David Hingtgen

Quick question: What's the best cheap DVD keep case you can buy? As in, generic black ones, to replace your old ones that have gotten scuffed, etc? I just want to transfer the disc and artwork sleeve to new cases to have everyhting look nice and new. Target seems to sell Fellowes brand, Best Buy has their own Dynex brand. I'd like to get actual Amaray ones, but are they only sold OEM?

Surprisingly, my first mix worked really well, will probably go with it. Pollyscale "roof brown" is close to the molded color---and adding Pollyscale stainless steel results in a DULL metallic sheen---about what I wanted, and still darn close to the original color.

New post for new topic: The outer exhaust nozzles. I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure out how/what to paint them. I basically want "the color they're molded, but metallic". Testing out metalizer over bare plastic scrap sprue isn't working so far, it's too opaque even in the lightest coat I can do that doesn't leave bare spots. The molded color is actually quite close to olive drab. I have no idea how that'll behave when mixed with others, is it even possible to mix that? Most olive drab is very opaque and very flat, and I worry it'll kill whatever metallic I add to it. I'm seriously considering ignoring canon color and just painting them magnesium or something. (I've already painted the inner parts of the nozzle titanium and they look awesome--but I want the outer parts to contrast, and be "properly" brownish if at all possible) PS--anyone ever flattened a Tamiya gloss metallic? Their bronze could be decent if it wasn't so glossy---looks wet even when dry.

Dio---for a paint you could find at Hobby Lobby/Wal-Mart, look for "Jade Green" from Testors. (they might simply call it Green Metal Flake now) It's a bit metallic, but also pretty good for a clear green, as Tamiya paint is not that widely available. Testors does make a clear green, but will only be found at a dedicated model shop. I would suggest getting some Jade Green, and let it SIT. Let it separate out--you'll be left with some nice clear green floating on top. I used that method for years for various things. And remember, paint the back side of the clear pieces. For clear blue, Testors *spray can* of transparent blue is easy to find. May be overkill on small parts, but the only way I know of to get transparent blue without access to Tamiya. I'd use it on the sensors, but not the canopy---it is supposed to replicate the blue strip on car windshields, and is that "intense" and hue.

Only the grey and blue decals are printed newspaper style. All the rest are screened. (blue=lights/sensors, which even the people who aren't painting the kit are painting those) There's only 4 grey decals if you ignore the vernier ones. (stripe on each wing, and each knee cap)

Photocopy the decal sheet, then use that as your reference. If you photocopy the decals, then cut those shapes out of the paper copy--you've got a mask. Note that photocopiers usually aren't that good at doing perfect 1:1 copying, if you plan to do this, see if you can get a "calibrated" copier or something.

I'll probably paint the spike, decal the rest of the red on the fin.

I had a bad experience painting some parts on my 1/100 Wing Zero---had to scrape a lot of it out of various joints etc in the wings. Simple elbow/knee joints are fine, but sliding/transformation parts---do not work with the extra thickness of paint. Also, I think the ABS-on-ABS factor of newer kits is an even bigger factor. If anything, I think all the "internal" parts of a VF-25, if you must paint them, should simply get a VERY thin coating of metallic paint. Don't primer, don't apply a full coat--just mist it on enough to get "metallic grey". Let the base color of the plastic show through. Something like metalizer or alclad, which are super-thin and designed to let lower layers show through when applied lightly.

Wing glove. Where a swing-wing plane's moving part of the wing actually meets the fixed part of the wing/fuselage, is the glove.

How could they do Grapple? Grapple's main difference was having a crane boom instead of a ladder, not his color change. Classic Inferno doesn't have a ladder to swap with... Well, they could pull an Ultra Magnus. "Hey, let's repaint Prime white and call him Ultra Magnus---nevermind his distinct armor!" PS--Grapple rocked, especially in the movie. PPS--found all the new TFs today, bought Sideswipe and Silverstreak. (my first examples of those molds). Passed on Ironhide, looks awful in person, paint/colorwise. Will snag Henkei version instead, or Ratchet.

That was actually removed if you look closely. Now that the 1/72 is actually out, we have less of a problem with it being confused with the 1/60. Though now we get 1/100 confusion...

I just snipped off the launch bar, now to spray the gear (about the only parts I intend to paint, as they're completely wrong as molded---why didn't they mold them on one of the white sprues? Or better yet, on their own sprue, like the exhaust nozzles are---the gear will ALWAYS be white, no matter whose valk it is so no need to accomodate different schemes/variants) I don't intend to do anything else for a few days until I finish my Gundam. (today is probably the last day I can spray outdoors, so I'm trying to do all the spraying I'll need for a while) Also found a can of Titanium, and will spray the inner nozzles.

Graham--did you use name-brand Gundam markers for your panel lines? If so, which color? Yours are more subtle than most that I've seen---I think you did a "post-lining wipe", maybe the others I've seen so far didn't.

I find all the Lunar eps I've tried to be a bit blurry, didn't download 25.

Late edit: a swingbar would fix 90% of the *battroid* problems. (I don't know how to get the legs above the shield in fighter)

A hip swingbar like the model would fix 90% of the toy's problems. (Gear would still suck) I mean, it is possible they're keeping it hidden (like Yamato did about the -19's shoulders) but it really doesn't look like there's any way it could happen--no hinge line, joint, or anything is visible. Plus that's such a big thing it really shouldn't be a "bonus surprise" like the -19's shoulders. ::edit:: Hmmn, if the swingbar was actually in the back of the hip itself, instead of in the pelvis, it could exist in the current photos. But that's wishful thinking.

Ok, that just sucks. "Hip joint attachment" comparison: That's not bad proportions, that's just flat-out in the wrong spot. That'd be like having the YF-19's wings hanging off the knees instead of the hips, or the YF-21's tailfins on the bicep. If the hips were merely level with the crotch, it'd be bad but acceptable. But this??--they're on either side of the nosecone, yeesh.

X-21 is really thick, you could use a fork to get it out of the bottle.

How much X-21 did you use in the Future? It's hard to measure, as it's so thick you can't count by drops or milliliters or anything. I think I'll go for a "satin" appearance. PS--Partly I think I was out of practice, partly "trying too hard to use knife alone", and I am doing much better lately regarding sprue nubs. (That's why I'm building my practice Gundam before my VF-25). PPS---I tried the Gundam marker method, and surprisingly it works VERY well. On red plastic at least. I wonder if my Gundam grey 02 marker will match the dark grey parts in the VF-25 kit...

Ok, one more question: Just how bright is Tamiya "Light Green" in the bottle? The spray seems to be very bright, almost flourescent--but Tamiya sprays and bottles don't always match. I'm looking for "beam saber green" and have used Testors Sublime Green in the past for that--but now I'm looking for an acrylic substitute. (of course I find out about Tamiya Light Green 12 hours after I made my last Tamiya paint order.....)

Seconded. People are making everything BUT the shapely chicks in tight outfits...

"Hikari wo mezase!"

Micro Sol won't affect stickers at all. Maybe try Sprue Bros. full address? http://www.spruebrothers.com/ (as opposed to spruebros.com)

Quick question: What's the best paint/process to match Bandai's gold-plated parts? 99% of "gold" paint out there is more like bronze/copper, and not nearly yellow enough to match. And it's usually too grainy---I've found "smooth" silver, but never "smooth" gold/brass--it's always glittery. Since Bandai "gold" is actually silver-plated with a clear yellow sprayed over, is that the best match anyone's found? (painting silver, then putting clear yellow over it). Maybe mini/gaming/figure paint? They tend to have a lot of metallics for weapons/armor---anyone found a match? I have nearly every "gold" paint pen/marker ever made and none match--too green or too coppery. PS--hope that Sinanju comes with some nice stickers, or you'll need a steady hand to paint it---the gold "scrollwork" REALLY makes that suit, and it looks pretty bland as just pure black and red.

Micro sol etc: Will not be found at a "craft" store. Kinda surprised a Hobbytown didn't have them, but not stunned---they focus more and more on radio control these days, and less on kits. Any place that is primarily (or at least heavily) a model railroad place is almost certain to have good supplies for model kit building. If you really can't find it, Spruebrothers (spruebros.com) is a good place to order most anything. They are FAST and you always know if something's in stock. ::checks:: They currently have 9 bottles of Sol and 7 bottles of Set on hand. FYI, miriya and I both ordered our wash from there, and I just ordered some Tamiya paint this morning from them after doing an inventory check and noticing I was out or missing some colors. Sanding grades: 400, 600 for sanding down bits/nubs. 1000+ for polishing them back up.