Gerwalker

I was fascinated with the Sylphede from the first time I saw them. They have that flat-top-F-15 look that is really very strange. And also the markings and cammo (it has somwething like a big circular marking all over the top) is very original. Yes please, Bandai listen to us!!

No, for paying that much they customize YOU for the helmets Don' know why but I'm more exited by the Landmate than for that GPB...

Just look for Barpharanges' custom model in the old forums. He did an awsome work kitbashing a wonderfest and an Orguss model.

Awsome work! I'm daring to critic some things just because you asked for Here I go (forgive my heresy!!! I'm not worthy!! ): I too think you should paint the blue part of the canopy since it has a big contrast with the rest of the blue (the grey is ok for me). The nose sensor does not fit well (I know it is just a half milimiter step) Why you used the normal UNSpacy decals instead of the cooler ones with the lettering around them? I've found that they are from a Tenjin's (IIRC) artwork that shows the canopy of the YF-21 opened. That's all it needs for perfection (but you can do what the muslim carpet weavers do: they never do a flawless carpet since perfection should be only found in Allah deeds... or something like that) Thanks for this wonderful modeling lesson!!!

OK. Here it is: Glues topic

This was asked in Myersjessee post (angel bird post) and Pfunk suggest me to post it in a new topic so, here we go: QUOTE (wm cheng @ Oct 8 2003, 08:13 AM) Hmm, I guess I would be treated like a kid too (at age 34) - I use testors glue too!! Although, I have been looking at some of those other types of glues now. I've used CA (crazy) type glues, liquid cement, white, and epoxies, but there are two other types that I may want to explore. One is this Tenax stuff, some kind of chemical solvent, and the other seems to be Methyl Hydrate (?) - I think they bond acrylic display cases with this stuff. My main reason thus far for staying away was that I feel I have been breathing in enough bad stuff that I don't need some other solvent in my lungs. I was hoping that I could find something that bonds as quickly as CA, but stronger and easier to clean up leaving no white film or residue. If anyone has ever used these glues, I would love to hear your experiences William (sorry Jesse for this digression from your wonderful model): Methanol [67-56-1] Methyl hydroxide Synonyms: Carbinol; colonial spirit; columbian spirit; columbian spirits; Methanol; Methanol ; METHYL ALCOHOL (METHANOL); ; Methylol; monohydroxymethane; pyroxylic spirit; Wood; Wood alcohol; wood naphtha; wood spirit; That stuff is highly toxic, mainly if you drink it but fumes are also nasty and I doubt it can be used to glue plastic. Maybe the stuff you mentioned is Methyl ethyl ketone or MEK [78-93-3] Synonyms: 2-Butanone; butan-2-one; Butanone; Ethyl methyl ketone; meetco; MEK; methyl acetone; Methyl ethyl ketone; Methyl Ethyl Ketone ; Oxobutane. This exactly what Testors liquid glue is made of and is not very toxic (at least is not carcinogenic) Avoid chlorinated solvents as trichloromethane and the like (they are excelent glues for plastic but they can also destroy your liver as well) Here you can find some good info about glues: Modeling glues Fine scale forums about glues... There is also some cyanoacrylate (aka super glue) that doesn't fog but it's very expensive compared to the normal type (I can find it in my Loctite catalogue if you want) I personally use Revell Contacta Liquid cement (the one with a needle) and super glue as my basic modeling glues. Sometimes I use Testors (I ran out of that and I'm trying to get some MEK for free instead of buying more ) What do you people use for glueing? EDIT: for adding comments and links

William (sorry Jesse for this digression from your wonderful model): Methanol [67-56-1] Methyl hydroxide Synonyms: Carbinol; colonial spirit; columbian spirit; columbian spirits; Methanol; Methanol ; METHYL ALCOHOL (METHANOL); ; Methylol; monohydroxymethane; pyroxylic spirit; Wood; Wood alcohol; wood naphtha; wood spirit; That stuff is highly toxic, mainly if you drink it but fumes are also nasty and I doubt it can be used to glue plastic. Maybe the stuff you mentioned is Methyl ethyl ketone or MEK [78-93-3] Synonyms: 2-Butanone; butan-2-one; Butanone; Ethyl methyl ketone; meetco; MEK; methyl acetone; Methyl ethyl ketone; Methyl Ethyl Ketone ; Oxobutane. This exactly what Testors liquid glue is made of and is not very toxic (at least is not carcinogenic) Avoid chlorinated solvents as trichloromethane and the like (they are excelent glues for plastic but they can also destroy your liver as well) Here you can find some good info about glues: Modeling Glues Fine scale forums There is also some cyanoacrylate that doesn't fog but it's very expensive comapred to the normal type (I can find it in my Loctite catalogue if you want)

Seems like hobby shop owners behave the same everywhere (comic shop owners are worst) They are like Seinfeld's Soup Nazi: No soup for you!! In my case Mr. Nobody ask me what kind of model I intend to paint with the colors I asked for, then he refused to sell them because they were inaccurate. The same guy is also famous for recommending resin parts and photoecht parts to a 10 years old for improving the 1/72 spitfire (first kit ever) he was buying... Hobby Nazi:- Testors glue? No airbrush for you! NEXT!!!

Hehe! Yup! That's a DYRL pilot in there! i was thinking of the same thing after painting the model... ! Wierd, but no choice Thanks for your comments! It's actually my first Hasegawa kit too! hope we can see your build up soon? Cheers! I like your model a lot!! The color is just like my Hase battroid. I Think that white is too much contrast for the red accents. I'm affraid that the difference between TV and DYRL versions are not only the pilot (nose, cockpit, etc.)... but I can live with that and as someone told me when constructing my battroid you can always say that it is VF-1J from the firsts blocks retofitted with block 5 parts and so piloted by pilots wearing the new flight suits...I love sci-fi modeling!!! Everything could be explained with just a little of imagination.

That's one of the things I like from sci-fi modeling: you don't have to kill yourself if you take an artistic license here and there. If you are pleased with a color or a paint scheme you have the freedom to do it. I used to model aircraft fighters and if I didn't have the proper RLM color or the right reference for a particular plane I knew that someone would finally pointed out and I would be accused of blasfemy... I just remember that guy from a hobby shop (an IPMS master) that refused to sell me certain model master colors because I would used them to paint a Bf-109G10 and HE knew for sure that that color was not right. We called him Nobody...'cause nobody is perfect!!!

Very noice Jesse!! I like the blue-grey wheel wells, that's another artistic license? Thanks for sharing

Congrats!!! You not only won a first place in an IPMS contest but you did it with a Macross model!! That's very good news for the Macross comunity.

Thanks once again Nanashi!! I know that this was discussed before but... have you noticed the light in the VF-1A head visor? So the MPC is based on official Studio Nue artwork????????

Agree. The problem is that the american film industry is the only one capable of reproducing that era with some detail and, of course, they tend to make just american war stories. I would like to see a good (in terms of story and hardware) Battle of Britain movie or a El Alamein based movie. The last war movie I enjoyed a lot was Enemy at the Gates, it is an excellent reproduction of the Stalingrad battle and all the hardware (tanks, planes, weapons) seemed realistic to me. I think that animation is the way to go for most of the weaponry but not only anime (although the antology you mention could be awsome) 3D animation could do a lot for reconstructing that period (I think that all the german bombers seen in Enemy at the Gates were 3D models) There are hundreds of real war stories that would do excelent films. There is one in particular that would be an awsome anime: the story of those japanese pilots and mechanics that were left in some forgoten island and continued fighting with their zeros almost till the end of the war (in an Osprey book about japanese aces they were called air guerrilla )

I wonder what are planning to do with those brushes.... B) I love the different shades of blue!!

Thanks, I'm planning to do another Bf-109 Arcadia in 1/48 sooner or later (at least I have the decals) Interesting story. I will look for it. I think japanese people had a tremendous fear about the russians during wwII. Some historians even beleive that was more the fear for the soviet russians than the A bombs what made the japanese surrender to the americans in 1945...

Bsu, I tried to remember those but only the german machines I mentioned before came to my mind. The Apache is a good example but was based on an operational fighter and the same could be say about the Calliope. Some unique german designs fought only in just one operational theater (mainly the eastern front) as maybe the M0 designs were used only during those particular events and never used again for whatwever reason (let the series finish before attacking it's lack of continuity!! ) The B-29 (not to mention the A bomb... ) is another good example: it was used only in the Pacific theater, the fact that it was never used in Europe doesn't imply a lack of continuity of WWII

Nice work!! Just a tech question: You first did a postshading and then a panel line wash? When you removed the wash excess don't you remove part of the shading too? Thanks

William, now that you mentioned the transparent parts fitting issue: I don't really know how well do they fit but the recomendation of the author of the Starshipmodeler's YF-21 to replace them with epoxy resin (he did the same with his VF-1D too) doesn't sounds good to me. It seems to be a good idea but based in my own experience with clear epoxy resins I've found that they tend to yellow with time. I've found yellowing (even turning brown) with both Araldite slow curing epoxy liquid resin (bought at a resin and plastic shop) and with the common two parts 5 min. clear epoxy cement. I have not tested all the clear epoxies in the world but I'm convinced that yellowing is very likely with this type of resins. My two (parts) cents.

The YF-23 was just a demonstrator too. It was a demonstrator!! But they used a paint that intended for an operational fighter... I Guess that at the time the YF-21 was tested paint technology was much better... William, there is a bunch of pics from the YF-23 that are very useful as references, just google for YF-23 pics. It seems like this kit has a lot of seams to fill so I feel like I will wait to star building it.

ok, the destroids seen in Zero are going to be the Prototypes for the ones later on down the road ( SW1) so to put in in English, Zero takes place in '08 and SW1 takes place in 2010, so therefore the new destroids are actually the "old" destroids. Not quite. I know I said I'd never do this, but look at the Compendium, and I quote for the Tomahawk: As you say, this is 2008. That means that this Destroid was in use by 2007, a full year before 2008. To me, this finally nails the coffin on any hope of continuity for Macross. Macross Zero has new designs for everything, regardless. So what? The 0 destroids could be just as the VF-0: designs that were lost when space war I started. During WWII there were a lot of designs that were even combat proven but never got into mass production (mostly from the german side: Porsche Tigers, Elephants, Type XXI submarines, not to mention the jet fighters from the so called luftwaffe '46, etc.) PS: And Macross Fanboy as bsu Legato said : remember Edo Andromedo and if you can't remember him that could explain (but not justify) your behaviour...

William, I think that the different blue shades and diff. glossiness (sp?) is the way to go with this plane. It has big flat surfaces that need some life on them (the starshipmodeler's YF-21 is a proof of that, nice model but has no life: all the fine details are lost in that blue and clean desert.... ) It would be a hell to paint it that way but you already did an awsome work with the Mave and this time the sucker is bigger, so gooooood luck (my YF-21 is still in it's box waiting for your tips and holy guidance ) BTW: considering that the YF-21 was based on the real life YF-23 the overall dark grey YF-23 would serve as a good guide for paneling details. Look at the clear grey at the panel lines an the different shades of grey!!:

I love that scale!! Nice models 007-VF-1!! The battroid looks great and the 5000 is gorgeous! I think that the problem you have with the pics not showing the details is that you use flash. Don't use it!! The camera flash tends to flat all detailsm, produce sharp ugly shadows and even make the paint translucent producing some weird effects on scale models. The best light source is the sun (indirect sunlight is the best) but you can use a pair of tungsten lamps close to the model (you will need to correct the hue of the pics later since tungsten lights are yellow, some cameras could do that directly) If you still want to use flash you should deviate it's light so it doesn't illuminate the model directly (there is a lot of on-line articles on how to photograph models) As for the wings sagging: some resins can be make maleable by heating them with hot water or a hair dryer. This way you can bend the parts to it's proper position (don't know if the resin in your models can be treated this way but you can try with spare parts or even the resin chunks the parts are attached on)

Sorry to read that kind of stuff here in these forums. Pablo, I smelled your intentions from the very begining and so I decided to help you to clarify them. You should be careful when posting in open forums like these. Yoshi is an old and respected MW member and he brings us this kind of excelent info from time to time. He is from France and he sometimes makes jokes about that (just look at his location in his profile) but it is extremely rude to make such statement in a thread he has started and in any other thread, BTW. One of the things I like the most from MW forums is that is really global and being so we can get info and learn from Macross fanboys/girls from around the world and it is a very bad idea to offend people because of politics, Don't you think? Just think twice before posting, that's all. Saludos, Pablo

Here is my Arcadia Bf-109G6