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Kylwell

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Everything posted by Kylwell

  1. Well you should as it's the largest Scifi/Fantasy/Horror scale modeling how in on the continent. Some amazing stuff shows up both in the contest room and from dealers. As soon as I get them downloaded I'll post some images.
  2. Limited releases, yes. Licensed, not so much. 2 days instead of one. Model contest along with vendors, How-To classes, presentations, and special displays.
  3. Funny thing is the Kentucky one got started because of Wonder Festival in Japan. Hence the similarity, As a note, it's next week https://wonderfest.com/
  4. Wonderfest, once a year in Louisville Kentucky. Wonder Festival, twice a year in Japan. Now, how do we educate the rest of the board? Just drives me nuts hearing people chat about X model that was available @ Summer Wonderfest, when they mean Wonder Festival.
  5. Tamiya clear coats are a synthetic lacquer which while safe to use on acrylics can re-activate solvent based enamels.
  6. If worse comes to worse... strip it and do it over again.
  7. Crap that shouldn't have happened? Had you thinned the clear coat by any chance?
  8. Rough up the mating surfaces before you epoxy, it'll improve grip.
  9. You can also look into focus stacking software. Makes for really sharp images of miniatures.
  10. Interesting stuff https://geocraper.localinfo.jp/
  11. I'm partial to such names as "The Giving Tree", "A Truth Untold", "Token of Displeasure", "Bob"
  12. Ah still think it needs some Chris Foss checkerboard somewhere 8D
  13. No, they're acrylics like the rest of the line, just flat. Hence the "F".
  14. http://www.soft99.co.jp/english/products/carcare/compound/compound_9800.html?pid=09145 You can probably use Tamiya Fine or even Novus polishing compound. Just get the Fine or Extra-Fine stuff.
  15. I'd look to accent the disparate pieces by differences in paint and weathering levels. Softly worn down checkerboard on an arm, deep green freshly painted on another. Then tie it all together with some dirt and dust.
  16. http://www.am-works.com/products/tools/tw007-square-mesh-small-0-45mm-spacing/
  17. CA, once fully cured, is hard as hell to sand. Files are generally better @ it. You can also try switching to a rubber impregnated CA like Gorilla Glue's Impact Tough line.
  18. I use Gunze Mr. Surfacer or Alclad II gray primer. I seriously wanted to love the Vallejo stuff but it's not really a primer. Base color sure but not a primer.
  19. I use Varathane to seal cardboard & paper. Heavy spray coat will soak in and seal it pretty good.
  20. https://www.amazon.com/Skunkmodels-Carrier-Defector-figures-SW-48020/dp/B005RJWCXM
  21. It'd be a hell of an engineering task to make one in 1/72. Even 1/100 would be big. Both would need an internal structure to keep it from falling apart. Given the cost of the 1/350 Enterprise I'd say from $150 to $300.
  22. There really isn't a finer option than Shapeways commercially. Their ultra-detail is about as good as it gets.
  23. I use Evan's Design for my LEDs http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ he's got pre-wired pico size LEDs. He'll even custom run lengths and wire in what ever you need.
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