for the reassurance. I cannot wait to receive it.

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The place locally already sold their last VF-0S today. :(

I decided to order the VF-0S from a place called Anime King/aktoycollectibles through their Amazon store for $220. I couldn't find any info on them from any of the threads on this forum. Plus they are not on either the blacklist or straight shooters list. They are listed on the yamato usa site as a retailer of their products. Hopefully it will arrive safely, and without any defects.

After a lot of pondering, I felt that if I were to get the VF-0A, I would not be totally satisfied with it, as I prefer the VF-0S.

Thank you all for all your suggestions and input.

bummer!

Anyway, yeah. Despite being floppy, the 0S is just damn awesome. Without even attaching the Ghost, even.

In contrast, I think the 0A will only be ok (at least to me) if it has the Ghost attachment.

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I got mine last year when Ami ami had it up. I was definitely looking forward to it. If you have any of the later Yamato releases, like the V2 1/60 VF-1, VF-11, YF-21, et al, the VF-0 feels dated in comparison.

My VF-0A is a 2010 reissue, it got some stress marks on the hip clips(keeps the swing bar in place in fighter/gerwalk modes), and legs where the tabs lock in. Just be careful when releasing the leg, going from fighter to gerwalk, pushing forward and downwards on the knees to release them. Push them inward while doing so too I think.

There is rubber seeping out of the arm joints on mine, this will lead to looseness eventually.

Ultimately the sculpt is great I can't really see Yamato improving it. Most important, the arms have not self destructed. The bad thing is the aforementioned rubber seepage. If anyone knows of a way to tighten the shoulders once the rubber wears off, let me know. The VF-0 toys are kind of like lemons, they LOOK great but ultimately Yamato has moved so far past them. I like them but wish they were substantially better.

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If you want to know if the VF-0S or VF-0A were re-issues or not, get the super pack combos. Those were supposed to be fixed from the regular editions, except for the stand alone VF-0A which is a different color scheme.

I would get the zeros asap. I love em for over all design and size. They look like modernized versions of VF-1 and to me looks better than a non super or strike VF-1.

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If you want to know if the VF-0S or VF-0A were re-issues or not, get the super pack combos. Those were supposed to be fixed from the regular editions, except for the stand alone VF-0A which is a different color scheme.

I would get the zeros asap. I love em for over all design and size. They look like modernized versions of VF-1 and to me looks better than a non super or strike VF-1.

Shin's VF-0A super bundle wasn't perfect. Members here had arms bust and Graham relayed from Yamato that only 50% of them had the "corrected"/fixed arms. The VF-0S was largely free from problems. Stand alone reissues from last year should be alright.

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Out of the topic question:

It was my first transforming VF-0A and the heat shield popped off. I was able to put it back on, but has that happen to anyone of you guys?

I felt terrible afterwards T_T.

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Out of the topic question:

It was my first transforming VF-0A and the heat shield popped off. I was able to put it back on, but has that happen to anyone of you guys?

I felt terrible afterwards T_T.

Not yet but I was just reposing my battroid mode 0S and 0A and their arms are so loose they can't stay up!

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I believe the version 2.0 Zeros still have slightly loose joints.

Just don't force it and use the clear nail polish on the ball joints trick to help tighten them up. Nothing you can do about it without replacing or remaking the joints.

I don't pose my zero's much for this reason and leave them in static poses most of the time. I definately pose my 1/48 VF-1's more than the 1/60s or 1/100 VB-6!

RE: VE-1 and VF-1Ds. I would not worry too much about the pricing and availability if you can wait it out. Unless Yamato specifically says those were limited editions, there is always a good chance for a re-issue, especially when prices are going so high for them now. Same for Bandai.

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There's still a chance to get VF-1D with a decent price ;) , compared to the Elint Seeker. The price is crazy.

Just like the v2 VF-1J max and miria.

It's between $130-$180 on ebay.

The v2 VE-1 is reaching $400 :o

Thank god and my wallet that I always preorder what I want.

I should do just like you said for the exclusive item like 1/60 Angel Birds :(

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I believe the version 2.0 Zeros still have slightly loose joints.

Just don't force it and use the clear nail polish on the ball joints trick to help tighten them up. Nothing you can do about it without replacing or remaking the joints.

I don't pose my zero's much for this reason and leave them in static poses most of the time. I definately pose my 1/48 VF-1's more than the 1/60s or 1/100 VB-6!

RE: VE-1 and VF-1Ds. I would not worry too much about the pricing and availability if you can wait it out. Unless Yamato specifically says those were limited editions, there is always a good chance for a re-issue, especially when prices are going so high for them now. Same for Bandai.

Would that tear the rubber coverings off more though? Just wondering. If not I might try it out.

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If you're worried about the rubber sleeve tearing further, try to bend the ball joints all the way open to expose it as much as possible. You are trying to get to the point where the sleeve does not cover the joint. Then dab a small bit of polish. When it dries, turn it the other way around 180 or as far as possible, and dab a small bit on the OTHER side of the joint where the joint is exposed and the sleeve has pulled away from it.

This way, you are putting friction back on the naked joints where the sleeve doesn't touch.

This is a hit or miss depending on how the rubber sleeve bunches up. You just want to tight up the joint spots where the sleeve has slipped.

Or if you have balls, just take the whole joint apart and replace the sleeve with thicker or fresh rubber sheet like how Yamato shows owners how to fix their 1/24 Patlabor torso ball joints.

I have a 1st issue 1/60 VF-0A with broken elbow and totally cracked, almost breaking knee joint still here from a swap I did for fellow MW a long time ago. Yamato didn't take it back and I had to eat that cost! Grr.... But maybe I can develop stronger joints off it and offer to Zero owners. Will need to take it apart and see what is possible.

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If you're worried about the rubber sleeve tearing further, try to bend the ball joints all the way open to expose it as much as possible. You are trying to get to the point where the sleeve does not cover the joint. Then dab a small bit of polish. When it dries, turn it the other way around 180 or as far as possible, and dab a small bit on the OTHER side of the joint where the joint is exposed and the sleeve has pulled away from it.

This way, you are putting friction back on the naked joints where the sleeve doesn't touch.

This is a hit or miss depending on how the rubber sleeve bunches up. You just want to tight up the joint spots where the sleeve has slipped.

Or if you have balls, just take the whole joint apart and replace the sleeve with thicker or fresh rubber sheet like how Yamato shows owners how to fix their 1/24 Patlabor torso ball joints.

I have a 1st issue 1/60 VF-0A with broken elbow and totally cracked, almost breaking knee joint still here from a swap I did for fellow MW a long time ago. Yamato didn't take it back and I had to eat that cost! Grr.... But maybe I can develop stronger joints off it and offer to Zero owners. Will need to take it apart and see what is possible.

Let me know what you come up with man, and thanks for the tips!

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