Kylwell

Hmm, I know Tamiya makes 220v chargers like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universial-AC-Charger-Adapter-Wall-Plugin-Tamiya-connector-220V-50Hz-7-2V-400mA-/330816464964 but I am having trouble finding an AC adapter for that compressor.

Is this what you're looking for? http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM74529

Love Alclad. That is one gorgeous build.

I've had a machinist friend looking for a supplier of those blades here in the states with no joy. They're commonly used in Japan to de-burr machined parts. Somewhere around here I've got the manufacturers website.

http://maschinenkrueger.com/forum/index.php

It's always a possibility, even if he did know you. Give it a try & if that doesn't work try contacting @ Starship Modeler, he has an account there.

So I contacted the guy I go to when I have an a/b problem. He said to email him about the problem tom@tagteamhobbies.com He knows more about airbrushes and the industry than anybody else I know.

Stabbing oneself with a/b needles is a time honored tradition dating back to the neolithic eras.

please oh please in 1:48

Nice!

Tamiya bottle paints are water soluble alcohol based acrylic lacquers... Best if thinned with either of Tamiya's thinners you can thin them with water, alcohol or lacquer thinner. I prefer using their alcohol based thinner and use Mr. Color Leveling Thinner if I need a harder cure.

Give me a bit and I can p/u a respirator and ship it to you if you'd like. A good one runs $20US.

GU-11, I'd never thought about a moisture absorber like that. It could work, I've known of figure painters living in humid climes using desiccants to help things dry faster. Usually they'll put the model & desiccant in a somewhat closed container, i.e. put a box over the 2. The cardboard will also help. You'd be amazed @ how much moisture corrugated cardboard will hold. The only dehumidifiers I've been able to turn up in Asian countries are commercial units. Probably a bit much for the home.

Yup. Check your local hardware stores for dehumidifiers. They usually carry them, often for basements that have moisture issues.

Being in Colorado, high & dry, I have no help about dealing with humidity. If it gets above 30% humidity here it must be raining.

Really depends on the thread count. I'd keep it gauze-like and go with 2 layers. Part of what you want is to create little bits of turbulence which either throw out the heavier particles or spin them into the cotton. Either way, once stopped by the wet cotton the airflow won't be able to pick them up again.

Coffee filters are dense enough that getting a draw through them could be tough. Look for AC filters, they might do the trick. Could be a bit pricier but they're usually washable. Cotton or linen cloth will work well @ catching paint particles but could clog up easily. Hence the wet to make them easier to rinse out.

As one of the inventors of the SMM bucket filter, I can tell you to use cheap furnace filters to catch the particulates & an activated charcoal filter to grab the fumes. ACF can be found for humidifiers, air cleaners, etc @ hardware stores. They're a touch pricey, in the case of the bucket filter the ACF cost more than all the other parts, but they're worth it.

Gunze I thought. Let me dig out my '25.

Nice! I've never been able to get those tiny pilots looking that sharp.

More on the Mel, Snake Eye & NS LRP

Had one of those. Sold it so I didn't have to worry about those fiddly bits.

The Hasegawa anniversary edition Valkyrie. Those gold decals are a serious PITA.

Thanks! Actually no salt or hairspray on the Mel. Sponge chipping and counter shading. Still have wear streaks, rust, mud, grime, oil, etc to do.

These have progressed as far as paint. The black & red Nightstalker has the farthest to go. The green Melusine is closest to finished. Snake Eye needs weathering and a lot of gray lunar regolith dust.