Yf-19 Step-by-step

[DrunkenMaster2]

Hi,

This will be my first step-by-step, I was inspired by WM Cheng and Ido!! Both are very helpful and been helping me for sometimes. If you have comments or questions please feel free to ask.

Here are the tools that I'll be using:

Tamiya paints

Tamiya basic putty

Model Master Lacquer Overcoat

Winsor & Newton oil paint (black and white) thin out by Mineral Spirits Odorless

Acid Free tape

Tamiya yellow tape

Airbrush

Very sharp x-acto blades

Super glue

Sand paper 500 and lower grit

Mico Sol and Set

Ok now, on with the project. The first thing to do is study your model, layout all your pieces and cut what your going to paint. Always dry fit all the parts before glueing. Be sure to cut away from the kit. Once you cut the piece off you will have to cut the nub off with a sharp x-acto blade and sand it down.

Edited March 9, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

Next choose what paint to use. I like to use Tamiya paint. I started to airbrush the whole seat from the cockpit, with the Metallic Grey XF-56, then hand painted with Red X-7 for the seat. Once that dries I seal it with a clearcoat of semi-gloss (model master lacquer overcoat). I plan to paint the YF-19 like WM Cheng, I like how his valkyrie came out.

Next I fill in the panel with oil paint very simple to do. Then seal it with a clearcoat semi-gloss (model master lacquer overcoat).

Painted the cockpit with Light Grey XF-66 and made small windows to look like space.

Edited March 7, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

Next I putty the engine along with the gun and anything that will be painted Metallic Grey.

With the Metallic Grey, I painted the engine. The yellow tape is masking the next part that I'll paint.

Here I mask off the area that I don't want to get overspray on. The white tape is acid free tape, I like this tape because it doesn't peel off the paint. I plan to airbrush Gun Metal X-10 to this.

Edited March 7, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here I painted the darker area with Gun Metal it looks black but its a darker Metallic Grey, very cool color.

With the Metallic Grey I paint the gun.

Here I use Gun Metal to shade the gun and any other parts.

Edited March 5, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

That's it for today I plan to take more pics soon. If I have any problems I'll post it up and maybe someone can help.

Sorry for the pictures but the paint job looks better in person then in the pictures that I took. My camera is a little tricky, keep getting blue and red pixels in the shot, any suggestion on how to correct this, so I can take cleaner pictures?

Edited March 2, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[wm cheng]

Hey! thats looking great!

Yay... another build up thread - just what I needed to carry me through the winter blahs when I can't build due to work. I'll live vicariously through you.

You don't necessarily need the clear coat in the cockpit area since it won't really be touched afterwards. I use the clearcoat after the oil wash because I'm afraid it might rub off over time with handling. Just a step to miss and speed things along.

Additionally, you should try the Aclad Metalizer stuff... its amazing (only airbrushed though - pre thinned and expensive). Its so much finer than the Tamiya metallics - the silver metallic particles I find too big. Now I only use the Aclad Metalizers for everything metallic. (p.s. I didn't find out about the Aclad when I built the YF-19)

[Sdf-1]

Master Cheng, I take you meant Alclad II metal paints?

[wm cheng]

Master Cheng, I take you meant Alclad II metal paints?

375677[/snapback]

YEP

[Noyhauser]

and they are only for airbrushing? No love for the paint brush people?

[Sdf-1]

and they are only for airbrushing? No love for the paint brush people?

375757[/snapback]

Yes, they're pre-thinned lacquers for ab only, unfortunately.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Hi,

wm cheng hope you can help along the way.

Here is what I have done so far. I glue the seat to the cockpit.

Here I glue the cockpit into the plane.

[HWR MKII]

Dont forget to add the clear green thing behind the seat

[David Hingtgen]

I'd pin this if I could, but being powerless and all...

Anyways---I have actually found Testor's metalizers in the bottles to be capable of some neat effects when brushed. Burnt iron especially---I'm not the only one who found that brushing it over something will give a nice subtle effect. Just stir it like crazy and take advantage of how sheer it is. Very good for streaks/stains in an afterburner/exhaust--especially all those ones with ceramic white nozzle interiors. Though valks have such unusual nozzles compared to most planes.

Alclad however, is ONLY airbrushable. (Is that a word?)

And I've GOT to get a YF-19 kit someday. I just barely missed out at BigBadToyStore--might order straight from HLJ.

[Kelsain]

Starship Modeler's got 'em in stock for about $25 + domestic shipping.

Sooooo wish I could get one, but not until other models and kitchen/bath remodel are done.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here is my pilot Isamu, sorry for the first pic. First I airbrush a basecoat of flat blue XF-8 then paint with Flat White XF-2 and for the hands I use Light Grey XF-66. For the helmet I use Flat White XF-2 and for the back I painted with Dark Grey XF-29, for the glass on the top and front I painted with Chrome Silver X-11 then painted Clear Green X-25 and Clear Blue X-23, after that dried I painted a thin coat of Smoke X-19. After I finish with the paint I seal it with the overcoat. Then applied the decals, I had to use lots of Micro Sol to make it fit, but be very careful not to touch the decal after applying the Sol.

Edited March 25, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

Dont forget to add the clear green thing behind the seat

376086[/snapback]

That little green thing behind the seat where does it go again? I plan to put one there but don't know where.

[HWR MKII]

Its right behind the seat kinda to the left.

Heres my 1/48 build if it can help

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...hl=yf-19+recast

Edited March 5, 2006 by HWR MKII

[DrunkenMaster2]

HWR MKII thanks for the link!!

Here I oil painted the panel with black, I thin it out with mineral spirits odorless. I brush it on, neatness doesn't count, I let it sit for about an hour and half, then I wipe it off with a tissue paper.

Here is what the finish parts look like after the oil paint has been wipe off.

Edited March 5, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

Well looks like it's almost time to paint the body of the plane. First I glue both half of the planes together, then I putty the seams. Sorry for the bad pictures.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here I dry fit the pieces, boy it's a great looking valkyrie. The blue on the canopy is a liquid mask to protact from getting paint on it.

Here is the valkyrie in pieces I putty some and airbrush some pieces to see if the seam shows up or not. If it showed up I put more putty to cover it up.

Here I layout the pieces to paint. I mixed up three paints to get the color that I need. 50% Gloss White X-2, 50% Flat White XF-2, and 5-7 drops of Desert Yellow XF-59.

Edited March 7, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

I notice that when I putty and sand I lose some panel the little lines on the kit. I was looking at wm cheng past project and saw that he use a little saw to crave the lines back. Does anybody know where I can get one in the US? Here is a picture of wm cheng using this saw.

[Gabe Q]

I notice that when I putty and sand I lose some panel the little lines on the kit.  I was looking at wm cheng past project and saw that he use a little saw to crave the lines back.  Does anybody know where I can get one in the US?  Here is a picture of wm cheng using this saw.

377367[/snapback]

I bought a set of those micro saws back when they were first mentioned Master Macross Modeler WM Cheng. They have proven to be indispensable. You must buy a set as soon as possible.

I ordered them from HLJ.

HERE

[Sdf-1]

I really have to get those. One question, do they replace the ordinary scribing tool then, or is it still good to have that too?

[Gabe Q]

It's still good to have the ordinary scribing tool, too. The curved saws are great for replacing panel lines on the rounder parts.

Really though, since I've gotten my micro saws, I don't know if I've ever built a kit without using them.

[DrunkenMaster2]

I notice that when I putty and sand I lose some panel the little lines on the kit.  I was looking at wm cheng past project and saw that he use a little saw to crave the lines back.  Does anybody know where I can get one in the US?  Here is a picture of wm cheng using this saw.

377367[/snapback]

I bought a set of those micro saws back when they were first mentioned Master Macross Modeler WM Cheng. They have proven to be indispensable. You must buy a set as soon as possible.

I ordered them from HLJ.

HERE

377374[/snapback]

Thanks for the help everybody. Gabe Q thanks for the link!!! I may have to put my YF-19 on hold till I get these saws. Alwhile a least I can edit this step-by-step project adding pictures and text. This plane is bigger then the other valkyrie's but a fun one to put together.

Edited March 7, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[HWR MKII]

Looking good man. I hope the link i gave wasable to help i know the resin kit is way different from this one and about 4x larger.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Looking good man. I hope the link i gave wasable to help i know the resin kit is way different from this one and about 4x larger.

377409[/snapback]

Yeah!!! That link helped, I like how your YF-19 came out, it looks great Hope my comes out like that.

This picture is HWR MKII valkyrie

Edited March 7, 2006 by DrunkenMaster2

[DrunkenMaster2]

Ok I'm back. Here is what I've done so far, the intake/fan here I airbrush light grey and the for the fan I hand painted metallic grey, then for the cover I airbrush flat white. I glued the covering around the intake, both intake fans didn't look even so I put putty both of them, then sand into the shape that I wanted.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Finally got those saws, thanks everybody that helped!!! Here I rescribe the lines that was sanded off when I putty to fill the seams up.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Finally I began to paint the YF-19

Here I use toothpicks to hold up the YF-19 so I can paint both sides. The bottom view is where I put the three toothpicks at. This will make it easier to dry once I finish airbrushing.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here is the way to airbrush both sides without putting the YF-19 down to flip sides. Here I use a needle nose to hold the YF-19. Once you have your needle nose you can flip the plane over and over to paint. Don't touch the plane let it dry overnight, if you need to add more layers to the paint job wait for about an hour then apply another layer.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Here is the rest of the pieces that I airbrushed.

[DrunkenMaster2]

After you airbrush the pieces make sure you have a place to put them to dry. Here I use an old shoe box, poked holes on the top using a x-acto knife.

Here are all the pieces that I airbrush.

If you touch the plane before it has the time to dry you might get finger prints on it. To get rid of the finger prints use sand paper (500 or 600) grit and ligthly sand away the print, then paint over the sanded area.

[DrunkenMaster2]

That's it for today Hope everybody enjoying this step-by-step!!!

[wm cheng]

What a great idea about the toothpicks!!

If you stay away from glossy paints, it eases the fingerprint situation (that's why I usually use semi-gloss - its more forgiving of fingerprints) Plus I usually spray dry enough that its just wet when its hitting the plane and dries within seconds. I can usually handle the model lightly to spray additional coats within minutes. Becareful to not spray too wet or thick - its better to spray lots of thin coats than few thick ones.

Great build up so far!