kyekye

As I commented in my earlier topic, I'll post my progress as I go this time. Almost finished VF-25F - Basic mod First of all, I'll introduce my frequently used tools. Mr. Hobby basic Pinvice set Pinvice for Smaller size drill bits Mini Drill bits Engraver/puncher Exacto Knife Line Engraver Dremel Motor tool Various Dremel bits mini file set

Haha No pressure . I know how it's like to work on hobby at night . I'm in the same boat.

I don't have WIP images for this one (Alto's VF-25F), but I can do a WIP for Ozma which I'm making now. Give me some time to take pictures

Nah. nothing beats your 6'-0" Daedalus. That's some serious stuff. If you happen to know any source for tapered metal head lasergun replacement parts, please let me know.

Any update yet on the fingers? Show me your hand!

Thanks! I'll update the images as I find solutions to some of my problems I mentioned on the top. I found a solution for hip gun pieces, so I'm working on that now. Thanks. The hanger bay is just Kotobukiya build bases I use for photo shooting. Usually I use Hasegawa Macross stand for Valkyrie fighters display. but I can't use it for this one since the wings are folding. Gerwalk is also my favorite form as well. Su 27B? That's awesome. I heard it has serious mold details. I started my Ozma basic mode. I'm thinking about running a WIP if anybody is interested. Thanks. Actually I now see some mistakes (like some edges need more sanding..etc) I need to be more careful on cleaning parts. It's just hard to see those when I only work at nights....

Wow! Lots of compliments from wm cheng. Thanks! For the metal nozzle parts, I used metal tube beads and Stainless Steel Balls. I get them from 'Mechaskunk' and also a Korean site called 'modelup'. They have many metal and glass option parts. modelup's metal tubes actually have better edge cut. That's the one i used on front top and wing edges. For the paint, It's actually lots of layers. The photo just came out a bit too bright under sunlight from window. The actual color has blue-ish grey under tone. The Base layer was lacqer blue grey (Mr. Hobby Navy blue + Medium Blue + SuperWhite) same color as the joints basically. And I did different layers of superwhite (Mr. Hobby) on top. Most parts are 2-coat, but the nose and front bottom I did 3 coats. So they look more ivory white (kinda like old Phantom F-4). And then Lacqer Clear coat, and then lining with enamel (dark earth for joints and dirty brown for whites) + decals. And then Top coat (Mr. Hobby Acrylic). Yeah. the chipping on the decal.... If I do 1-2 more acrylic top coat, maybe it will protect it better. currently I didn't glue all the parts yet (that's why you can see some seams) I need to figure out a couple of things before I finalize this kit and move onto Ozma's. The warning decals are mostly leftover from hasegawa VF-1 kits. They always come in handy The photo etching on chest was actually my second choice. Originally i planned to use strip with straight lines, but I just couldn't fit them correctly at an odd angle.. Thanks for your kind comments. I'm also following your step by step mod. It's always great to see other people's different approach! P.S.: My magnet positions are slightly different from yours but pretty close . Originally I pushed them in and cover the surface with putty, but it half the magnet power, so I ended up exposing them. (I did paint them with metal primer and super white

Yeah. The decal only covers the top of those puzzle pieces. So when you put it in Fighter form, it shows white edges. I hated it, so made a lines around them and painted the sides. The pieces are tiny thou. I poked my fingers a couple of times with engraver....

Oh well, then. Bandai is putting out the rest of VF-25s and also Super Packs around Feb - March, and I'll be building them all one at a time. You are more of a 'focused on one model' type, so I'll check out your 'simpler landing gear mod' whenever you're done with it. Maybe I can apply it to Ruka's VF-25 later

Thanks. The reason I gave up on landing gear mod was mostly due to the article from Dengeki Hobby Magazine January issue. The mod was too much to make it work, the modeler had to cut out a big section and extend some parts. I thought that was too much on 'already complicated' transforming mechanism'. If you find out simpler way of doing the landing gear mod, I will certainly use it for my next Ozma VF-25S which I already started

That's the most wearing area so far. You need to put shoulder together and shove them in the tight back armor area. Lots of friction. Top coating (Acrylic) doesn't protect it either. I was seriously thinking about using Urethan coating. But again, I'll fix whatever damage it gets before putting it into my display case. So i don't worry about it too much Some clear parts also need more trimming. Some of them are so tiny, and I only noticed it while taking pictures.

The image name says it's fingers. So I'm guessing it's articulating finger mod. The fingers are tiny, so camera can't get too close even with MACRO, i guess.

Since wm cheng is already doing a fantastic WIP, I guess I can just post my almost finished VF-25F Bandai Model kit images. So far, i put in about 3 weeks (just nights holidays and weekends). 1st week was spent for parts cleaning/cutting, making clear parts, punching holes and fitting custom parts. 2nd week was spent for adding magnets and other metal parts/etching parts 3rd week was all painting! I really wanted to do the landing gear mod, but I just couldn't find room to fit them in without sacrificing some other stuff. So I gave up on that. Here are the stuff I modified so far. Most of modification idea came from various magazines (mostly HJ Nov issue) and other build samples. I've transformed it back and forth many times already. so some paint and decal got scratched off.. I will fix it later along with canopy future treatment when I'm almost done playing with it *Overall: rivet holes. All circle 'Maruichi' molds are replaced with option parts *Head: metal ball sensor. glear green lens on top duct. *Chest: intake hole/metal etching grill. center red glass lens, pieces side lines engraving *Arms : Lower arm mod to hold gunpod. Magnet mod. shoulder-holes punched *Legs/wings : metal option nozzle parts. clear lamp parts, metal machine gun parts. puch through machine gun grill parts. Major Magnet mod. *Cockpit: added hinge and small pin for canopy opening. *Gunpod : all gas grill holes punch through. clear lens replacements. Barrel tip mod. Grip mod for under-mounting. Mini-peg for under-mounting. *Landing gears : option tube/metal parts and lens replacements. Stuff left to do and fix.... *First of all, I need to find a way to fit the last puzzle piece in right position. That's the machinegun side panel. It's always loose in different ways. *Head laser metal mod. (one of them broke when i was transforming/turning) I temporarily fixed it by inserting metal rod, but I want to find a metal option parts to replace them. *Side machinegun mod. I made them with metal rod and tube, but was never happy with them. I need some suggestion. *The shield circular option part I used was too thick. I'll need to sand them a little or find parts with less thickness. Anyways, here are the images from today.

That guy glued the shield parts with knife in it!! LOL! No knife for him He also says the hands are a bit loose and hard to pose with legs open.. I'll have to see it myself. Ozma is planned for November....

Just got mine, and transformed it back and forth. a couple of things to be careful! (and not described in manual..) 1. sliding engine pack foward is fine, but sliding it back to original position is pain in the %^7# !! There is small pin holding it in position, but it just won't let go when you pull it back. lift it a little and slide back. (need some force. i thought i was breaking mine.. ) 2. attaching the fastpack is also painful process. Specially with stand attachment. It just doesn't make sense logically . So, you need some wiggling back and forth to make it fit. 3. Also, it's very hard to put legs back in for Fighter mode. Legs have to in exact rotation angle to fit the bottom cover in good lock position. This needs some practice Overall, it's very solid piece of work.

I'm between Step 5 and 6...