kyekye
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Delayed by work overload! I took some pictures over the weekend, but my stupid camera wasn't capturing the details and made images kinda filtered look... I'll need to re-take them with different camera. Anyways, here are some of finished images. Some are edited in Photoshop for better background fun Cruiser Mode Docked on South Ataria Island Aerial View Cruiser Mode Docked on South Ataria Island Aerial View Cruiser Mode Docked Ground View - I also made a front landing gear for better front/back balance Cruiser Mode in space - front view A Cruiser Mode in space - front view B Cruiser Mode in space - back view Cruiser Mode in space - Destroid Monster Firing Transformation!!! Attack Mode Attack Mode with Cannon down Attack Mode with Cannon Charging!! More pictures coming soon
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Last minute addition along with 2 more launch arms from ARMD. 1/3000 Destroid Monster!! I made 3 standing points on SDF-1 with mini magnet for this guy (2 on each ARMD top and 1 on main cannon) And I'm done!!! I'll take some pictures tomorrow when I have better lighting!
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Haha You guys read my mind about DYRL game scenes I'm still working on ARMD, so later images will have them on. Also the reverse side of the form board will have the space background - so it will be reversible!
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Still going through some weathering and have last top coating left, but I wanted to check the background board after putting together parts. I really want to make a simple diorama base for this, but not enough time right now. So just a simple printout of my quick Photoshop version of this screen on the cheap form-board will be used for now Here is a quick test shot for teaser It's almost there!!
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They are NC decals from HiQParts. I ordered them from HLJ a while ago. Here is decal page link. It looks like most of them are still in Stock. There are 1/144 and 1/100. The one i got was 1/144
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As I was putting them back together, one of the lock spring on back of the knee click joint sprang and flew off!! It took me almost an hour finding it in the carpet.. I'm treating this like a model kit which I always wished for - but never got.. (Thanks Yamato! in 2 different ways! ) It would be like comparing 1/48 Yamato VF-1 toy and Hasegawa VF-1 model kit. If Yamato releases model kit version later, then I'm gonna feel like crap.. Hehe, I was inspired by your step by step pages and learned many tricks from you and other masters. I'm glad you like this progress These are the decal I used most. I have red, white, dark gray of the same thing and used sparingly depending on the base color. It does say 'for 1/144 scale' but most of them except for the bottom right labels are very small and worked OK for this one. If I get a good lighting (1 sunny day during weekend, i hope), my wife's camera can probably do a good job. I wonder which section I need to post them thou. It's a toy, but not so toy anymore..
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After gloss/semi-glossy clear coating, went through decal pass. Thing is - there are not much reference for the SDF-1 decals. So I was using some of the new illustrations by Tenjin san and Macross Plus screens. I think I used about 800-1000 micro decals on this thing! (I'm pretty sure because the decal-sheet I'm using has about 700 on each sheet, and I used about half of 3 sheets) Because they are tiny, they don't stand out much and kinda works for 1/3000 model, but -boy - they are pain in the #%$ to apply! (X 1000 times) Sprayed Matt Top Coat after decal work was done. It tones color and decal together as well. After that, I brush-painted clear-glossy parts with 'Future!' to give extra clean glossiness. Anyways, here are the parts with decals applied. Main Body Mostly small red decals Chest Block Mostly red ones and some white ones. White ones look too clean, so I'll put some weathering after putting it back. Main Cannon Before the decal pass, I fixed some parts that colors didn't match. Also added some weathering around exhaust vent area. No more color popping! Head Bridge Put the parts together. Also added decal on the clear shield (but my camera macro couldn't catch it..) Shoulder Decals here and there. Legs & Feet My favorite parts! It's more fun when it's not all gray... Again, some white decals stand out a bit. Will be toned down during top weathering pass. ARMD 1 & 2 Lauch Gate detail Paint and Decal Work I used tiny decal strip on the inside of launch gate, but used paint on the outer gate frame inside. I thought about a couple of different ways of doing this part, but I decided to go with the long lasting/durable paint method. I guess it came out allright As i was taking pictures, I noticed that my camera does auto color correction when it sees blue and red together and make the red pink-ish.... It's not that pink magenta.., but I'm too lazy to fix colors in Photoshop.. Now I'm gonna start putting them back together for light weathering on some parts. and one more flat-coating!! and I'll be done!! ~~ I gotta plan for the display case as well... Please let me know if anyone has good suggestion for display case that works for both modes.
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Thanks! Haha..And my eyesight is getting worse and worse..I need some Blueberries!! Thanks for your advice! I'm already going back and forth with painting and detailing Really can't help it with this one. The red was my 2nd try. The first was non-metalic dark red, but it looked a little too toy-ish, so I re-did it with a little metalic touch. I think it came out OK.. I'm re-assembling some parts blocks for clear coating before decals. Decal pass alone will be another week... I should post some images of assembled blocks
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Looks Awesome!! This is like a grand scale playground for detailing fun!!
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I'm using all mixed. 0.5mm and 1mm Stainless Steel balls from online shop (it's closed now T.T) 0.5mm and 1mm Clear Colored beads from shop I found online. For the clear beads, you need to make a 0.5mm holes with pinvice (also 0.5mm deep) and paint silver inside before fixing the beads for better reflectivity. Otherwise they just look dark. Word of advice .. Don't get caught by your wife (or girl friend) while playing with these pretty beads..They gonna kick your A&% and you gonna scream like a little girl
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Sorry for the late update. I've been busy with work and some parts detailing... Thanks to the weekend, i was able to take some photos using 'sunlight'!!! :ph34r: And I realized that my work area is very dusty!! (probably stuff from airbrushing) I'll have to clean the area and the parts before doing clear coating!! Head Bridge and Main Body * A quick wash pass (dark blue gray) + various metal parts (balls and tubes) + Clear color lenses..etc. * Also painted the bridge detail and clear bridge monitor with clear blue. * Antenna with orange gold + Clear red lenses. * Used 'Future' on new bridge shield. Shoulder parts * a quick wash pass (dark blue gray) * Clear red lenses on front/back panels and Antenna. Chest Block * a quick wash pass + Detail painting (Inside chest block frame..etc) * metal tube lens frames + Clear red lenses + Stainless steel balls for corners Main Cannons * a quick wash pass + Detail painting * No painting on the rotation joints..I'll have to leave them unpainted.... Right Leg * a quick wash pass + Detail painting * Clear red/blue/silver lenses on front/back/side panels Left Leg * a quick wash pass + Detail painting * Clear red/blue/silver lenses on front/back/side panels * Still need to paint the front panel pipes and switch area. * I might need to put a cover on the ceiling. Exposed LEDs bother me a lot. I was aiming for the end of Feb to finish this, but it looks like it will bleed into March a little bit. Just too many parts!!
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Since I'm done with lighting fun, I started painting the leg and other non-gray parts. For the Blue tone parts, I painted the base somewhat dark Navy-blue-ish color and gave the same Aztec panel patch treatment. Still need to do one more pass with darker tone patches on blue parts. Next, I did feet ivory-gold-brown color and other mechanical detail parts. It might not show up in the photos, but the mechanical detail parts have 4 subtle different color tone shades Also painted the metallic red inside the chest nozzles. Close up view of Mechanical detail parts. These have a quick wash pass to bring out details. (I'm doing Lacquer - enamel method By the way) Test Fitting the feet parts and chest parts for color check. These parts still need panel lining and wash pass. Checking from Different angle.. It looks like it's getting there.. I'll also need to decide the amount of weathering soon..
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Thanks for keep checking my slow-build. I'll try to finish this by the end of Feb. I'll have to.. before work gets busy.
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Very nice step by step build! Many cool detail parts you're using there!~ Great job with display monitor as well
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So, I did a quick rewiring on 3 way switch and added 2 more LEDs on the ceiling part. Since the ceiling light is mostly for the view when the cover is closed, I picked 1 blue and 1 white LEDs - just because I think it would look cool if the 2 windows are blue from distance Here is a test pic of switch and LEDs. And another pics with top and side closed for fitting test. It came out as I wanted Now - I'm done done with lights!! really time for painting other colors!!
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Haha I'm pretty sure it's possible to light up the whole SDF-1 with a bunch of batteries and LEDs..etc - like Hot Toys Iron man series. However, this is all I wanted for SDF-1. Electronics is not really my thing. If I do any more, I'll end up setting my house on fire or burn my fingers with soldering iron -
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That was my afterthoughts as well actually. Since the switch I'm using is 3-way switch, I'm thinking about adding one more LED on the top. That way, I can toggle between night light and day light Man...more work on the city as I thought it was over.... Yeah. What I said above... I'll check out the Transformer Prime It's the new TV series. right? Let's grab a lunch with Jojo sometime soon.
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Before moving to painting other colors, I needed to get the city block done with electrical work. My initial plan using long fiber-optic cable + 1 LED didn't work because of the nature of the cable (bending radius not enough for tight space under city panel). So moving to plan-B . A bunch of LEDs and shortened optic cables. Ohh...soldering fun...no.. not really...What a pain in the #$%!!. But it's the only way to make sure the wires are connected after I close the parts. It still worked with the same battery power, but probably this will shorten the battery life...but I'm now prepared for easy battery replacement!! I had to cut the base part here and there to fit cables and LEDs. In the end, they all fit in the tight space nicely Last step for this test is, of course, the lighting test . It looks like they are all working fine. Looks pretty nice specially when all the lights off The actual look is a little different from the photos below. Basically it has less glare, but more colorful than photos. Now I can move on to the other colors!!!
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If this takes too long to finish, i might actually go blind or insane.. Yet again, there is a guy who does sculpture with sand grain in the needle eye with microscope :ph34r: Maybe I should ask him to make me some Valkyries - but that will cost $300,000 per Valkyrie Oh, I tried to make 1 long paper strip and 1 square sheet with 7-8 pre-cut panel patches, but when I tested on one of the surface, the edges became all fudge because of all the small pieces on the surface prevent them from close fit.. so I made a 1 piece cut with masking tape and used it until the sticky becomes dull..then made new one - 1 patch at a time...That took a long time The battery cover -(leg bottom top cover)- just pops off. It's pretty tight thou. It won't just fall off. Thanks! It looked actually a little better when the paint dried and saw it again in the morning. When I painted at night under lamp lights, the contrast between darker gray and lighter gray was too big, and it made me worry a bit.
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After struggling a while with LED and Wires and Battery holder, I realized that I need to expose the battery..(for replacement later) Somewhere I can get to without going through whole left leg dis-assembly..Again! I wasn't able to obtain small battery holder, and the LED Beam saber I got was too big without connector for switch. (It is a very nice thou. I'll give it to other Gundam or FSS machine Anyways my only option was this one I got from local RadioShack. Looking here and there for a place to put it while close to LED and switch, I found a good spot! You can see that its connector leads right inside the area for the LED and Switch. I can fix it permanently and still have easy access to battery for easy replacement! I still need to paint the other areas and connect wires before fix it to position.
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Thanks. I can't wait either! Hopefully sometime soon...
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I started painting the actual colors last week. After doing a layer of base color - blue-ish gray with hint of light purple... I started panel line detail painting. Because I was planning lighter panel overlay painting, I made the base color a little darker. Tried to copy 'wm cheng's Aztek Digital Camo technique', but miserably failed at the first attempt . Maybe it's the paint material or the cut-out method? So, I ended up going back to good-old fashion method....labor-intensive method using masking tape.. Here is the chest block. Now you can actually see the added (engraved) panel lines + painted panel details. After the test, expanded the same method on other major body blocks. You can still see the shade tone I did before the base color paint. And applied the panel details on Arms and Main Cannon. My camera couldn't focus wide angle..so, took another shot with small parts. Legs front/back (or up/down ) did a same thing on ARMD and side panels 3 basic cut-out masking tape with safe-masking paper. Basically I put this on the area - quick airbrush - remove it - and repeated this like 100 times... Advantage of this is that you can put it anywhere you want!
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Hopefully...Then again, I don't think I can wait for the release to use it on mine It will be good for other owners who didn't start the mod. The right move would've been to announce it along with release of the toy. The price point and 'separate purchase' option will determine if it's a good move or dick move. If they do, they better include the damaged canon parts in there!! Hmmm... this one says 'kit' I'm not sure about the creditability of the person who wrote the note on the linked post. Need more info! Wow! Thanks for the close-up image!! Actually I'm a little bit relieved after seeing this. *About 95% of the parts are panel detail - which I added already. *the Valkyries are nice, but I would have made mine the other way anyways. If it comes 'painted' I would say 'wow', but it doesn't look painted. *The small fins on bottom right corner...I can't figure out where they would be used, but look kinda fragile and dangerous to put on the surface... *The one on the back left - looks like the 'glow' spot sticker (it says seal, not decal). I'm pretty sure I'm not gonna use them. I DO want the decals thou. That will help me a lot on the ARMD parts detailing. The Info card in front is about 1/60 VF-1 detail up 'Photo-etching' parts they sell at the convention! I do want that!!!!!! It will be available for general sales later Oh, BTW, sorry about lack of progress update. Just came back from a business trip.. I will continue posting soon
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According to this link (with my little Japanese skill), It says '1/3000 kit' announcement. Contents are still under being discussed, they are planning to include (photo)etching parts, resin parts and/or 'glow' decal..etc. :( :o Oh well... What can I do.. I'm gonna go 'Anti-Yamato' mode for a while.. :ph34r: Until i finish my mod... and until they make a better YF-19...
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It also comes with broken main canon parts!!!! AAAaaaaaarrrrrrgggggg
