Question on Gundam Markers

[Macross_Fanboy]

Well, I know this topic has come up before because I remember seeing it a long time ago. Anyways, I wanna add some detail to the panel lines on my Yamato Valks. So how good are the Gundam markers at making panel lines without smudging or anything? I'm not a pro-customizer, last model kit I built was a partially completed VF-1 and VF-0, and that was many years ago. Hopefully I can see some examples that any of you might have done.

[Cowpeeler]

Well, I know this topic has come up before because I remember seeing it a long time ago. Anyways, I wanna add some detail to the panel lines on my Yamato Valks. So how good are the Gundam markers at making panel lines without smudging or anything? I'm not a pro-customizer, last model kit I built was a partially completed VF-1 and VF-0, and that was many years ago. Hopefully I can see some examples that any of you might have done.

I find a graphite pencil works much better for subtle panel lines, if you make a mistake it can be easily removed too. If you mess up with a Gundam marker...you're not getting that off without a fight.

[Ghost Train]

There are 2 types of Gundam markers used for panel-lining.

One has a thicker tip. The gray (or black, can't remember lol) one is GM21-200. This works kind of like a wash. Fill the panel line, and wipe off the excess with a non-abrasive cloth. The excess ink rubs right off clean if you do it within a minute.

The other type of marker, and a representative one of the same color is GM02-200. It has an ultra-thin tip, and feels more like you're using a pen or pencil.

Both types rub off easily with a cloth if done fast, and can also be rubbed off via rubbing alcohol. G-markers are great for novice model building, but once you start to work with other types of paints they react somewhat strangely and inconsistently, so I would suggest graduating to some sort of enamel wash .

However, G-markers will probably work fine with toys with the error-correction methods I described above. Note: I don't take responsibility for wrecking yammies. Good luck

[Vifam7]

A minor correction and addition to the above.

GM21 has a thin soft tip point. It contains gray acrylic paint.

GM02 has a ultra thin hard tip point. This one contains gray lacquer paint.

For panel lining a Yamato, I'd recommend using the GM21 since it's acrylic paint and tends to come out easier if you make a mistake. I also read somewhere that Yamato's plastic doesn't react well with the lacquer paint of GM02.

As written above, the easiest tool is a soft graphite pencil (perhaps an artist's 2B pencil).

Edited December 14, 2009 by Vifam7

[Lolicon]

Given a choice between Gundam marker and mechanical pencil, the pencil is definitely the way to go! No pics of my Yamatos atm, but the results are the same as my mostly unpainted Alto.

[Macross_Fanboy]

A regular graphite pencil works well and won't smudge if you handle your Valks? What size is recommended, because I got a mechanical pencil in my desk drawer right now. I would really like to see some work done with Gundam markers though.

[Lolicon]

Gundam marker is too fat and sloppy for any kind of fine panel line work. I use a 0.3 mm mechanical pencil. Though plain lead works fine, on my Yamatos I used a higher density (2H) lead that's harder and draws lighter; I didn't want dark, sloppy panel lines. Not prone to smudging at all, either.

[Macross_Fanboy]

Gundam marker is too fat and sloppy for any kind of fine panel line work. I use a 0.3 mm mechanical pencil. Though plain lead works fine, on my Yamatos I used a higher density (2H) lead that's harder and draws lighter; I didn't want dark, sloppy panel lines. Not prone to smudging at all, either.

Thanks for the pic, I guess I'll go with a pencil, I got a .7mm pencil so that won't do at all, looks like I'll order one from HLJ since I won't have time to drive to a shop and get one.

[leading edge]

Thanks for the pic, I guess I'll go with a pencil, I got a .7mm pencil so that won't do at all, looks like I'll order one from HLJ since I won't have time to drive to a shop and get one.

I like the option to keep finished details very impermanent although that is not to say that Gundam markers are not good it's just that a well prepared surface maximizes the results. A careful sanding with grits ranging from 100 grit to 900 give the surface a pristine kind of look. Between the sanding is the best way to apply the color I found between 400 and 600 grit is usually good especially if it is a dense surface like epoxy resin kits and ABS plastics. A middle tone gray marker is good then black afterward when all the details are finished I like a little graphite on the surface between the panel lines just as a finishing touch. I've heard from other aircraft modeling sites some people like to use powdered colors ( pastels, crushed charcoal) to great affect I haven't tried anything except for the surface priming method and the graphite finish. Edited December 18, 2009 by leading edge