GutsAndCasca Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I was changing my Max VF1S into battroid mode, and one of the freaking head lasers snapped off! Wtf?! Anyway. Does someone know the best way to get this sucker back onto his head, so that it will stay on, and still look good? Please, somebody let me know! Thanks a bunch! ---Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyatsu Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 if you still have your max vf-1a head (and you dont use it) and wanna trade for a roy vf-1s head, let me know. kyatsu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy's Blues Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 If you can , post some pics. I would say use regular super glue to fix. Just remember less is better. Be patient and try not to rush the job. Worst case would be replacing the head. If you are uncomfortable attempting the fix, PM me and I'll do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connor99 Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Get a recasted 1S head from NB4M instead of having to put the broken head laser back on . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutsAndCasca Posted September 25, 2006 Author Share Posted September 25, 2006 if you still have your max vf-1a head (and you dont use it) and wanna trade for a roy vf-1s head, let me know. kyatsu I would trade you heads, but unfortunately my Max 1S used to be a Hikaru 1S. I DO have a CF head. And I have a recast 1S head, but the color doesn't match well enough. This situation sucks, because unless I use some super-duper end-all glue, this thing will keep breaking off. AUGH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyatsu Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 well, if you still have your max vf-1a and wanna trade for the roy, let me know. kyatsu I would trade you heads, but unfortunately my Max 1S used to be a Hikaru 1S. I DO have a CF head. And I have a recast 1S head, but the color doesn't match well enough. This situation sucks, because unless I use some super-duper end-all glue, this thing will keep breaking off. AUGH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaajin Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I was changing my Max VF1S into battroid mode, and one of the freaking head lasers snapped off! Wtf?! Anyway. Does someone know the best way to get this sucker back onto his head, so that it will stay on, and still look good? Please, somebody let me know! Thanks a bunch! ---Brian muahahaha. good for you. muahahaha. buy another one. muahaha just j/k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWR MKII Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 You could always upgrade to the aluminum head lasers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechaninac Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 ...This situation sucks, because unless I use some super-duper end-all glue, this thing will keep breaking off. AUGH. Not necessarily. If you use a pin vise to drill a hole into the laser's shaft and base and put a metal pin in there as reinforcement, and use a little plastic weld (the kind that bonds ABS), the repaired piece should be stronger than it was before it broke. Believe me, this works like a charm; I just did this to the broken antenna of my 1/100 Destroid Phalanx model, and it's diameter is much smaller than the 1/48's head laser's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Not necessarily. If you use a pin vise to drill a hole into the laser's shaft and base and put a metal pin in there as reinforcement, and use a little plastic weld (the kind that bonds ABS), the repaired piece should be stronger than it was before it broke. Believe me, this works like a charm; I just did this to the broken antenna of my 1/100 Destroid Phalanx model, and it's diameter is much smaller than the 1/48's head laser's. Did this very same thing on a couple of 1/55`s and it works a charm also works on bigger things too like kids toys legs etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutsAndCasca Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 What kind of plastic weld should I use!!!!!!!!!! I meant, -- ??????????? This is exciting news! And... would a model shop have a pin-vise? Or do I need to ebay me one? thank you for the news! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechaninac Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 What kind of plastic weld should I use!!!!!!!!!! I meant, -- ??????????? This is exciting news! And... would a model shop have a pin-vise? Or do I need to ebay me one? thank you for the news! There are many available brands of plastic welds that will do the job, even Testor's liquid cement might work since ABS IS styrene, but here is one that has many more applications: Click Me The pin vise can be purchased on-line (Micro-Mark, for example), at hardware stores, or in most hobby shops; you'll also find the tiny drill bits you will need at the same places... the drill bit should be no bigger in diameter than the metal pin (seamstress' pin, for example) you choose to use. Practice the technique bellow on some model sprues, or anything, before attempting on the toy. When drilling, first mark the drill start point with an exacto knife by turning the blade to get a small depression started; that way, the drill bit won't wonder off center at the start of the process. Work the drill slowly, a few turns at a time and back off to clean the whole and make sure that you're drilling straight... keeping the drill concentric with the shaft and base, and properly aligned with each other is important; you don't want to drill at an angle and risk punching through the outer skin of the part, or the holes not match -- very unsightly. Drill into both parts about 4-7 mm depending on the size of the part, and cut the pin .5-1 mm short of the total added drilled distances. You may also want to cut the pin on both ends with a wire cutter so that the resulting cut edges, which will be flat and splayed, will act as an anchor within the holes once pushed in. Insert the pin all the way on the shaft side and apply a small drop of the plastic cement on the exposed metal... capillary action will carry some of it into the hole. Blow away from the part to dry it. Now test fit to make sure the broken edges are properly aligned (you may want to give yourself a visual key by marking the pieces in their correct alignment with a tiny drop of paint you know to be easily removed later); if so, just pull the parts away from each other and add another small drop of weld to the metal pin, and before it evaporates push the two parts together until you see a very small amount of oozing from the crack. Let the fixed laser cure for about two hours before putting it through any stress. Clean up the marking paint, any oozed excess, and touch up any paint that the weld may have damaged. You're done, good as new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutsAndCasca Posted September 28, 2006 Author Share Posted September 28, 2006 (edited) OKay, I have to ask. Is JB Weld okay to use on a 1/48 valk? I bought some today at the local hobby shot; it was all they had. Sorry, shop. Not shot. Typo. There. Edited September 28, 2006 by GutsAndCasca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jardann Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 I would not use JB weld on a 1/48. It is usually black and goopy and thick. It will leave a mess on a part that small. If that is all your hobby shop had then I would never go back! If you are going to use the pin method, which I highly recommend too, a small small drop of super glue should give you a nice strong bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.