Chas

This thread needs some images at this point. Here are all of the SDF Macross vehicles I have images of that I think could work in 1/72 ( I've also thrown in some other rarely seen stuff) Now we can discuss them with a little more clarity. Perhaps we should start a thread where folks can post images they have of the more rarely seen items? Anyway I digress :Voila! Sorry tried to use imageshack for a higher res but kept getting this error mess: Sorry, dynamic pages in the tags are not allowed. What's up off-site hosting is now a no-no??

Nice score! I would check with Anasszi and see if he could wip up a set of Hasse. decals in 1/35 for you. The ones provided just don't cut it for my tastes. Congrats.

Penguin. . . you're my new God, where do I go to worship you? That is exactly what I meant but couldn't figure out how to say!

I like to use artists acrylics That I thin with Isopropyl (rubbing) alchohol, the higher the percentage the better! Have you painted any models before? If not, you might want to practice the brush technique out on some other kits as it takes time to develop the skill. Otherwise go with the spray cans and masking tape. A little tip, when painting it is always better to use more thin coats, rathere than a few thick coats. With spray paint try and avoid spraying toward the edge of the tape. It is best, I've found to have the can BEHIND the edge that you want. (if that makes any sense. . . can someone describe this better please? )

Do you mean to use the markers for the pannel lines or to paint the entire kit? I would think they are o.k. for the pannel lines (although to stark for my tastes), but if you're thinking of using them on the entire kit I would think that you may run into problems getting an even layer. Why not use spray cans and masking tape for the base coats and large areas? Or there is my personal pref. Brush painting If you go this route though you may want to practice on a few kits that are not so special to you. And remember, for brush painting with no streaks thin your paint so that it is very thin (almost like water) and apply in thin alternating coats (first coat top to bottom, second coat side to side) In my experience model building is an excercise in patience. Whenever I've tried to take a short cut I've always ended up with a lot more work because of something that went wrong! Good luck, and welcome!

Wow! pretty impressive for rattle cans. Cudos!

How long have you been building kits? What kind of airbrush/paints do you use?

Nice! very clean job. You deffinately have some skills!

Sorry, maybe it's a language thing. It just seems to me that you've gotten responses and answers to your questions. A good paint to use is Krylon Fusion. Now on the same day that Die Alien Scum! told you about it your asking for someone to direct you to somewhere online where you can get the stuff. Then, when no one responds after a day or so, you ask again. But you haven't said what you've tried or how you've searched, So it's kind of difficult to help. Like I said earlier have you tried to contact Krylon directly? I think that would be your best bet for finding the stuff.

Hey Cap. Great Sculpture! That's sure going to look nice on your shelf! I gotta start sculpting myself so I can make awesome stuff like that too!

Have you tried contacting Krylon directly and asking them if they have a any dealers in Europe where you could purchase the product? You have to try to help yourself first and then,if that fails, let people know what you've tried and ask for help. You can't expect others to do all the leg work for you.

Windex is made with amonia. Future is pure acrylic. Amonia desolves acrylic. The Testors must be an acrylic blend. Read the label and see if it labels the contents.

I'm not so sure if they would sell. Sure there are people who would buy them, but you are forgetting that the majority of Hasegawa's customer base are not anime fans. They are aircraft/model enthusiasts. Hase. has already risked alienating their customer base by even producing the Macross line. To start producing tranforming anime kits a-la Bandai could actually drive away customers who were interested in the company for its traditional model lines and want nothing to do with transforming 'toys' (as thsoe kinds of kits are seen by these people). There are alot of model companies that Hase. is in competiton with in the traditional model market, and the last thing they want to do is give there customers any reason to buy from the competition. Now, I know what your thinking. "Not many people, who like Hase. kits, would be stopped from buying a kit that they really want simply because they didn't like another type model that the company produced". But this is an issue of reputation. Hasegawa has a particular reputation that has been hard won. To do anything that could damage that reputation is not something that they will take lightly. And as you have seen Modlers have strong feelings when it comes to the line that seperates models from toys. I for one don't think that Hasegawa is willing to cross that line anytime soon, Some people, I'm sure think they already have and are probably not happy about it. Thatl being said the only way I can see for Hasegawa to do this (if indeed they have any desire to) is to create a subsidiary company with a different name for their transforming Anime kits. -Much like the way car companies have different makes for their different vehicle lines. Anyway that's my two cents worth. Oh, and for the record I wouldn't buy a 'transformation add on kit' or a transforming Hase. kit, I prefer the dedicated modes as they will ALWAYS LOOK BETTER THAN ANY TRANSFORMING KIT, and my kits are built and displayed (usually I pose them how I want them and then fix that pose with a little CA.

Well I think your best bet for sculpting classes would be your local Community College, as has already been said. But if you are serious about learning how to make moulds and cast models try this Smooth On I've never taken it. I don't know how much it costs. But it sounds like the best introduction to mould makinng/casting you could ever want. If you decide against the course you might find other useful info on that site, so spend some tim and look around. Good luck. Charles.

If wishes were horses beggars would ride.

Sticky fingers hunh? Oh right! you mean from casting.

It may sound dauntinng, but it all that is needed is some simple skills, some practise, and confidence. You might want ask around and see what kinnd of materials folks around here use when working with ABS -(i.e. what kind of paint? what kind of primer? what grits of sandpaper? what to use for clear coating/ etc.). Also try to work out the order inwhich you will be progressing through the project, you might want to write it down. If your not sure just ask the guys here. Once you've done this, then just take it step by step. The secret to this kind of stuff (at least what I've learned from models) is PLAN YOUR WORK THEN WORK YOUR PLAN As before Good Luck! P. S. It's a real good idea to practise on stuff that's not too dear to you while your learning. But you seem to know that already Charles.

No prob. I live to serve

Ah. . . guys . . . ummm. . . Check this thread Doh!

Well I've never worked on toys (ABS), I'm a model guy, but I would think it is better to strip the enitre thing and start from scratch. Otherwise you will run into the problem of matching the colour and finish of the Factory that produced the toy, not an easy task for a beginner (or anyone I'd imagine). Before you do any stripping make sure you have the stickers/decals you will need for the project, as well as the paint of course! and you might want to consult someone (Kurt?) about how/which parts need to be disassembled, 'cus I don't think you need to take it completely apart to paint it - just the main sub assemblies. But as I said I'm a model guy and I don't even have a 1/48 so I'm not sure about that last part.

No Prob lem. I'm working on one at the moment myself. Good luck!

Try this Hase gerwalk If that doesn't work search the How to build/Custom forum for 'Haseagawa gerwalk conversion' Make sure you have selected 'Show All' in the display field at the bottom.

Check the main site. Magazines>Hobby Japan> Oct. 2002. You'll find some very self explanitory pics and some instructions in Japanese. Also use the search function and check the forums there are a few threads on various conversions of these.

Pretty cool stuff there. So it seems to me that he was saying something like :in the producfion design phase the Meltrandi design aesthetic was made to resemble that of the SDF-1 to emphasize that they were a different race from the Zents. Also I think there may have been something about the SDF-1 being a Meltran ship. But that is all speculation because I don't understand a word of Japanese. Still a cool thing to see though.

Pretty cool stuff there. So it seems to me that he was saying something like :in the producfion design phase the Meltrandi design aesthetic was made to resemble that of the SDF-1 to emphasize that they were a different race from the Zents. Also I think there may have been something about the SDF-1 being a Meltran ship. But that is all speculation because I don't understand a word of Japanese. Still a cool thing to see though. Thanks Solscud007.