wm cheng

The nice thing is that it's water-based, as opposed to the Tamiya stuff, which is more lacquer solvent-based. You can just use a wet q-tip to wipe the excess down while its wet so there's no sanding of any extras. It's too bad they got the B-deck stripe colour wrong, I think I might re-paint that light grey and do a wash on the saucer edge sensor bands but otherwise it seems like a pretty nice representation (if I ever get mine and the seams aren't too bad) https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1CgLE81yPn/ https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1EgrP6kLh2/

Gorgeous @Lolicon! I'm still waiting for my shipping notice - us Canadians usually gets the shaft. I was wondering if anyone on here would be getting it. Are you on the Facebook Tomy sites? The official Tomy site has been censored to be mostly positive, but this site has a lot more complaining, but also more information on fixes; https://www.facebook.com/groups/873995894505608 It seems like Tomy repairs light leaks nowadays with grey putty. There's so much talk on them. Did you see the threads with the water-based white Vallejo putty that people are doing themselves which seem to look better IMO.

Wow! Gorgeous!!! I can't believe there was no masking... oh to dream - parts breakdown must have been awesome. Love the subtle textures and shading. Congrats @Papa Rat.

That process was quite unintentional - it was a desperate repair job on botched clearcoat (Mr. Hobby lacquer) reaction to the Tamiya (Acrylic) paint underneath with the added complication that I had already applied the decals. After the repairs were done, I tried that thinned ink with sponge/brush technique and it was an ok first attempt. I need to get better before I try it on a F-14 TPS scheme.

That looks amazing @Papa Rat!!! I remember spending all this time in my youth trying to get a perfect flat smooth coat of paint and now we are seeing all these amazing weathering effects of paint fading and textures to liven up flat areas of colour - what a turnaround! So you airbrushed through the stuffing? Did you hold the stuffing or lay it on the surface to shoot through?

Oh @pengbuzz I am so sorry to hear about your bad news. You have our thoughts and prayers. There really is nothing anyone can say or do that can make this any better, only time will heal. I remember some of the happy news you mentioned when she would secretly buy you something that you've been wanting or replace some model that broke - it was pretty special how she would hunt for these items for you. All I can say is remember all the good that she brought into your world and carry on the best you can in her name and honour. Condolences, my friend and hope you return someday when you're ready. All the best, William

That's looking amazing @Papa Rat - looks like a modern kit, can't believe how well you've resurrected those old 80's kits. I just goes to show its not the kit but the person behind the knife! Wow! I'm loving your display cases and all that amazingly cool stuff!!! @derex3592

I loved those tiny turrets (didn't know you could use those on the OG Battlestar as well) - here's them on my NuBattlestar;

Huh, do the side engines not light up now on this Reconnaissance Pod?

Hmm, not of fan of either Italeri or Revell... maybe I should just wait.

@electric indigoOMG another great orange scheme! I remember that matchbox kit and it too was one of my earliest builds as a child. Can't wait to see what you do with the 1/48 brother, its such a tiny aircraft. What is the best JAS-39E Grippen kit out there in 1/72? I'd love to build one up in Canadian colors and I hope they choose that instead the F-35! @Chas Love Crusher Joe mechanics and love that Minerva - looking good!

Wow! @electric indigo Such nice sharp details and I LOVE Orange - my favourite schemes. I love the nice clean look, so tired of all these weathered planes lately (doesn't anyone have pride anymore in properly maintaining equipment?!)

Oh yeah! I can't believe how good those kits are!!! I'm still waiting for this Tie Bomber to make it in 1/72 scale from Bandai. No more AMT kits for me, I think I still have PTSD from the 80s-90s doing their Star Trek kits

Hey that looks amazingly weathered @Papa Rat - congrats! Hey @derex3592 that B-52 turned out amazing! Did the flat coat over top bring back the lightness after that gloss coat darkened everything?

OMG! That's amazing!!!

Hey @tekering I didn't know you did 3D printing, is it PLA or resin? How fine? I'd love someone to do some 1/72 F-22 landing gears someday.

Absolutely gorgeous!!!

@Chas Looking good! That tiny Max looks amazing. You should do a panel wash on them! OK, I think I'm finally done the painting! So many little parts all in different shades, it felt more like Lego in the end! Decided to do the wing folding mechanism in that interior yellow/green color like the old WWII Zeros The chrome Alclad is so delicate and fragile that if I leave a fingerprint on it, and try to wipe the finger-print off, it takes the silver off exposing the black gloss coat underneath. I hardly ever use Chrome but it seems to be the most delicate. The other colours like polished aluminum stainless steel or magnesium or dark aluminum seem fine, only the Chrome. It also didn't like the orange clear I put over top (maybe because I used Mr. Color leveling thinner in it and it reacted to the thin chrome underneath). Oh well, I can't really strip it down without damaging more than the fix. I'm learning all the time! It's so much smaller with the finds all folded up! It's crazy how well Bandai engineered their kits but they know nothing about aircraft design or mechanics and unfortunately, the landing gears look like "robot arms" instead of aircraft gears. I've put it next to my previous model of the Cosmo Zero I built over 15yrs ago and this makes that look like spray painted silver instead of real metal. (unfortunately the chrome is so fragile). All that's left is my favourite stage which is decaling. I don't think I will put a weathering wash over top as I don't think the Chrome paint can take anything on top.

Thanks @Big s, I have tried just adding water to it and it doesn't do much. When you first get it, the particles of clay are so fine that its like super thin paint, but over time (like several years) those particles seem to clump into bigger particles that don't flow as nicely as it was brand new. The best thing about it is that its water, totally non-reactive to anything beneath it. If I add alcohol to it, it would make the solution reactive to some things beneath it, losing its best quality. I always knew the surface prep was key, the better the prep, the better the paint job - but like a child who doesn't like to brush his teeth (even though you know better) 😛 I always skimp on surface prep because it's part of sanding which I hate and never have enough time for. Now that the Entertainment Industry is in the dumpster, I have a bit more time, and having a nice well engineered kit that just falls together means I can spend the time I usually take fixing and detailing to spending some time on the black undercoat for a Alclad Metallic finish. I've always interpreted the Cosmo Zero greys in the anime as a chromed silver and wanted to try to replicate that. I actually sanded down the gloss Mr. Color black with 6000-8000-10000 sanding sponge which I hardly ever do unless I'm trying to remove a canopy seam. Boy was that worth it! I haven't ever gotten such a chromed effect from all my years using Alclad Metalizers before, I could almost see myself in it! I broke down the parts to get some different shades like Stainless, Magnesium and Steel as well. Now I just have to have enough patience to not touch it for a while to let everything cure.

It's totally stable to stand on its own. Maybe not in super one-legged dynamic kicking poses, but the static standing and reverse kneeling for entry its totally stable. My main complaint is all the separate little switches to turn all the lights on and off are a pain, but otherwise a great toy.

Hey @derex3592, I noticed you use Flory too, its the best - however do you find that after a little while, it settles into little tiny particles and no matter how much you shake, it seems to be a solution of sludge with particles in it and doesn't flow as well as when you first get it? Is there a way to revive old Flory (really only left in the bottle for a couple of years)? It's expensive to ship it across the pond every few years so now I'm trying the Tamiya panel liner stuff, but its enamel so I have to be much more careful what my paint underneath will be. I just wished Flory stuff stayed viscous. I'm starting something new to scratch that Straight-Out-Of-Box itch that my previous J-20S weren't able to do 😛 Man, Japanese plastic is such a pleasure!

Wow! That's gorgeous!!!

@pengbuzz Sorry for the sad news, you and the Mrs. have our thoughts and prayers. We are with you in spirit; you are not alone. It's gotta be a better year! 🙏

Weathering looks great! Yes, I have 2 of the FineMolds kits and 2 Hasegawas and now I'm going to be collecting the new Tamiyas all of which haven't been built - looks like I may never get to my old Hasegawa. That's the problem falling in love with this plane and not getting around to building them till a better company puts out a better kit to put the older stuff to shame. I even have all the old Verlinden resin upgrades from the 90s - argh, now with the Quinta 3D printed cockpit controls or MCC nozzles and landing gears with hydraulic lines, it just makes the old stuff laughable.

Yeah, same here. Not a big fan of that horizontal blue bar across the main opening piece though.