MechTech

There's always one in every crowd ! I gotta keep room for destroids too! I'll use this on my smaller ships, like the destroyer in my earlier shots. Still working on the pods. Hoping topost pictures this weekend... - MT

Yeah, my wife occasionally works on plastic model kits. She isn't doing museum quality work, but her work doesn't look like a "glue bomb" hit it ! If your scared about airbrushes, high quality spray paints will get you started. I did it for years and liked not cleaning up the mess. Airbrushing gives you a smoothness and control that's hard to beat. Panel lines can be as easy as using sharpened colored/plain pencils (blacks/greys accordingly) ran into the panels. Metalic colored pencils will even give you flaked effects if you're too scared to dry brush. Be creative (read the forums here) and experiment on junky models or sheet styrene. Don't experiment on your macross masterpiece. Take care! - MT

Congratulations! Great kit, just outa my price range. - MT

That looks great! One of the better way to pose mecha in combat other than from behind rocks and stuff. - MT

Why cut your grass when you can just trample flat (and blow away those stubborn weeds)! - MT

I thought this thread was dead. It's is a cool idea still though! - MT

Thanks HWR anyhow! Are you sure you won't be over your weight limit now with that tank ! Dude, you can probably have it pull you around in a wagon! Did you find any "pods" laying around the house . - MT

Thanks olivers! I might have been tempted before, only thing is that I always run 6volts - it's just easier to put everything on it. The unit I have is smaller too (important for building in tiny 1/200 scale). I did like some of the other stuff I saw on there though! Thanks again! - MT

Hey HWR, do you have any other drawings/photos of the monster Mk 1? I'm thinking about taking one of my three and converting it after the daedalus is done. Thanks! - MT

That looks awesome! The only problem is that's it's not on my shelf! - MT

I've been building and scratchbuilding models for 30 years. I'm still learning new tips and tricks for better accuracy! DON'T GIVE UP! If my wife can do it, you can. The only way you're going to get skills, is if you use what you know, and learn more as you get older. I would even dare say you could start a thread, and ask for advice as you go on, step by step. Also do searches. We've talked about everything here from what types of glue to use to airbrushing techniques. You have a lot of resources and help right here - for free! Some of us do this professionally, and others (like me) just wish we could! Take care. - MT

That's cool Apollo! That's some serious engine power! I bet the ATF guys love you guys! You could almost start sending up toy valks on your missions and resell them as "actually launched into space! " - MT

So which satelite did they put into orbit? - MT

"And now for something different..." That looks great! I know that's a lot of money each shot. Looks great. I'm sure the other rocketeers ask, "what's that all about" in referance to your rocket theme. I know when people ask what I'm working on, I just get the dear in the headlights look - MT

It's late, but thanks HWR for the epoxy comparison! - MT

Update 12 AUGUST 06: Working on the motorized pods. I'm doing it this way for a couple of reasons: 1. The rear "thruster box" is small and doesn't sit low enough in the water. 2. Conventional propshafts would be sticking out between the box and the hull. 3. Putting the motors in pods saves space and puts most of the noise in the water. 4. I will be able to swivel them for improved manueverability. Here's some buildup photos: Here's the plastic stretched, and taped over a spare motor can to be dunked in boiling water. (Note there's two layers). Boiling the plastic heats it uniformally wihout "hot spots" and it even cools down faster. The stretched and bent plastic will now stay in the shape that's it's been heated up to. Here's a glued-up and untrimmed tube with motor inside and the stuffing box slipped over the motor shaft. The tip of the stuffing box is made from an old brass gear machined down to snuggly fit into a plastic tube later on. Then it was cut in half. The open end was slowly bored out by handrill. That large opening will have a little silicone poured into it to make a water tight seal (oiling the shaft first!). That's it for now. I get to order my props this week ! - MT

The cool part about building 1/200 valks. no one will ever see in there!

Stealthtacular! - MT

Thanks guys! I'm humbled . I'm really trying to get this thing done by December. I'm going to try and buy all the propellers next week. Let's just say the cost is about the same as 1/48 Yammie! Four 6 bladed brass props. I'm really trying to finish the bottom hull (the parts you see now) this month. The upper part will have the fun engineering parts on it like elevators, the main entrance door, loading ramp and other goodies like squirt guns (got those waiting to go). I'm going to work on the shaft seals tonight. - MT

Just popped in and saw it. That looks great! It reminds me of the Vietnam erra F-4 Phantoms. - MT

I'm surprised. I think we might see a hike in "political arrests" in China. Some of the "cheap" labor is prison labor too. - MT

Hey Cap'n, is that really wood that you've made the master out of? It looks more like some kind of resin block (kinda like the Mospeada kit). Thanks. - MT

Think destroid and armor. I was asked by a friend to help design a container that could be dropped three stories and keep an egg intact inside. Students were only given a coffee can and an egg. In a nutshell, the egg was put into the center of a foam cage shaped like a 3D cross that extended out to the sides of the can. Whichever leg of the cross strikes the ground, absorbes the shock. Together they all help absorb vibration (like turbulance in flight or in a mail truck). I'd advise making some kind of SOFT foam core that's arms extend out to the box sides. The next step is to put it all into a stiff box. IF the box gets crushed in a corner, the foam should take up the shock. The person doing the work is right about keeping the package tight, ONLY to the degree that you don't want it shifting around inside of the box. Newer computer boxes have a similar design if you've seen any recently. The box can even be punctured and the contents be alright. If it that's valuable to you, just plain packing peanuts won't do. I've packed stuff in them, putting it into the middle. All the peanuts get pushed to the sides sometimes and one side of your goods is unprotected. Hope that helps. I've had LOTS of experience packing and shipping on a proffesional level. - MT

Hey Big F, very busy when I can on this thing. It's dragging on longer than I hoped, but it should be worth it! Now I'm working on the motor seals and cases soon. - MT

Sounds to me that you know what you're doin' . Keep it up. Maybe I'll build mine someday. - MT