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Found a way to remove paint on toys !!!


Montarvillois

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Hi guys,

There's been a question that was asked here in these forums many times and I found the answer so I tought I'd share it with you customizers.

How to remove paint on the 1/48 heatshield without destoying the clear plastic finish ?

Some said break fluid but it melts the plastic

Some said use some sanding grit and polish the thing

I just found out that an oven cleaning product called "Easyoff" removes paint without destroying plastic. I just left my two spare tail fins and heatshield in the gel solution for about an hour and with a plain toothbrush, the paint that colors the back of the heatshield and the tail fins came off without any efforts. The paint used for the skulls is a bit more resistant so I'll let it soak for the night and remove it tomorrow. I'll post pictures of the perfectly clear heatshield then.

Try it, beleive me it works magic.

Edited by Montarvillois
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Hello,

Thanks for the information.

Personally, I've never tried "break" fluid, but I found that "brake" fluid will indeed damage plastic parts by making them brittle. :p

I find it interesting that "Easy Off" will damage metal, but not plastic. You would think the opposite would be true.

I'm interested in the potential long term effects, if any, that may not show up immediately, but months/years later might occur. Plastic is of course porous and I doubt that the cleaner just stays on the surface.

Ovens of course do not have plastic inside of them, because of heating issues, so I wonder if "Easy Off" was ever intended for use on plastic items.

Just curious, not trying to be the "fly in the ointment."

Sincerely,

Christopher B))

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I use Easy Off (Oven Cleaner) quite often to remove paint.  It's nasty stuff, but it does indeed work wonders.

Well why didn't you say so earlier ?

I've been looking and asking all over the place for at least 2 years

:lol:

Hmmm.... I know I've mentioned it at least a few times, along with Windex to remove acrylic-based paints. :p

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I've heard bad things about oven cleaner. But I guess every method works well on some things and not another. I used brake fluid to clean all my Jetfire parts and never had any problems.

On a similar note - don't try to use graffiti removal. I experimented with some that was not intended for plastics and I found out why. I tried it on a junk Jetfire wing and it melted it. :o:D

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Hmm, you might want to try these Mr. Clean Magic Erasers. I used them to remove yellowing on my HCM and accidentally found out they remove paint as well (and pens, just in case a previous owner decided to write on their Valk). I'm not sure how well they would do on something clear, but they are safe for dishwashing.

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I've heard bad things about oven cleaner.  But I guess every method works well on some things and not another.  I used brake fluid to clean all my Jetfire parts and never had any problems. 

On a similar note - don't try to use graffiti removal.  I experimented with some that was not intended for plastics and I found out why.  I tried it on a junk Jetfire wing and it melted it. :o  :D

Yeah, might want to be careful with oven cleaner - news post over at Arnie's Airsoft a while back warned against using such substances on the cheaper metal alloy aftermarket parts to remove paint and other coatings...

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/beta/html/m...order=0&thold=0

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I have used Scalecoat paint stripper in the past and it works on plastics beautifully. It does metal too without damage but it works slowly on metal so it could become an all-day project. It also is hard to find as 99.9% of the people who use it are model railroaders. The shop that I used to get it from went under about two years ago so I'm looking for another supplier.

I've used oven cleaner at the restaurant I used to work at and I've never seen it screw up metal, which is what I used it on. Of course I used Super Grime Away not Easy-Off.

Edited by waylandcool
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Another thing that helped remove the skull emblem onthe heatshield was toothpaste. Not only did it wipe it clean but it gave a new polished and clean finish on the heatshield

If that is the case, then I bet those whitening strips will remove yellowing. I'm being half-serious. That might actually work! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I find it interesting that "Easy Off" will damage metal, but not plastic. You would think the opposite would be true.

I'm interested in the potential long term effects, if any, that may not show up immediately, but months/years later might occur. Plastic is of course porous and I doubt that the cleaner just stays on the surface.

Ovens of course do not have plastic inside of them, because of heating issues, so I wonder if "Easy Off" was ever intended for use on plastic items.

Christopher B))

Both acid and basic substances can be stored safely in plastic as it is ph7 in theory. Exceptioning extreme solvents which must be stored in glass or clay, plastic is the most used container. Easy-off does come in a plastic container now... doesn't it? :rolleyes: I've played with 99% sulfuric in 55 gallon plastic drums. Acid will eat the heck out of metal though, especially the wrong metal. Resteraunt kitchens are an example of good metal being Stainless steel and aluminum for the most part. They survive direct exposure to non-dilute liquid chlorine and sulfuric and muriatic acid qithout problem as long as they dont soak in it. Iron and die-cast on the other-hand kinda disolve in the right solution. Why didn't they make aluminum valks?

different chemicals have their own unique properties and problems. I have stuff that will strip the paint right off a jetfire wing but it leaves a film that won't wash or rub off and it burns when you touch it LOL.

A lot also depends on what kind of paint was used and if primer and sealents were used. Try cleaning up a variety of aquired parts jetfires and you will see what I mean. Always rinse your parts repeatedly after you have them clean or between cleaning sessions else you might make an unpleasent discovery in the morning. I also recomend soaking the parts in warm water overnight before you begin.

Goo-goo is a citrus cleaner and works for small area of non-primed acrylic paint and marker. It's best use is removing sticky residue from stickers though and it doesn't do much on enamel. [i've soaked stuff directly in it.} it is safe on metal.

Acetone [nail polish remover] is good for cleaning glass .[like anybody here would ever clean glass.... cough cough :wacko: ] It can be used in cleaning white plastic of paint but do not expose colored plastic to it for more than a few moments and rinse quickly and repeatedly else it will fade the color severly quite deep into the plastic. [see attached pic] DO NOT soak colored plastic. As it causes fading you would think it might work at removing yellow from white plastic. Yes and no. I soaked a yellowed jetfire leg in it for about 5 minutes [the plastic side] and while it definately faded the yellow down quite a bit it was still yellow, just a different yellow [if that makes sense]. Extended exposure melts plastic quite well

easy off and anything containing copper sulfate [like algeacide] is death to iron based metal. They should remove paint well but some might cause dicoloration. Easy off seems the popular choice]

most paint removers you find in hardware stores are for latex paint and are pretty useless

muriatic acid cleans well but unless your plastic is perfectly ph neautral watch the heck out. It also doesn't work on ph neutral paints [i have encountered some]. Were thick rubber gloves or have a working mans hands when you use it. Be in a well ventilated area... trust me. NEVER mix clorine [bleach] with muriatic acid as it can kill you, unless that was the point. It can discolor colored plastic and may/may not give a yellow tint to white plastic... I've had both happen. It will eat flesh.

sulfuric is typically a weaker version of muriatic [unless you get comercial grades] but without the chance of yellowing. It will eat flesh.

chlorine/bleach can/will yellow white plastic and is better used as a disinfectent. Anything that is safe on linoleum or vinyl should be safe on plastic but it usually dosen't work that well. I have heard many good things about future though I haven't tried it myself. {hey... I get the pool chems free :rolleyes:

rubbing compound is a polish abrasive and will scuff clear plastic by the time the paint is gone. Works well on metal though, if you have the patience. It does work well on a rag after you have loosened the paint with a solvent and rinsed the part off.

gasoline works pretty well on most paints and you can soak most parts in it. Rinse stuff well and rub with a rag or sponge. don't be careless with flame.

I haven't tried oxy-clean but I am curious.

How about teeth whitening gel? I'm fairly certain that it's bleach based but it does whiten our teeth.

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[Acetone [nail polish remover] is good for cleaning glass .[like anybody here would ever clean glass.... cough cough :wacko: ]

Hey Knta

if you need to clean glass...try soaking you umm .."piece" in Kosher salt for about 20 min..then the uhm.. residue just falls off with a little swabbing..i always keep my 'glasses squeky clean>>> B))

I hate the escence of acetone...

Edited by orguss01
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