Excillon Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 (edited) Ok, here's the plan. I don't know if this has been done before on here, but I've decided what to do with an extra 1/72 Hasegawa VF super battroid I have laying around. I am going to build it (a VF-1J, since most of the others I've done are 1S and 1A's, only have a couple 1J's, none super)but anyhow, here's the catch. I'm going to attempt to build it using ONLY stuff found at my local walmart, and I'm not going to use an airbrush this time either. Maybe I'm bored and need a challenge, hell I don't know. I just want to prove you can have a decent looking model without airbrushes, tamiya paints, or any other high end stuff we've come to love and gotten used to. I've already had a couple challenges with it, like having to resign myself to the fact I have to use testors paint. Also, any advice/tips would be great. I'll post pics once I get more underway, I've already begun scribing/washing parts so stay tuned! Choices are: TV Hikaru, TV Max, TV Millia, Stealth, or Dave H's arctic camo from the other thread. Edited December 28, 2007 by Excillon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duymon Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 both walmarts where I live have a lot of basic stuff like testors enamels and the lil testors hobby kits. You can get just about all you need cept for the putty and clippers. Brush painting a 1/72 valk though? OMG that's going to look...er...uh... interesting har har. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Excillon Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 both walmarts where I live have a lot of basic stuff like testors enamels and the lil testors hobby kits. You can get just about all you need cept for the putty and clippers. Brush painting a 1/72 valk though? OMG that's going to look...er...uh... interesting har har. Not brush, spray painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXO Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 you cant cheat and go to Sam's Club... hmmm... maybe you should make the pilot Sam Walton. You should make it a 1D... put Wal-Mart decals on the plane and open a McDonalds in the back seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 LOL A McDonald's Valk Scheme, err mmm nice. Make sure you only use washing products available in Wally world or your cheating. Oh and good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Excillon Posted December 29, 2007 Author Share Posted December 29, 2007 Thanks. I'm underway, maybe I'll turn this into a a ghetto style build up thread with pics. I'm thinking that with the lack of an airbrush, as tempting as it is to use, for shading I might attempt to brush on in a thicker style wash, then paint and cote. I guess I'm doing Hikaru's or Millia's TV valk, as the paint selection was VERY limited, however I found a perfect red for the stripes. I'll post pics soon, when I have all the stuff together (probably tomorrow). And Big F, I'm not cheating I got the economy size detergent ready with the wallyworld tag still on it. Also, I think a Mc'd's valk would get me sued, so I'd feel more comfortable doing a Great clips valk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 This isn't sounding too good already . A Mickey D's scheme would be funny, french fried missiles on the wings. In all seriousness, warm up the spray paint in a tub of water first so it lays out smoother. You should even be able to make custom decals from a Testors kit they sell too. The Macross roundrel with a giant "W" in the middle. - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Excillon Posted December 30, 2007 Author Share Posted December 30, 2007 OK, about 2 days into this project, and I'm already thinking of starting smoking again as another hobby. It's so hard when I look at my toolbox and see model putty, tamiya paints, Gundam markers and my airbrush. God I miss my airbrush. Anyhow, some good has come out of this little project already, to let anyone who cares know where I stand. I found a really great adhesive called quick grip. This stuff is awesome. I've still got my trusty Krazy Glue handy, but this stuff is the missing link between Krazy Glue and Rubber cement. Not as stubborn to come off, and it's almost rubbery in texture while retaining it's stickiness. I'm actually trying it out as a putty substitute on the bicep parts of the arms, to see how it works. I'm finished assembling the arms now, I've actually used wood putty on them, which seems much thicker, and is a bastard to apply. Not only that but I'm going to have to sand the crap out of it, and I hate sanding the most. Another upside is I found some Krylon triple thick clearcote. I'll post pics tomorrow, promise. I've got some paints I picked up, but I'm torn between Krylon and Testors for the more metallic looking parts...any advice? So far I'm leaning towards Krylon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grapetang Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Pretty darn ambitious (or masochistic)! Some thoughts though I'm sure you already know all this: I thought Hasegawa kits were made so well that one didn't need putty (using the melt & squeeze method). I think Walmart has liquid plastic cement along with all the CA super glue types. If they don't have putty in the toy model section, head over to the automotive section and get some spot putty. Get the red stuff from the tube - it's similar to Squadron Green putty. There's Bondo too if you really need it. Get sandpaper & paint from the toy, auto, or hardware depts. Once you lay down your spray primer (I'd go with Testors Model Masters spray but it's more expensive), you can spray or brush paint. Testors spray or the little bottles will give you more colors but again, it's more expensive. The alternative is Krylon spray in the paint section. Re: metal finish: IMO, if you're not spraying w/ an airbrush, I don't think it makes a difference what spray or brush-paint you use. IMO. I would still suggest a primer. MechTech had a good point about warming up the spray can in warm water. Just a note, use warm water; do NOT use hot water. And if you haven't brush painted in a while, thin out the paints properly & practice a little. Re: clear coats: use Testors Glosscote or Dullcote in spray or brush-on form, or that Krylon clear coat you found. If your store has the el-cheapo airbrush (Badger?), you can get a quart of Future acrylic floor wax; clean with Windex or an ammonia-based cleaner. You can also dip the canopy in it to get that ultra slick sheen. If you do, protect it from dust as it dries. FYI - This is how I built what little I've actually built. Just some thoughts. Looking forward to seeing the progress & end result! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Excillon Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 Pretty darn ambitious (or masochistic)! Some thoughts though I'm sure you already know all this: I thought Hasegawa kits were made so well that one didn't need putty (using the melt & squeeze method). I think Walmart has liquid plastic cement along with all the CA super glue types. If they don't have putty in the toy model section, head over to the automotive section and get some spot putty. Get the red stuff from the tube - it's similar to Squadron Green putty. There's Bondo too if you really need it. Get sandpaper & paint from the toy, auto, or hardware depts. Once you lay down your spray primer (I'd go with Testors Model Masters spray but it's more expensive), you can spray or brush paint. Testors spray or the little bottles will give you more colors but again, it's more expensive. The alternative is Krylon spray in the paint section. Re: metal finish: IMO, if you're not spraying w/ an airbrush, I don't think it makes a difference what spray or brush-paint you use. IMO. I would still suggest a primer. MechTech had a good point about warming up the spray can in warm water. Just a note, use warm water; do NOT use hot water. And if you haven't brush painted in a while, thin out the paints properly & practice a little. Re: clear coats: use Testors Glosscote or Dullcote in spray or brush-on form, or that Krylon clear coat you found. If your store has the el-cheapo airbrush (Badger?), you can get a quart of Future acrylic floor wax; clean with Windex or an ammonia-based cleaner. You can also dip the canopy in it to get that ultra slick sheen. If you do, protect it from dust as it dries. FYI - This is how I built what little I've actually built. Just some thoughts. Looking forward to seeing the progress & end result! Good luck! Appreciate the help. However, I can't use future sadly, as I've banned myself from my airbrush. As for the paints, I've spent a little time testing them out, and I'm using testors for the body, and krylon for the gunpod and feet/intakes. I've got a few ideas so far. God I wish they had model putty at my walmart, good idea about the spot putty, wish I'd thought of it. I used wood putty, but aside from a hell of a lot of cursing and sanding, it does the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 You could still use future but you have to do the dip method. I have done this but always have some tissue paper to wick up the drips on the lowest point on the bits being dipped. It's a lot more time consuming that giving it a quick blast with the airbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Excillon Posted January 1, 2008 Author Share Posted January 1, 2008 Ok, first minor setback. I've glued, puttied and sanded the arms, fusalage, upper torso and wings. Now, wood putty is WAY thicker than model putty. Does anyone know how to get the putty out of panel lines without digging it out with my knife, or washing away the putty for the seams? I really don't want to have to dig or re-scribe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 (edited) Please take some progress pics between sanding and smoking. Also, regarding your comment about Future, you can brush Future on -- it is self-correcting. Edited January 1, 2008 by Wicked Ace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Excillon Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 Here's a pic of a rough dry fitting (still needs a little clean up). The torso, arms, and wings are all puttied up. The head isn't glued at all yet, that's why the visor looks crooked. Didn't make as much progress as I would have liked in the 2 weeks off work I had (union machine shops rule!) and unfortunately, I have to go back tomorrow. However, I hope to get the legs done this weekend, as well as finishing fixing the awful seam on the side of the head. You'll notice I've skipped around step wise a bit, but I hate building Hase's legs, way more complicated than they need to be. Just be aware that if you expected a thorough, anal retentive build up devoted to every microscopic detail you're in the wrong thread, especially with the conditions I'm building this under. If there's a shortcut, I'm taking it. I've already taken a page from Drukenmaster's playbook with the whole if it's covered by the Fast pack, I ain't F---in' with it. That's not an excuse, as I think I want this to come out well more than any other kit I've done. My major goal is to have a nice looking battroid that will blend with my airbrushed, more superior builds. I've actually becomed determined to have this come out well and that helps curb the urge to cheat. Anyhow, I've rambled on enough. I'll try to update this every weekend with pics, but to be honest there probably won't be a lot till I get to priming/painting/detailing. Any advice please chip in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 If its covered with an FP I don't go any further than base coat paint colour. Like who's gonna see it once the FP's glued in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Excillon Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 OK, update. The legs are done, having some fit issues, as if I needed that on this of all kits. Anyhow, all that's left is to assemble the FP's and gunpod. Hopefully I'll start painting next weekend. I'll put more pics up soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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