David Hingtgen

I don't see anything they could have used for more than a second or two---95% of Grace's animation in the final ep had to be new. Pointless to alter the entire final ep just to re-use 2 secs of animation.

Ok, it's not MPC itself (found an old version). It just seems that the new version of CCCP takes forever to load vobsub, haali, ffdshow, etc. It used to take just a second or two, now it takes 10, sometimes even 20 secs. Did they suddenly bloat 10-fold in the last revision?

Ever since I downloaded the new version of CCCP to correct the issue ep 24 had, Media Player Classic loads really slowly--sometimes takes 15 secs before the mkv actually plays. As in, the player itself loads instantly, but I get 10-15secs of black nothingness before the file actually plays. Now, after that first loading, subsequent MKV files are quick--but a month ago my PC could start an MKV "cold" in like 1 sec. Anyone know why/what happened? I notice that the new version of MPC has the "home cinema" thing in the description, and I don't recall that in the previous version. (my previous CCCP was probably 9 months old). Is there a way to get the "old" version of of MPC with the newer version of CCCP or are they intertwined?

I *still* want to know why she "switched back" to her standard outfit (and when and where it happened--we see her in ep 22 in the suit, ready to board her VF-27---then she goes out and hooks up with the Vajra queen, and she's in her normal outfit again??????)

The problem isn't how to make it shiny again (I actually often make it TOO shiny when polishing it back, as Bandai plastic isn't THAT smooth and shiny when it comes out of the mold) The problem is physically removing the protruding nub itself, without removing any of the "original" part itself. I am quite familiar with basic parts removal from the sprue using nippers. And no nipper does a perfectly flush cut---you always have a nub left. Here's my typical part removal sequence: Use sprue nippers, have 1mm of nub remaining. Use x-acto, .25mm remaining. Use x-acto again, .1mm remaining. Then I start trying to get that last little bit of nub off---.05mm, .02mm, etc. That is when I start "taking out" plastic OTHER than the nub itself, in an attempt to get it perfectly level.

Trying to perfect some techniques before I do my VF-25, so I'm quickly building a Gundam. I've noticed over the years that whenever I build "unpainted" kits like MG Gundam and Zoids, I tend to spend a LOT of time very carefully slicing the sprue nubs with my xacto (seriously, 25 mins doing the thighs and feet of an HG kit--that's like 8 parts), trying to get them perfectly flush and smooth and hopefully invisible. However, a lot of the time in my quest to get every last bit of nub removed, I end up going "too far" and remove some of the plastic of the piece itself in the provess. It's usually subtle, but especially noticeable when two pieces butt together--you'll see a bit of curve/depression. No matter how careful I am, it seems impossible to remove every bit of the nub with an xacto held as perfectly flat to the piece as I can without inadvertantly shaving out a bit too much. Suggestions? Should I switch to "slice off most of nub, but always remove the last bit via sanding?" (of course, that always dulls the surrounding area) Or do I just suck at "slicing off nubs without taking too much"? I tend to prefer "slicing" a nub vs sanding on a part that won't be painted, since slicing leaves a shiny remnant that matches the bare plastic, and can sometimes be invisible, or nearly so. Sanding always roughs up the area, requiring polishing etc, and takes a lot longer. But if I keep getting those annoying little "shallow depressions" from trying so hard to slice off every last bit of the nub it may be worth it to change.

ron5864---could you explain what you mean by "solution"? Because I've used Pollyscale Steam Power Black for years (and used it yesterday), and it's not a "weathering" paint or anything as I know it--it's not thin, transparent, or anything else that indicates it's formulated for weathering effects---it's just normal paint. Do you thin it a *lot* to make a wash out of it? (In fact, it's the color I plan to use to touch up the rubbed-off spots on my v2 Roy left tailfin---it matched best of all the blacks I have)

Giant flightsuit Grace would have worked too, and been more appropriate.

For the shoulder--I think he's talking about the biggest piece of shoulder armor on top. Look around where the actual shoulder joint "opening" is---there should be a ridge on the inside edge. The "photo model" has no ridge there. I think the example one has the left and right armors swapped.

Sundowners! PS---what'd you use to cleacoat and how'd you apply it?

For the Model Master semi-gloss clear----do you mean their enamel one in the spray can, or the acrylic one in the bottle (and then airbrushed)? And what'd you use to tint the canopy--yours is the best I've seen.

Done to match his stomach grill? That'd be like molding G1 Prime's legs in yellow to match his forearm markings. Cyclonus should not have gold/tan/beige. Like I said at TFW---that's like green on Prime. It's NOT one of their colors. And as I also said at TFW---that's the worst "silver" plastic Hasbro's ever tried. Look at the G1 Dinobots--nice silvery plastic. The G2 Dinobots used it as well. And ever since, Hasbro's tried a bunch of different silvers, all of which are far inferior--they look like plain grey, or barely metallic. And Cylconus is the worst--that's "metallic off-white", not silver. Plain grey would have looked much better. Or you know, PURPLE, since Cyclonus is well-known for being very purple (or lavender, really), even among Decepticons. Look at the digi-bash I found and posted--the only difference with the middle one is that the tan and white are molded in silver-grey plastic. Looks a million times better. Cyclonus doesn't need any paint apps other than his eyes and abs. Just mold him in two shades of purple for animated appearance, or purple and silver for toy appearance. But tan and off-white do not make sense at all.

Thanks much for that--I'm still finishing up a few other things before starting my "practice Gundam", hopefully I can decide/perfect my technique before I actually get to the VF-25. Got a lot of things to try...

Digi-repaints from TFW2005---look at what COULD have been:

Jarrod--did you decal over the bare plastic, or did you clearcoat first? Also----you mentioned you've done washes before over bare plastic--what type of wash?

Uh oh. "Final" Cyclonus pics. He's about 60% tan and white. (no, not the pics from a few days ago that were obviously samples). http://www.tfw2005.com/transformers-news/u...-wave-1-165935/ How the **** do you screw up Cyclonus' paint scheme?

I believe credit for creating that sequence goes to EXO. Dante did one, too: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?s=&a...st&p=567188

Yeah, but we're not a TF forum and we've yet to get complaints, since we're "off the radar". Not that a mod could condone such things...

There's been a carrier version of EVERYTHING proposed. Including the DC-9 and 727... FYI, the Naval F-16 carried Sparrows on the main gear doors.

They made the Nyan-Nyan mascot and bikini Sheryl, but no Grace at all? Though that does give hope--if they're already doing THOSE two, surely they have at least one Grace figure planned--hopefully in flightsuit.

The longer the thread gets, the harder it is to check for previous stuff. Fairly recently made Michel/Klan AMV: Hatusne Miku/Rin duet "Interstellar Flight": http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDdMicLPXA4&fmt=18 (fully animated, too) ::edit:: And now in 3D! Some vocaloid owners have WAY too much time on their hands. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2lcAVKwE9I&fmt=18

That is beyond lame. The G1 *cassettes* had better 2-bot combiners...

I'm not sure if these have a dedicated thread, and I'm not even sure these pics are new: http://www.toysdaily.com/discuz/thread-76082-1-1.html

I've seen several "new" Conquests around town, but never another Rattler. Anyone get some Cobrastickers.com stickers yet? I still haven't stickered my Rattler.

Pre-net Macross fandom? None. I never saw Robotech until just a few years ago. "In the early days of the net" I was looking for Transformers----and remembered that my brother's Jetfire was one of the best ever. That lead to finding out it was one of the most expensive G1 toys to "re-acquire" and that it actually came from a series known as Macross. Soon thereafter I discovered Plus, Alt.Fan.Macross, and then there came news of the Toycom valks.