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Panel Lines for the 1/48


Jin_Kune_Do

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I was wondering if a gray "0.25mm technical pen" be the proper one to use on a 1/48? Or is a a prefered size/brand/model/color that a technical pen would be better suited for the 1/48s. I am thinking of doing panel lines on my Babies after i get the stickers from Takatoys. Hope some one an advice me.

-Jin

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I would do panel-lines first, then apply takatoys, then re-apply over stickers in lines. This helps the stickers to look more painted on rather than like stickers.

I agree (make sure to press the stickers into the panel lines as much as possible to make them look more "painted on"; use your thumb fingernail for this as it won't damage the sticker. However, before you do the whole Valkyrie with a technical pen, test it on an small hidden area to make sure you like the way it looks (contrast).

Personally, when using pens, I prefer a fine gray Gundam marker; it's a little thicker than a technical pen, but the gray is much more subtle than the black against the Valkyrie's white hide, and the ink is less shiny, more stable once dry, and can be smudged while fresh for a weathered look. It's also easy to clean if you make a mistake.

Other people would forego pens altogether and use a wash with diluted Tamiya smoke or something for an even more model/realistic look; but that requires patience, practice, and a sealer to be applied afterwards to protect the panel lining; but this introduces another problem: clear coats (specially flat or matte finishes like DullCote) tend to yellow over time and are very prone to get dirty from handling which on a model is a non-issue, but on a toy that tends to be handled quite a bit it may become unsightly.

Ultimately it's your choice which works best for you.

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You can buy Micron pens at any Arts supply stores. They are available in different thicknesses and a few different colors. Their advantage over mechanical pens is that they are self contained and easy to use, whereas mechanical pens have an ink reservoir and nib that tend to get clogged easly, and are a pain to clean; also their inks do not flake off once dry (indian ink or equivalent for mechanical pens sometimes do). Micron's disadvantage is that the ink will rub off and smudge even after it has cured so that if you ever try to clean your Valkyrie with a damp cloth you run the risk of messing up your panel lines.

As for Gundam Markers...the fine points are .04" thick and available in black, grey, and copper brown. If you'd like to give them a try you can get them at Gundam Shop or Gundam Store and More. I've used them on all my 1/60s and have had no problems and think they look fine, but that is just my opinion...and if opinions were worth anything they'd be sold and not given. :p

Hope this helps. :)

Edit: Here is a link that may be of help too: Best way to do panel lining....? - topic in the "How to" forums

Edited by mechaninac
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Gundam marker is very thick, but after filling in the line, use some alcohol and wipe it gentally. You can make it as thin as you want but it may take a few tries to get it right. As soon as you like the thinness of it, dry it immediately or the remaining wet alcohol may mess it up again.

IT works, just try it!

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I was looking for Gundam paint markers and came across to different types of gray markers; what is the difference between the fine point Gundam Sumiire Gray Paint Marker & fine point Gundam Gray Paint Marker.

The regular (old style) Gundam Marker has a hard tip reminiscent of a Micron pen. The new Sumiire(?) has a fine point felt tip.

How do you unclog a micron pen? I used a few before, and it got clogged so easy, and I just can't figure a way to unclog it. It is disappointing as it is quite expensive.

I've never had a Micron pen clog up; I think you mean a mechanical (Rapidograph) pen with a internal ink well ($12.00+ just for the nib). Those things work great until they gum up and then you either have to clean them in an ultrasonic vat: or, absent one, take the nib out of the pen body, remove the ink reservoir and let hot water flush the nib clean or soak the thing in alcohool. Once that is done you need to blow from the back to make sure that the tip is unobstructed. In the worst case scenario you'll have to dissassemble the nib which has a body, drum with needle and a plastic retainer; once that is done you have to soak, dry, blow untill clean...and good luck getting the needle back into the tiny tip cylinder hole without damaging it. :blink:

Edited by mechaninac
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Pigma Micron .005. Without a doubt, the best pen for high-contrast, incredibly well controlled lines. I've been using this pen for years (thought of it while I was inking a drawing with one), and have yet to find an acceptable substitute. Pick it up at any art or craft store; they run $2-3 per pen. I'd suggest picking up a couple, as the tip is so fine, you may damage it when pulling it through the lines (it'll fray a bit if it hits any imperfection in the plastic, but one pen should get you through a few toys before you need to retire it). I've recently started doing selective panel-lining; that is, coloring in only the more important surface details to give the toy a less cluttered look. Worked beautifully on my Roy 1/48.

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Quick, tiny little scan just to show how nicely one can control the Pigma Micron .005.

Notice how the inked portions didn't bleed out into the other panel lines at all?

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Quick, tiny little scan just to show how nicely one can control the Pigma Micron .005.

Notice how the inked portions didn't bleed out into the other panel lines at all?

Attached Image

Can i see more of your 1/48? I love the detail, i wanna use ur Valk as a model for when i begind paneling my own.

-Jin

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