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QuinJester

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Posts posted by QuinJester

  1. Mmm.... sexy... right guys? Right?

    Emaciated.jpg

    Right?

    ... because if you're going to be so ridiculous as to equate liking the proportions of a toy with sexual preferences, it may as well go both ways, right? How do you have sex with your women without breaking them, anyway? That must be tough.

    Back on topic, I'm happy to see that Bandai is actually releasing the packs as standalones. It gives me hope for Super Armor in the future, both in the kits and on the DX toy versions.

  2. They haven't. The slide-up nose cone is a complete fiasco, because it makes battroid look wrong, and it makes a correct VF-1D impossible.

    ... Yeah ... it's a pity, really. I love the aggressive look of the bigchested and sunken headed 1/48. The 1/60 V2 has a more lithe aesthetic though that at the very least keeps it from being a smaller carbon copy of the 1/48, for better or for worse.

  3. Nope. Actually, if you think about it, making the fuselage stick up so high in battroid makes it much harder to do a VF-1D correctly.

    Well, then I fail to see how they've managed to make the design any more conducive to two-seaters than previous versions, since they haven't taken advantage of the detachable and movable nose to make the canopy any longer. <shrug>

  4. The -1D doesn't have a "dip" in the chest-plate where the back panel is like the single-seat VF-1s do.

    <snip>

    VF-1D (notice it's "straight" across the top of the chest)

    This effectively conceals the "proud fuselage" in the neck of the normal models. Otherwise, the head would have been too sunken into the chest like it is on the original 1/60

    Maybe this is what was meant by "designed from the beginning to accomodate two seaters" instead of the detachable nosecone; the high head in battroid means that while it sticks out a bit on the regular versions, it's at just the right height for a straight line chestpiece.

  5. What is H2O2? (Yes I know its Hydrogen and Oxygen) :)

    Hydrogen Peroxide. In this case, they aren't using normal grocery store stuff, either, but 30-35% solution, which you can only get from specialty stores in most cases, or online in large quantities, and will melt your lungs if you breathe its fumes. Do not try this without adequate ventilation and preferably a breathing aparatus of some kind.

  6. Although it's true that there is a certain small percentage of disgruntled employees who purposely mishandle things that are labeled as fragile, at the worse it gets ignored and not purposely mangled. Baggage handlers are busy, and they don't really have time to purposely take 5 minutes of their time and piss all over your bag. But then why stop the reasoning there?

    -Why call the cops when you're in trouble.... they might be corrupt

    -Why put a roof on your head... it might cave

    -Why go out for a walk... when you can get hit by lightning

    I am a platinum elite on NWA (the worse airline in America btw), and have never had issues when I've asked someone to put a fragile sticker. That being said, I do agree that cushioning the package is the more important aspect of this... sticker / no-sticker is a minor issue.

    My entire point was that you shouldn't rely on a "Fragile" sticker to guarantee your Yamato's safety, and I hardly think the extended ridicule is necessary :p. I've seen "Fragile" packages that came out on the conveyor looking like they were run over by the plane they flew in on. The key point is that you should pack it like it's being shipped overseas, because in the end, that's exactly what it's doing. You just happen to be on the "mail plane" that it's going on.

  7. Fragile stickers wont do a thing. They're largely ignored and can even sometimes mark items as targets for disgruntled employees. I've seen horrifically disfigured bags and boxes that were carefully marked "fragile". The best thing I can suggest is to pack it like you're shipping it: put the box in another box, give it at least an inch on all sides of packing material, and it should make it intact. Anything less and it's inviting disaster when someone's tuba case (also likely marked "fragile") gets tossed violently on top of your purchase.

  8. Mostly agree. I just wish producers of transforming toys would stop putting token diecast in all the wrong spots.

    bare diecast joints for structural integrity = good.

    diecast anything else where there is alot of friction during transformation = bad

    I've had hardly any difficulties with die-cast chipping due to friction points on past Bandai products. I've also had problems with chipping of details on bare plastic. It comes down to design more than material. Let's keep the jury out on potential problems with the DX VF-25 until we have it in hand, methinks. If done right (and they have plenty of practice doing so), die-cast is a great addition to toys and able to provide a lot of solidity, strength, and balance if it's in the right places. So far the only questionable placement of diecast that I can see on the DX is in the hips, and if it provides strength and a greater center of balance for gerwalk mode, for instance, I don't see a problem with it assuming it's properly primered and sealed.

  9. Except when Bandai steps in of course.

    Says who? The two designs that are coming out last, the 1/60 and 1/100, both share the same modified hip joint location. Who's to say that Mr. K didn't ask them to make them that way? He certainly asked them to make other changes on the model and they complied. In fact, when it comes to a show with animation deadlines upon which the entire IP based and multiple product lines are depending on, he probably has less authority than he does over the toy.

  10. Back on topic!

    I think, with the color of the heat shield, Yamato could make a cannon fodder scheme really easily on this guy. Wouldn't even really require that much more masking!

    VF-11FodderScheme1.jpg

    ... okay, a little silly. But really, a giant glowing hotspot that tells the enemy "I'M HERE!" can't inspire a lot of confidence in the poor sods who have to pilot the 11s ^_^

  11. You must be using different guns than me, because I explode heads all the time. Get a combat shotgun.

    Or just invest in the lovely "bloody mess" perk, that way you'll not only do 5% more damage, but you'll be blowing off legs and arms (?) in addition to heads with your headshots. The Combat shotgun is pretty good for popped tops as well.

  12. The online Tamashii Web Shop will be offering exclusive "parts and weapons sets" for DX超合金 VF-25G and RVF-25.

    http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/iam-cybergundam/article?mid=16296

    VF-25G set comes with 1/60 Ranka Lee (25mm), Speakers and Super Booster

    5,000yen, orders open from 25 Mar - 25 Apr, July shipping

    RVF-25 comes with Ghost x1, Missiles x2 and Reactive missilesx4

    4,000yen, orders open from 25 Mar - 25 Apr, July shipping

    EDIT: It seems there will be a discount coupon of sorts for ordering the expansion sets online included with the 1/60 VF-25G and RVF-25.

    Web Shop Exclusive = NOoooooooooooooooooooooo

    Aftermarket prices will be a pain in the ass for those of us across the ocean :(

  13. I'm astounded that so many people are giving the VF-1D's too-short cockpit a free pass. Considering that one of Yamato's big arguments against a 1/48 two-seater was the need for a new nose, and the way Yamato went as far as to create a modular nosecone design on the V2, I'm really disappointed that the cockpit changes are no more than a new clear cover. Why exactly couldn't that be done on the 1/48? What was the point of the easily swapped cockpit if they aren't going to use it for anything more than a one-off gimmick (the arm mounted cockpit)? Bah and humbug.

  14. That would be my guess as well.

    Yamato sure does one thing right: they make toys with no ugly gaps. Everything is flush and looks to fit together perfectly.

    If only they would go to the guy who came up with the 1/48 swingbar transformation and have him come up with a way to get longer tailfins stowed in the legs. Someone did a real nice computer animation to show that it's possible.

    And what's with the wide-hipped, bowl-legged battroid mode?

    My 1/60 YF-19 disagrees with you on the "no gaps" point, but ah well. I'd almost like to see some more seams or something, anything, to break up the big blank grey areas on the body. Hopefully there's plenty of sculpted detail in there that's just being washed out by lighting or something. The bowlegged stance looks to mercifully be the product of poor hip-hinge arrangement, and hopefully wont be endemic on the final model, because otherwise it'll just be one more nail in its coffin.

    We'll see, we'll see.

  15. It's so tempting to copy and paste someone's complaints on the DX VF-25 and paste them into my own words here about the VF-11, because honestly I think I have the exact same problems people have mentioned for that model with this one. The jetmode proportions are ... well... it's not pretty. The nosecone, especially. Small tailfins I could get over, but the front of the jet looks ... words ... just fail me. Grargh.

    /e goes off to cleanse the still-ringing rants of model railroad foamers from his ears with alcohol

  16. I don't know. They're still making GFFs and what's the new Robot Spirit figures made of? Anyone have a Robot Spirit 00 Gundam?

    This is a partsformer so Bandai may opt to use PVC in certain areas that need strength. Like the crotch and shoulder areas.

    As for the price, if it is indeed 4800 yen, it's pretty much what I expected. GFF level pricing. We shall see if this will be a parts falling off mess or a nice solid toy. The reviews on the recent GFF Alex with Chobham armor gives me hope.

    The Damashii figs are marketed as all being non PVC, ABS and POM construction.

  17. Something to beware of using RIT dye on clear plastic; I've read and heard from a lot of people who've tried using RIT dye baths on various clear plastics before and the usual result is a horrific mess, occasionally even the plastic itself becoming extremely brittle and shattering or simply melting in the pot. The clear plastic doesn't react well to the acetone additives in RIT baths, apparently. I don't think I've ever met anyone who recommended trying plastic dyes on clear plastic, or who even got it to work properly.

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