NZEOD

mine will be on its face or back with new joints of metal and a bearing to allow the servo to move it rapidly

I'm thinking arms, shoulders, front of the chest. What makes this harder is the figure has to have the other leg done in pieces all strung along the wiring for the servos and lighting effects. slow and steady progress though.

Ahhh I saw you come in, you had a black jacet on over the SMS shirt Yeah the translator woman was pretty sub par. Clearly didn't know what we was talking about so she stumbled over some words like Valkyrie, Walkure, Zentreadi etc. That was my little boy tearing round the back of the room and throwing the ball around before I kicked him out

Success! A few minutes in a bowl of water scrubbing with a toothbrush and it no looks like its been dragged through the bush!

can anyone translate this?

Off to see Shōji Kawamori now so will give it a chance to cure then hit it with the wet toothbrush to see how the Magnesium is releaved.

Tickets are booked, got a Hasegawa VF-0S box to be signed for a forum member and now its time to go watch Macross Zero... again

And the Deep Green layer is down.

Tonights mission... tackling the hairspray chipping technique One Wave Tomahawk undercoated in Tamiya gray primer > Tamiya X1 Black > Alclad II Magnesium > Long Life (kiwi version Future) > Hairspray... up to this point now. Next it a coat of XF-26 Deep Green > 2.5mm hex mask > XF-21 Sky Deep Green > 5mm hex mask > Custom mixed Medium Green > 10mm hex mask > XF-69 NATO Black... then... while sweating at least a little... I pull up the masking hoping like hell the paint all stays down > then hit it with a wet tooth brush focusing on the feet and lower legs then the edging everywhere

I use BUYEE exclusively and have had zero issues on 21 purchases so far this year the cheapest I have found that deck (the one with the single JBD) is 41NZD (30USD ish) https://www.amazon.co.jp/1-144-USNAVY-%E8%88%AA%E7%A9%BA%E6%AF%8D%E8%89%A6-No-1%E3%82%AB%E3%82%BF%E3%83%91%E3%83%AB%E3%83%88Deck/dp/B01F6XS1EW/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1477098895&sr=8-22&keywords=%E6%8A%80MIX The other one is about 60USD https://www.amazon.co.jp/144-USNAVY-CVN%E3%80%8CNIMITZ%E3%80%8Dclass-Flight-Deck/dp/B01F2UQ8IU/ref=pd_sim_21_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NFCNMTSEH7FN5KMKF01H

http://www.dameya.net/shopbrand/ct76/ for those of us wanting to display our Tomytec fighters

The longer vid is the builders built vid with Topgun music... turn it up loud!

its photoshopped. this is the same airframe Full code 71-0344 - currently on display at the Air Force Flight Test Center Museum, Edwards AFB, California

If you like jets and carriers, heres what REALLY goes on during a 7hr combat patrol... Could it pump out any more position marking smoke? That's a shonky engine setup for a modern ship!

weird... well its basically a gorgeously detailed 1/144 f14 with full custom decals on a pitching deck at the moment of the arrestor cable going tight. Has the cable in midair, the full control surfaces all moved in positions, elevators, flaps, ailerons, speed brakes, lead edge slats, under carriage compressed, smoke off the tyres AND engines lit up, AND AND AND the crew braced for the deceleration.

He even modelled in a Pitching deck! hmmmmm an ES-11B Catseye at the moment of being Arrested...

I still have another 4 to build and 3 on the way. Some parts you REALLY SHOULD glue... the front and rear leg plates The yellow headlamps on the shoulders, also note they are actually left and right specific. The forearm side plates. The nose cone to the black washer thing to the lower body. The backpack together and then that to the back body. The upper thigh side blisters. The nozzles into the feet. Rear head piece into the head assembly. Neck into lower neck. Shoulders need to be glued if you intend to repose it ever. Another point to note. When fitting up the leg joints to the nose cone, don't follow the instructions. They say to try to fit the rubber part first, then slide on the intakes over it. Doing this, you'll try to get the rubber bit to CLICK into position on the hip ball joint... well... it DOESNT click at all and you'll just snap it off. Luckily you get two nose cone hips! instead, fit the rubber to the intake but don't slide it right up yet, then fit that onto the hip ball joint and then finish pushing the intake down onto the rubber (or the rubber up into the intake). This will hold it all nicely together without any force on the hip shaft. Also... decide what position you want the head laser to be pointing in and set it that way as you assemble the head. Moving it afterwards is NOT easy and it feels move likely to break. I'll video the next one.

lol I did this one as a challenge on my lunchbreak today with an audience, sitting in my office. 29mins BUT I admit I didnt get the eye lens or the upper leg blisters on, only because I dont want them falling off on the trip home tonight. He's waiting on the next moron to enter my office with a question they could answer themselves... and its a target rich environment today!

you should have it together to a high standard in about 30mins

Yeah yet I didnt think Macross was that big a deal here in NZ... I was wrong

no no no, I'm trying to compare the bigger VF17s to a VF-1 and VF-11 etc 1/72 as my hall display is ALL 1/72

yeah... no. no I'm not

going to attempt too... more options for programming a random non repeating flicker "noise" code.

the model will be laid out flat on its face or side in a lake of envirotex lite resin, surrounded by fire and twisted metal so i can hide the foot joint if needed.

on what? I have a few master files, the Sortie books, All the 1/72 hasegawa boxes... or just on a bit of paper?