wm cheng

September 2, 2003

Wing folding sequence 3

September 2, 2003

Wing folding sequence 2

September 2, 2003

Wing folding sequence 1

September 2, 2003

Bottom with the centerline tank in place.

September 2, 2003

Top

September 2, 2003

I love this mean front on look B)

September 2, 2003

Walkaround... funny how the two tone green/grey blends under certain lighting conditions.

September 2, 2003

September 2, 2003

September 2, 2003

September 2, 2003

The missile launch arms are really detailed, and the wash really picks out the recesses - thanks for all the missile colour information.

September 2, 2003

A top view

September 2, 2003

Hey all,

Well, here are the completed photos of the Mave from:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...t=ST&f=23&t=208

Hope you all enjoy

(Sorry, the lighting still isn't the greatest - a bit dark)

September 2, 2003

1/3000 Yamato SDF-1 modification and paint up...

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=34450&page=5

1/72 Bandai VF-25S Armored Messiah (initial finished photos - better to follow some day...)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=38780&hl=

October 2006 Update: Partial recovery of old threads. YF-19 and Superslyph now available. Please note that old links won't work, even if you have the original thread and post numbers saved--everything's been renumbered. If you find any more, let me know and I'll incorporate them here.

Thanks David so much for all your hard work - its great for me to look back on these too! Wm.

Another update: Shawn has recovered a bit more of the database, and Jinnai found the Elintseeker threads.

September 2007 Update: Unfortunately since the last time MW crashed, we have not re-recovered the initial older links (*) that were originally found - I hope that somebody can re-find them again.

I've uploaded my toy collection to my gallery:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?app=gallery&user=244

Toy weathering and clear coat photos individually:

1/60 Arcadia VF-0D weathered... (Aircraft mode)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35120&p=1203668

-some WIP photos (but not enough to warrant its own step-by-step thread)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35120&p=1201717

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35120&p=1201265

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35120&p=1201185

1/60 Arcadia YF-19 weathered... (Aircraft mode)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35120&p=1198988

1/60 Bandai YF-30 weathered... (Aircraft mode)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=37897&p=1150247

1/60 Bandai VF-25F w/Tornado+Armored Pack weathered... (Gerwalk mode)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=40722&p=1150246

1/60 Bandai VF-25G w/Super Pack weathered... (Battroid mode)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1150935

1/60 Bandai RVF-25 w/Super Pack weathered... (Aircraft mode)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1153232

1/60 Bandai VF-171CF w/Super Pack weathered... (Aircraft mode)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1153242

1/60 Bandai VF-27 (v1.5) w/Super Pack weathered... (Aircraft mode)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1153727

1/60 Yamato VF-4G weathered... (Aircraft mode)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1154652

1/3000 Yamato SDF-1 DRYL decaled & weathered...

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&p=1154894

September 1, 2003

Fantastic model David!!

Where did you get such a complete decal sheet for this starship. I remember masking every blue line on my old Excelsior when I did it about 10 years ago!! Arrgh!! So are the windows drilled out or are they a decal sheet too? Great work - love to see more!

September 1, 2003

Hye Lucifer, try this old thread:

http://www.macrossworld.com/cgi-bin/mwf/ik...f=8;t=4555;st=0

scroll to page 2 about half way down, there's a bit on washing for the panel lines.

September 1, 2003

Hey good tips!!

I'll try it on my next models, lots of MicroSET you say - hmm, maybe I haven't been putting enough or letting enough time for it to sit.

I would warn about MicroSOL, its pretty powerful stuff and has ruined a few of my decals in the past. Good point about using it only where you need it to conform to a panel line or something - I also brush it around the edges to dessolve away some the the carrier film so it doesn't step up as much, more of a slope up. I do find that a smooth glossy surface does wonders for decals than a flat matte one - plus you can't really do an oil wash on flat paints anyways.

Hey everybody, David, Grayson, Gerwalker, lets see some of your models!! Post pics!

September 1, 2003

Yes Grayson, its a higher thinner to paint than I would use normally to cover a model. You get a more viscous mixture - easier to control to make fine lines with - and you want it to be subtle more transparent. Just becareful you are not spraying thinner though - you want it to be fairly dry when it hits the model especially when you are an inch or two away - otherwise it may run, and you don't want run lines.

Good Luck.

September 1, 2003

Hey guys,

No sun yet, but I'll try for that family shot when it comes out, maybe Tuesday.

Hey IIymij, maybe you could start a new thread and post pictures of your decals (closeups) so I can what the bubbles look like. The decal solvents and setting solutions are a bit tricky, I would only recommend after mastering regular decal placement do you move up to these, because they have ruined a few precious decals for me in the past. The solvents and setting solutions softens the decals so much so that they confirm to highly irregular surfaces, corners and panel lines, but in the process, they become extremely fragile to the point of "printed goo" as one modeller pointed out to me. Lets take a look at your decals first and see if we can solve it without the solvent and solution. There really is no need to use this stuff when you just want the decal to lie flat - and the Hasegawa decals are one of the best quality ones I have had the pleasure of working with, unlike old revel or monogram stuff.

You should dip them in room temp water for about 6-8sec, then take out - they should easily slide off with a wet/damp brush. Put the decal with the decal paper backing on your model and nudge it off with a wet brush. Keep the model and decal wet at all times while you re-position the decal into the final position. Once its where you want it, take a damp cloth or paper towel (prefereably lintless) and dab gently at the decal to push any water and air bubbles out from underneath the decal. Then let dry

Good Luck

September 1, 2003

Hey LTSO, Don't get discouraged.

Try it on a piece of white paper or cardboard. Thin some light grey paint down (better on the brown side than blue - warm grey looks dirtier than cool greys) and play with your airbrush at different trigger flowrates and different air pressures. Grayson is exactly correct, the PSI affects the atomization of the paint so much. Play on the paper to get some lines and see how fine you can get it (also notice the size of the dots in the spray pattern). You don't have to do it to this VF-4 baby, but just try it out on a piece of paper. Usually, to get a really fine line, I hold it quite close to the model around an inch.

You can see my piece of practice paper in the background - the lines should seem like a soft pencil - you shouldn't see any dots in it.

Good luck - just practice and experiement

August 29, 2003

Its not the tool Cmd McBride - just practice, pressure and paint consistency (plus a clean head and needle - preferably one that is straight and true) Make sure the needle is not bent or have any debris stuck on it. Totally dissassemble the airbrush and clean every part again - make sure there is no debris. I've been using my crappy cheap Badger 150 single action for the last 15 years! and its great. Sometimes the more expensive ones can be a bit more complicated and clog up more frequently. I really recommend siphon feeds since you can use a cup or a bottle - the gravity feed ones have the reservior intergrated into the body of the airbrush - its small, will not cover a lot of area in one go, awkward for mixing, and you cannot spray inverted without the paint falling out or spilling onto the model.

August 29, 2003

HEy all,

I would love to see some cool poses the 1/48 can get into - I thought I saw some pretty cool pictures a while ago, but I tried to do a search and came up with nothing. Sorry if this has been done - if so, could you direct me to a link to the old thread. If not, lets see your stuff!

August 29, 2003

Here's how I do it. I spray the entire tire in gloss white and let dry. Then I use the gundam black marker to trace around the hub/tire crease to get a straight line (sometimes if the crease is really small - I just let the wash pick it out). I then do a little wash to pick out the hub details which also fills in the crevice between the hub and tire. Then I use a flat black and brush paint the tire around - I don't have to get it perfect since the gundam marker line is sufficiently fat enough to give me a little lee-way so I paint the flat black a little away from the actual white hub, but make sure its on the gundam black marker line. Then I rub the flat black a bit with my fingers to get some finger grease on it - this makes the flat black look really rubber like in sheen.

Good luck.

August 29, 2003

Hey Cmd McBride,

I don't think Windex works for ModelMaster Acryls. They do have a specific thinner and a specific solvent for the Acryl line. Although I haven't used any of their "real" paints, the thinner works really well for the clear-coats - like the Tamiya thinner, there is some flow agent that makes the paint really viscous (it could be just a simple detergent to break the surface tension) but I don't know. However the Solvent, is really good a cleaning/flushing your airbrush out - they may be a bit expensive, but they really go a long way - I think it will last me years.

August 29, 2003

Hey thanks for the kudos everyone.

I am glad the flat thing restored the two grey/green tones - whew! that was a close one - and the post-it notes didn't even pull off a single decal!

Well there's no sun today, so I'll try to finish off the missiles before I take any beauty shots of this new addition to the family.

Thanks for all the great info on the missiles, I think I will follow it with a grey/blue shaft, white nose cone and silver fins - its a bit like the anime as well - I'll do a comprimise between the two styles. I'll do a yellow stripe for the live warhead, but maybe a red stripe instead of the brown to match the Yukikaze Superslyph's white missles with the red strips. we'll see.

Yes Cmd. McBride, I almost use Tamiya acrylics exclusively now (too bad I had to mix all the custom colours). There are the minor exceptions of the ModelMaster clear-coats, and the Alclad metallizers.

See you soon with some pics hopefully!

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Posts posted by wm cheng

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave Photos

Links to my old Step-by-steps...

DECALS

WASHING

DECALS

VF-4G Lightning Build Up

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave step-by-step

VF-4G Lightning Build Up

VF-4G Lightning Build Up

Any pictures of cool poses for the 1/48

Need tips for painting aircraft wheels

Any tips for brush painting with acrylics?

1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave step-by-step

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