Rebelbananna Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 This is a longshot but I'm hoping someone might have a good idea. I have come into possession of a minty Hi-Metal 1/55 VF-1S ala' 1984 in it's box with all the accessories, manuals, stickers etc... Unfortunately the nose is bit yellow from being on display. Does anyone have a good solution for "un-yellowing" my new prize possession? Thanks, E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CID Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 This is a longshot but I'm hoping someone might have a good idea. I have come into possession of a minty Hi-Metal 1/55 VF-1S ala' 1984 in it's box with all the accessories, manuals, stickers etc... Unfortunately the nose is bit yellow from being on display. Does anyone have a good solution for "un-yellowing" my new prize possession? Thanks, E There are many topics on this matter. You can search the forum for some threads. What I know is that there is not "Magic" solution to getting rid of Yellowing on old and new valks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelbananna Posted June 16, 2004 Author Share Posted June 16, 2004 There are indeed many topics on the cause and prevention of yellowing, but I haven't discovered any suggestions on how to reverse (if possible) it or what. Probably an idiot plastics 101 question but I don't want to paint the nose or scavenge a reissue. I'll keep looking though. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chronocidal Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 Hmm... I guess you may be able to reduce the yellowing by lightly sanding the surface with VERY fine grade sandpaper... but I've never tried it myself, so I don't know if it would work or not. I'm not sure if the yellowing would continue into the plastic, or stop under the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelbananna Posted June 16, 2004 Author Share Posted June 16, 2004 I tried an ultra-fine grade of rubbing compound for automotive clear coats and it is actually doing quite well. It is tedious but I'll update on the progress and take some pictures of the before and after. If this works I'll do my Grandma's teeth next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelbananna Posted June 16, 2004 Author Share Posted June 16, 2004 Turns out my staining issues are nicotine related so my clever plastic restoration methodology is absolute poo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyboy Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 Hmm... I guess you may be able to reduce the yellowing by lightly sanding the surface with VERY fine grade sandpaper... but I've never tried it myself, so I don't know if it would work or not. I'm not sure if the yellowing would continue into the plastic, or stop under the surface. Yes, sanding works by removing the damaged plastic. Depending on how deeply the damage has penetrated the plastic, you might have to use coarser sandpaper. If the yellowing is bad, start with 600 grit sandpaper, move to 800, then 1000, and so on. You can polish out the sanding swirls with polishing/rubbing compound (Blue Magic), but that may make the plasic much shinier and smoother than the original parts. Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opus Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 Turns out my staining issues are nicotine related so my clever plastic restoration methodology is absolute poo. If it's nicotine try soking it in oxyclean or something similar that might work. If the yellowing is caused be plastic deterioration you're pretty much screwed. I'd say leave it as it is and learn to love your imperfect child. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyowelb Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 I heard that you can use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, haven't tried it though. d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godzilla Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 I heard that you can use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, haven't tried it though. d Has anybody tried this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkfan Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 I heard that you can use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, haven't tried it though. d Heard about it, tried it, then discovered that it was a lot of BS. I also tried Oxyclean before. Yet another few dollars spent in vain. Bottom line, unless the damage (yellowing) is minimal, you can't sand it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonkimberson Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 so the best way is to swap parts with a reissue or paint that sucker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkfan Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 so the best way is to swap parts with a reissue or paint that sucker? I thought that this could work as well. Unfortunately, the white plastic doesn't match as well as I would have wanted it to. Especially with the extreme white on the Hikaru VF-1A. If you try to swap a Jetfire head onto the Hikaru VF-1A, the Jetfire head will suddenly look yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelbananna Posted June 18, 2004 Author Share Posted June 18, 2004 The oxyclean works well on the nicotine stains but the yellowed plastic is indeed yellow plastic. Everyone is right the yellowing is permanent and goes all the way through. Ah well, I will love him and hug him and call him George any way... Now, off to play with my Valk........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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