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ce25254

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Everything posted by ce25254

  1. Nice looking kit, I admit, but I'd really rather have one with the super packs.
  2. Unfortunately I didn't really notice how bad they were until I had already painted them. In fact I don't think they are so bad until I look at this blown up picture. (G's head is only about 3cm long.) There are so many other interesting things to see on this model, I actually think I'll never notice them again. But. I think I'll try to improve at least the big upper teeth. By default I'd probably try to use a tiny bit of Aves, assuming it will stick. (I'll scrape off the paint... it is not a hard area to repaint, but more difficult to drill...) As for CA, I do have a bottle of Zap-a-gap ... do you have any other suggestions for a brand that is good?
  3. Please pardon my rude interruption of the interesting discussions about machines. A very little more progress on Godzilla vs King Ghidorah. I have the mouths painted well enough to assemble. I'll shade the teeth better later. Godzilla's tongue had no tissue under it, so I added some. What do you think? His teeth details are so soft, but I don't know if I will bother to try improve it. Any suggestions for how to do that?
  4. But it still looks great! Honestly compared to the photos of these kits in the old Macross photo books it is a whole different level of construction.
  5. Well I feel a little guilty about posting this, but here goes. I've been working on the Godzilla vs. King Ghidorah '91 'big wrap' kit. The original is a truly wicked sculpt by Yuji Sakai, often noted as a 'grail' kit for Godzilla fans, and something that I always wanted to build. Unfortunately this version is a cheap recast; I did not understand anything about the terrible recast market at the time I bought this kit years ago. Have you heard about the horrible stinky brittle resin used by cheap recasters? Missing parts? Deformed parts? This recast has it all! It supplied duplicates for a couple of Godzilla's fins, and is missing some of the spines for King Ghidorah's wings and heads. The (huge) wings in particular are just in horrible shape, but I'll get to those later. Hopefully they will turn out OK. I would not buy this kit knowing what I know now, but since I have it, I am building it. This kit is something like 18" high when completed. There are a lot of big gaps, and filling those in King Ghidorah requires a lot of finesse to reproduce the scales. I may need to rework a couple of the rear neck areas; I'm not very happy with how those have turned out. Filling in the gaps in Godzilla's arms, tail, etc. is pretty easy. For putty, I'm using Aves Apoxie. For paint I'm using Tamiya acrylics and some water-based metallic shades I picked up on clearance at a local hobby shop. I'm starting with a base coat of sort of a purple and adding Gold over that. I have some other shades I'll be adding, and do drybrushing and washes after that. Godzilla is the usual bland Anyway here are some in-progress pictures...
  6. So you just sanded down the tube surface to make the grooves, or did you do something else to shape it? It looks great!
  7. Awesome! Great job and congratulations on finishing it!
  8. Sign me up for one. How long is the assembled kit from tip to tail?
  9. So presumably this beautiful ramp will be protected by a strong top and bottom hull that can perform the Daedalus Attack on some other R/C ship, right? What is the material you plan to use for the hull plating? () I can't wait to see this slice right through somebody's battleship.
  10. I remember my amazement at the first space battle in DYRL when Hikaru is turning to look as target indicators are projected around him. Wrong aspect ratio, but visible at around 1:33 here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcANplqmGIw Next up: user interface design competition for the best way to target an Itano Circus. :-D
  11. I've been trying to get somebody else interested in this project--let me know if you want to discuss some ideas about this project. It's my first time scratchbuilding anything, so I'm fumbling around a bit. I'm still not sure what to do about the extended exhaust turkey feathers on the main thrusters, and about the changed maneuvering thrusters. Do you have any casting experience? It would be nice to make some replacement maneuvering thrusters in bulk, since there are eight of them... PM me if you're actually planning to work on it. I have a gallery of screencaps from the episode: http://tenbyten.com/images/Starfury/Lost%2...s%20Brightened/ cE
  12. It's like watching set construction photos of a live action movie as the production unfolds! I just made a pun. But I meant it... the progress is truly exciting.
  13. YOWTCH I just put a drill bit into my index finger. hazards of the pin vise. cE See my WIP Starfury: http://tenbyten.com/images/Starfury/TLT%20...20+%20Scribing/
  14. Thanks guys. I am trying to use the tape and having...well... reasonably OK success. We'll see how it looks after some paint. :-)
  15. It attests to the quality of your work that it holds up so well under close scrutiny! The close-up pictures only make it look better.
  16. Amazing, this is just great—I've been eagerly waiting to see it in action! Thanks for posting the videos.
  17. Well before posting on Starship Modeler I did a search, there are some good ideas there : http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=51113 http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=38773 http://www.geocities.com/adumas02/howto_scrib.html
  18. So I've just begun re-scribing panel lines on my Starfury experiment. This is a kit I don't care too much about, so I'm using it to try out new techniques, knowing I'll make some mistakes along the way. So far it is actually turning out pretty decent, I think. Anyway I decided to sand off all, or most, of the raised panel lines, and re-scribe them. I am using the dymo tape technique as a guide for straight lines, which works great on flat surfaces. But now I need to scribe lines around the circumference of the engine pods, which are cylindrical but with a taper. Due to the taper the dymo tape won't lay in the correct position, unless I cut it to a curve. I guess I could do this, but I know it won't be perfect. Does anyone have good ideas for scribing around a tapered curve? Here is an example of the shape of the part (I've already glued both halves together, though): Thanks cE
  19. Nice kit, but it could do with some detail especially in the cymbal stands, and I think that the bass amp isn't quite the right scale. Did anybody else notice this? Have you tried to build it with the alternate percussion?
  20. "Some comments"... that was me. Yeah, I thought this episode played well. The scene with the car on the highway was distracting for me, but otherwise it was great. I was thinking about how for live action movies, the goal of CG is to make it look more real. For animation, the goal isn't necessarily realism. The goal in both scenarios is to blend in with the audience's expectations for the medium. I am not complaining about it, though... the Valks and battle scenes look amazing. (I also liked Macross Zero a lot.)
  21. Just finished watching. I'm hooked. The last scene was great. Maybe just too much Nodame or something but the romantic angle gets me interested just as much as the mecha these days, even if I expect it to be the same old story :-) Also surprisingly the Q-R DivX plays OK on my old dual G4...!
  22. I didn't know the model but it appears I have the Paasche H that was mentioned above. I've had it for more than 20 years. It is OK, I've done all of my models with it for a long (long) time... I suppose there could be a lot better, but until I get totally frustrated, I don't plan to upgrade. I've used it for models as well as for illustration. For gradients, you probably can do a lot better. For just spray painting, it is OK I think. Examples of work painted with this airbrush: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=...&pid=569689 http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=...&pid=527690 http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...st&p=569682 cE
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