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QuinJester

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Posts posted by QuinJester

  1. Urgh....i don't know where to get

    1.) Leaf Blower

    2.) Motorcycle Handbrake

    to build my Rock-It Launcher and Shish-Kebab respectively. :(

    Pay a visit to Minefield. Moira, the northern speaking eccentric inventor and proprietor of Craterside Supply in Megaton, will give you a quest to go there and step on landmines if you need to know where it is. Lots of garden implements lying around to build stuff out of up there.

  2. Being the charitable human being I am, I lopped off Cherry's head immediately following her voyage to Rivet City.

    Bonus XP for a quest and a kill, my character knows how to have fun.

    Shish2.jpg

    Fun is a lawnmower blade that's on fire, BTW.

    sv-51

    I just received Nora yesterday. That bird is a beauty. I was unable to put on the missiles. I decided to wait and ask you guys. I was forcing it and felt like I'm going to break something. Anyone can give me tips on putting on the missiles? Couldn't find anything on You Tube. Also, I couldn't figure out how to insert the adapter for fighter mode to go on the stand.

    I found they go on best if you angle them so that the "nose" of the missile is pointing down, the rear clip locked into the hole, then push up and lock the front in as opposed to just trying to press the missile straight into the locking hole.

  3. Well, as a recent local ad said: "When life throws Lehmans, make lemonade."

    I've started to grunge up the starkly white areas... which I suspect should've been metallic silver from what I've seen in the anime footage. Since Yamato has seen fit to glue-shut all vital areas (even those secured by hidden screws), it's just about impossible to take the toy apart without causing some permanent damage due to prying things apart.

    The biggest headache by far is the 'no-grip' left shoulder joint: the perfect limp arm to go with the limp wristed hand. I've tried dripping some Tamiya super-thin cement into the adjacent surfaces of the joint, but it's not a good (or permanent) fix because after some posing, the layer of dried cement rubs off and flakes away. Anyone got a better solution for this problem?

    You can always go to one more extreme and dribble some liquid superglue into the joint, making sure to continuously move it as soon as you put it in. After maybe a minute of frantic wiggling it should be safe to sit, but you'll feel the joint stiffening as the superglue coats and hardens on the inside of the joint. It's the method I use on ball joints that aren't accessible or removable such as those on Bandai's original SOC Eva-01. It's a little risky, 'cause, you know, superglue, but it definitely works.

  4. I read things like "it looks like a $60 toy" and I feel like I'm in crazy-land.

    Fully painted, covered in details, large size, diecast content, and it's a $60 toy. And yet, if I were to put a $50, unpainted, sticker-only VF-25 on the same shelf as my Yamatos it'd fit right in with its bare plastic brethren.

    I understand that people can not like the design decisions that went into it. I can understand that people are miffed about undetailed landing gear (hey, I'd like some nice sculpted metal landing gear on it myself!). But I can't understand how anyone can HONESTLY look at the level of finish and printing on this toy and seriously say it looks "cheap", especially by comparisons to Yamatos, without believing they're spouting hyperbole for the sake of it.

  5. Goods explanation:The trilogy eye of a lightly salted salmon Lu mechanism design which a motorbike changes and becomes a robot form. The ultimate variable mechanism attained the modification to a motorbike. By the kit, although there is substitution, it can incorporate a variable mechanism and can transform a part into a MOTOSU rave (increase armoring Armagh SUREIBU) from motorcycle mode. of course -- the hard suit of hero PURISU -- full -- it is movable It is attached to a limited edition in the specially set-up machine gun by the original illustration.

    (Automatically translated in English by fresh eye system.)

    Best machine translation from Japanese to English ever? I think it might be!

  6. Hot damn! The fighters look accurate and the robot looks great! Now if only I wasn't a cheap ass and refuse to pay over $200 for (almost) any toy I'd get it. It is quite a good looking toy for whoever gets it.

    Yeah... sadly, knowing SHE and the complexity of this, the price'll probably be hitting in the $700+ range.

    EDIT: Ah, dur, price is right there on the page.

    79,800 yen. $790+

    185mm tall, so around 7 inches. That's over one hundred dollars per inch.

  7. Is that a cattle-killer in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?

    Looking at these photos, I'd have to say that the figure they were taken of is exactly the same one people have been poo-pooing up to now. The proportional differences are a trick of the eye and mind now that it's painted and detailed and doesn't have wide expanses of blank color (which will of course make everything look bigger and odder).

    It looks good to me, though the potential of future super parts will make me hold off on Ozma on release. I don't need two of the same figures without something additional to make them significantly different from each other.

  8. HERO!!!

    @Graham. Long before Bandai started with Gundam kits. They had chunky 1/16 scale tanks and 1/24 scale WWII fighter planes. The warbird kits had some nice fantasy panel lines and lots of rivets. I mean really lots of rivets. Their kits were better than the 1/32 Revell Stuff from the early 90. It's not like they don't know how to make model kits. It all became more child friendly and therefore unnecessary.

    It's also often a case of going for Anime accuracy as opposed to "if it were real"; Many of their HGUCs are very simple because they're meant to imitate the lines on the animation models. If you look at some of their lines, such as the early Wing and Endless Waltz kits especially (or just Katoki designs in general), they're absolutely festooned with panel lines. Excessively so, almost. Modern MG kits straddle this line by going for a general anime accurate look with minimal lining on the outside, but with internal mechanisms for the detail-obsessive.

  9. Now, is that different than the metal version, or are they more or less the same?

    I could assign all of miriya's points to my die-cast Voltron, as well. The only mold changes were to make plastic parts instead of die-cast, I believe, everything else should be the same. Only, you know, 1/3rd of the price.

  10. Nuh-uh, prototype does not explain why the rear of the legs do not stick out well above the wings while in fighter mode. They should be sticking out above the height of the shield, similar to the YF-19's legs in fighter mode. There's a big gap where the legs should be sticking out. So now you look through this big gap and say "gee, that's where the legs should be but I've got a big gaping gap in fighter mode."

    It's been like this on every prototype picture we've seen. It's not mistransformed or a prototype issue if it's been like that in all the pictures.

    May I add that the model doesn't have this problem in fighter mode.

    Unforunately Bandai is the only game in town for Macross Frontier toys and models. So if you want a good looking VF-25 you have to settle for the model kit, because the 1/60 just isn't cutting it at looking like a good representation of the VF-25. Originally I had wrote that you'd have to settle for "a model kit or partsformer" but then I remembered that the 1/100 has the same leg problem in fighter mode as the 1/60. Pretty sad. The toy team could learn a lot from the model team at Bandai.

    Here, does this make you feel better?

    057.jpg

    058.jpg

    ... or do we need to keep foaming about the gap? It's probably not closed in any of the photos because the proto is so caked with layers of primer that the locking pegs don't fit into the holes, and I doubt there are any ratchets in the knees yet to keep the heavy resin legs from sagging. The photographer probably doesn't want to deal with an overly tight peg on a photomodel he probably doesn't want to break, either.

    (Yes, I checked to make sure that was a DX photo and not a model)

    EDIT: Just realized that one of these photos is even in the first page of this thread

  11. FYI, I noticed that a couple of ebay stores out of the West coast have decent deals on the SOC Gunbuster GX-34. Or, what I consider my personal Holy Grail of Gunbuster toys. :D They are US listings so the shipping is reasonable. Best price I've found so far since it was released a couple of years ago. I missed the boat when it was first released. I'm expecting mine to come in any day now. ;)

    http://cgi.ebay.com/SOC-GX-34-Soul-of-Chog...id=p3286.c0.m14

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Bandai-Soul-of-Chogoki...id=p3286.c0.m14

    Wow, I wonder why the sudden price drop? The few Gunbusters that I usually see on ebay are hitting the $240+ mark with shipping. Nice to see some within a more reasonable price range... right after I bought one off someone second-hand for almost that price :lol: . Then again, I'm getting a Gold Lightan in the deal, so I'll call it good.

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