Vince

I personally don't use anything as high as 20 psi, but then the biggest thing I've was 1/60 gundam. 20+ psi is a bit high for my teste, I use around 18 psi to spray larger areas, it works for my ok becasue I like to use drier paint on smaller areas. it has a lot to do with the mixture being spray, and the size of the surface being spray. that's one thing you need to play around and find out for yourself.

Original plan for the tv series was for 27 eps, ending after the space war ended. Since the series was created when Gundam changed the anime formula in the early 80's, sorta testing the water. The extended story line was created because people love Macross(near future, NO super human, etc.). I don't remember how long into the series was the decision made to produce the extra 9 eps though. Thats why the ep 28 and up feel a bit different. I do remember it was report by Japanese anime magazines at the time. I know this for a fact, because the first time I watch the series in Hong Kong was only a few months (or sooner) after the original air date in Japan. I think it was 1984, anyway, me and my friends were follow the anime news closely back then. I even had the first edition Macross Perfect Memory bok, I think I might still have it in storage at ny sister's house. And remember US tv season is 26 weeks, I think that was the reason for the original 27 eps plan.

just found the airmaster home page in my old bookmarks http://www.kopykake.com/ac_compressor_airmaster.html

I think air tank is a good idea. However, as you are painting, the psi drop and might not have enough pressure in a small tank to finish the painting session. As of the air brush, I think Iwata is easier to take care of than the Badgers, I would pick a DA Eclipe over a Badger 200 anytime, and I think you would have more fun with it too. Quick releases are useful when swapping airbrushes quickly. I say don't worry until you get a second airbrush. Besides, most good compressors can suppport two airbrushes at the same time anyway. With the first airbrush, I would spend my money on dual action, respirator, and a good braided hose.

Before I got my Iwata, I looked at this airmaster. This one is designed for bakery, it was my first choice. Didn't get it because of the price, it was $200+ a couple years ago. Check it out, look around online and you should be able find a lower price. example from Micro-Mark http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...roduct&ID=81748

I havea Iwata smartjet and a badger(the cheapest one).The badger is loud as of drive me crazy loud, the smartjet on the other hand make less noise than my dryer, I do like it.

In that case, I highly recommend HP-C. Believe it or not, I thought I didn't have the skill to use it, but once started, it feels like writing with a pen when doing detail work. I use to use spray cans whenever I can, and I haven't use a spray can since I got the HP-C. I use walmart non toxic paint brush clean to clean my airbrushes. I pull the pin back a bit, then soak the front end of the airbrush in the cleaner cover up to the cup between colors and spray clean with warm water, soak longer after the session. Work great so far for the Iwatas - I still use a old SA gunze which was made by Iwata every now and then. I have not need any new part for my Iwatas yet. However, I've already replaced the pin and the tip on the 360 once. A dual action airbrush wil allow to do a lot more a lot longer. Check out dixiearts.com before your buy, can't beat their prices anywhere. They are out of New Orlean, provide free UPS ground delivery for order $45 last I bought from them. Since I live in the deep south, it took less than 24 hours for the package to get here. Even you don't buy from them, they are still a very good reference.

I wouldn't think so

I think the only different between badger 150 and 360 is 150 is bottom feed, they are both very good. My picks will be badger 150, 360, or HP-C. It about $20 different at dixiearts. But I think you will be happier will the HP-C, it even make my work look descent.

I've using a Iwata HP-C for the last couple of years along with a Badger 360. I was kinda afraid the HP-C would be overkill, I've since got to like it a lot. I feel the HP-C is easier to get good at than the 360. I only dislike that the HP-C don't paint to well for area wilder than 2 inches for me. But for painting planes and Gundam etc., it is perfect. If you're getting, be sure to the optional screw handle, it is really handu painting fine lines. I use my 360 for things like base color, over coat, and such. It does paint line as thin as med ball point pen with arcylic paint, but it works best for covering larger areas. The HP-C is a bit easier to clean IMO.

it wont work for you till it is all the way downloaded Not the file, the download. It keeps timing out, I'm gonna try shutting down my firewall. Please do not disable your firewall, for the 8+ hours of download will leave your network wild open. but than if you are sitting behind a router with NAT firewall, you will probably by ok. I'd just set the firewall to allow bittorrent to access network. thanks for posting the link.

I bought a bottom of the line artograph setup, the whole thing is made out of card board and the housing of the fan unit has a 5 inches open (same size as the dryer, it is sitting on top of my dryer right now). It is the cheapest one I can find, and it actually work pretty well, the fun is not the most powerful but it does suck. Only problem is not having a top window. So, I use the same dimension and made a new hood for it. I used project board for the sides, the top, and the back, and use a piece of clear plastic from a cheap picture frame (the kind with clip on edges) as the top window. epoxy them together and I got a new booth weight in about a pound with the whole top side as a window. The new hood cast me about 7 bucks. I'm thinking about making a new one with a new base the same way, but replace the fun with a few 80mm pc case fans since I have some 32 cfm fans around the house.

I like 409 with a toothbrush

CA super glue won't eat though paint, but must be careful not to make a mess. Tester clear part cement actually works pretty good.

I think its not just how much room the jet takes up in storage, it's also of the length of the runway for take off with load. I must have read this somewhere before...

I think the dubs were ok too, and the graphics are very good. Only think that bother is it now rate Y-7 (??). I hope they are planning to release an unedit version for DVDs, sure like to see something good without having to read the subtitle at the same time.

David, sure like to see some pictures.

I've any question if you don't mind. I've been using the Model Master line or metalizers for the last ten years or so. However, I only know how to use them according to instruction. The sealer is used on primed, smooth surfaces before applying the metalizer, and I buff them with a cotton ball, Q-tip for tight places. Results are usually great, only problem is any clear coat on top of it will cover up the metalic look, and turn the color into regular metelic color. I haven't try Future yet, but does anyone know of a way to protect the metalizer and keep the shine? Thanks

I compare a incomplete F-14A kit with the VF-0S. they seem to be just about the same length, but the zero seems look a little bit bigger. I thought F-14 and F-4 are as big as the current carrier can carry. anyblody know?

Because all VF-1 fighters final production have ended, availablities depend on inventry level and they seems to have plenty. Good news is VE-1, YF-19, and YF-21 will be back in production in June. http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/zaikorisuto/VF-SZ.htm

Hey, I only translate it word to word. And my Chinese is setting rusty.

this is the English page of where this info come from, I think is legit. http://www.vfresearch.com/index_e.htm

Here's what it said: Hase. new product: VF-0B - 2 seater design version that has not appear in the video. Nose is different from VF-0S, and having the same head unit as VF-0D. available in June for 2940 yen (tax included), pre-order start May 7 for 2646 yen. VF-1SS - Re-package of remake previous kits. available in July for 2940 yen (tax included), pre-order start May 7 for 2646 yen. page seem to be from China.

I looked up some info on VASMIR Plasma Drive, although I don't understand most of how it work, I think it is really cool. I've read the Atomic plane article, it is also very cool and closer to actual flight. attached the cover.

VF-1 ejection seat handles are located at to lower part of the seat, right between the legs.