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Everything posted by Vifam7

  1. On my next test project, I might try that method. What grit sandpaper do you use? Any particular kind of sanding motion? Circular? Towards one direction then another? On a separate note, I got myself some Tamiya thinner and proceeded to strip off the paint. I thought it was going to be a painful process. It turned out to be REAL EASY. Some Q-tips, a bit of thinner, and then dab dab dab. Granted it didn't take ALL the paint off but I think certainly enough to put on a new coating.
  2. WOW, thank you for all the tips. I knew nothing about how you are supposed to care for brushes. How should I use Mr. Oven Cleaner or Tamiya thinner to strip the paint off? Dab it on the plastic and wipe off with a paper towel? Or should/do I lightly scrape scrape scrape with a knife? I assume I should be careful of not using too much of the stuff as I heard thinner can eat away/melt the plastic.
  3. Thanks for the info. Very much appreciated. Looks like you're right. I started brushing the Tamiya acrylics on some parts and they seemed to go on thick. I might have to strip that layer off. What's the best way to strip acrylic paint off? Dry sand? Wet sand? I also tried some Vallejo brand paint as well. They seem to have that thin cream consistency you mentioned above. Definitely thinner. But maybe a little too runny? It feels like I'll need several coats before getting to a solid color. Especially for the color white. This is my first attempt at painting so everything is a new experience. One thing thing I noticed about acrylics is that they seem to dry VERY fast. Certainly faster than I remember for enamels.
  4. BTW is it really necessary to prime? I've heard some folks say that they don't prime and do just fine. Also, I've heard that acrylics (even Tamiyas) don't need to be thinned. Though if I want to, simply use some water. True? I have some Tamiya acrylics and test painted some odd parts. They seem to work just fine with a brush straight out of the bottle. Maybe it depends from color to color?
  5. For smaller kits like 1/144 and 1/200, spraycan paints sometimes covers just too much at one time. So, it's time to use brushes. But I'm wondering... instead of going out and buying a standard bottle of paint and accompanying thinner, could I simply spray some of the paint in the spraycan into an empty jar or something lying around the house and simply use that? Or is the paint in spraycans specifically formulated for spraycan action? Note: I know I should invest in an airbrush but right now I don't have the time, money, or place for such an option.
  6. Thank you all the tips. In the meantime, what should I do in the my current predicament? Since I sanded off much of the primer, should I prime again? Or since it's sanded, I'm good to start laying some paint?
  7. I would greatly appreciate if someone could advise me. I'm currently working on cheap $6 Gundam models as a practice before moving onto Hasegawa or Imai kit VF-1s. I am an absolute newbie when it comes to making plastic models. So, I sprayed on primer but some parts weren't sprayed evenly and some parts got splattered with gunk because I didn't think to test my spray can before application. Doh! Anyway, after it all dried, I sanded down my parts getting it all the badly sprayed parts back down smooth. But I sanded many of the parts back down to the original plastic. Did I overdo the sanding on those pieces? Now what? Do I prime those pieces again? Or can I start applying paint? Thanks in advance.
  8. Check out what a guy in Japan did in 1/144 scale! Found this at this website: http://p144.hp.infoseek.co.jp/exhibition-06/rep04.html According to the reporter, it transforms without switching parts or taking parts off. The first photo suggests that the guy used the classic Imai 4-type kit and the recent F-toys Chara-Works toy to create this work.
  9. I received my pack of 1/144 Chara-works boxes today from HLJ. I open the first box and it's the special "Zentraedi" VF-1 Here's the low down on these "toys". First of all, it's not a toy. It's a display piece. A rather nice looking display piece. The sculpt is fantastic. There are some blemishes but in my opinion something I could live with - mainly because these Valks are REALLY small. I forgot how small 1/144 scale was. I am glad that these Valks are not made of those soft PVC plastic types that tend be used in those egg-type gachapons. BUT these Valks are VERY lightly built. As the previous poster mentioned, a good sneeze could break something - particularly the landing gears. OMG are these gears microscopic! You definitely need some tweezers or something to put those gears and hatches on. Not to mention those decals... Oh, and better keep some glue around because you are sure to break a few trying to put them into the slots (the gears sometimes do not fit well at all!). I'm just going to keep certain ones permanently in flight mode or with gears down. Overall I am happy with these Valks. It is annoying that I have to put some effort into these "toys" and handle them like they're made of egg shells. But I guess that's what you get for going this small and wanting more accuracy than the Doyusha diecasts.
  10. Hello all, I don't always come here to Macross World and I rarely if ever login or post on the forums. I do however know from my occasional browsing that MW is THE place for information on Macross related stuff. So now I request your help. I am really keen on buying these 1/144 Chara-Works Valkyries. However, I would greatly appreciate if someone could advise on the scale/size of these toys. The post by newca seems to suggest that these toys are slightly smaller than standard 1/144 scale diecast airplanes. So what should a guy do if I want to display my Valkyries with other airplanes or toys that match together size-wise? Would these Valkyries look better next to say... 1/200 scale airplanes? Or perhaps they look better next to the 1/144 scale Gundam Fix-Figuration or MSiA series? Any advice and suggestions appreciated. Thanks. Note* - I know I should go Yamato 1/48 but space and budget is limited.
  11. I think it'd be proximity fused (especially for space combat). ------- Vifam7
  12. Aren't the Russians known for creating reliable GI-proof weapons? I mean, I don't know of any Russian weapon that had troubles like the M16. --------- Vifam7
  13. I'm wondering how many rounds the GU-11 holds... If pilots need at least 10 seconds worth of ammo (assuming they fire 1 sec bursts) then about 200 rounds are needed if the firing rate of the GU-11 is 1200 rds per min. I hope I have my math correct (I was never good with math)... I don't see the GU-11 gunpod holding too many rounds though. I mean 55mm rounds should be pretty big. ------- Vifam7
  14. Anyone here excited about the special edition Final Countdown DVD release coming out at the end of this month? Just wondering since folks here love the F14 Tomcat. And this movie features actual F14's from VF-84 "Jolly Rogers". There's a nice preview review of the DVD here . After suffering with the bootleg Pacific Home Entertainment DVD, I can't wait to get my hands on this. ------ Vifam7
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