captain america

Captain's log: Thursday, May 1st, 2025. Some of the components for this 1/48 project are going to be on the large side, and because of that, I'll need to cobble some Renshape blocks together. You can see this in pic 21, and this piece will eventually become the main hull/chest of the mecha. In pic 22, I'm checking the block size with the paper template before I stick it down. I want the block to be a little bit larger. Pic 23: I'm putting that resin bar stock to work on the lathe now. While I can carve resin faster than metal, I still have to mind my pace because whenever you machine a part, it gets hot. If too much heat builds up in the resin, it can become soft and cause the cutting knife to jam and potentially damage the part (and the machine!) Pic 24: here I am test-fitting the part for snugness by mating it with an existing crotch component. This piece will eventually become the mecha's 'waist.' Because many of these parts are big & heavy, I prefer they fit tighter so as to hold together better when built. Pic 25: here's the inglorious side of machining: piles and piles of resin 'hay' and Renshape shavings. You'd be shocked at how much of this stuff is produced with every project! Pic 26: I'm going to turn some Renshape on the lathe, and it's a pretty big part, so I start by checking the measurements on my diagram using my trusty compass-cutter. Pic 27: using the same compass-cutter, I now score a circle to the exact diameter I need from a larger block of material. Pic 28: I then trim the part from the larger plank of Renshape, leaving at least 3mm of wiggle-room. Pic 29: here I've removed most of the excess with the band saw, and the part is almost ready to be mounted to the lathe. Pic 30: using some CA glue, I attach a resin mandrel to the part. The latter is perfectly round, so the lathe chuck will hold it securely, while the knife can attack the Renshape end. Pic 31: because the part is so big, I enlist the dead-center to help hold the part during machining: this is critical, especially in the early stages when the part isn't perfectly round and the cutter jams into Renshape then air at high speed, causing the part to vibrate. Once again, I have to proceed slowly because of the vibration and the largeness of the part. Pic 32: after a LOT of machining (and vacuuming!), the piece within is being revealed! This will eventually become part of the missile pod's interface with the shoulder joint. Pic 33: more blocks being readied with paper patterns, about to go under the band saw. Pic 34: the tedious process of carving-away excess material begins; there's just no way around it. Pic 35: once the band saw has done its part, the chest module now goes to the mill for proper surfacing. Pic 36: It may not look like much, but these parts were a LOT of work! Things are starting off slow, simply by virtue of the size of the components needing to be made and the preparation they require. By next week, you'll see a drastic improvement, with lots of recognizable parts coming together, so stay tuned! 21.HEIC 22.HEIC 23.HEIC 24.HEIC 25.HEIC 26.HEIC 27.HEIC 28.HEIC 29.HEIC 30.HEIC 31.HEIC 32.HEIC 33.HEIC 34.HEIC 35.HEIC 36.HEIC

Captain's log: Thursday, April 24th, 2025 Here we are, boys and girls! The 1/48 PHAT LYNX resin kit project has now begun! As per my usual routine, I will provide a weekly build log to show you the progress being made, and some of the techniques I use to achieve those results. To that end, I'll also show-off some of the tools I use in the craft. While a few key parts will be 3D printed, most of the fabrication is done the old-fashioned way: by hand! Starting off with pics 00 and 01, we see the drafting process well underway. This is where a model is fundamentally made or broken: details can be added or subtracted, but proportions are very hard to alter once committed-to and a good (artistic) eye is key to getting aesthetically pleasing proportions all-around. I take my time in this phase, starting from the original line-art and then tweaking things to enhance the look. I'm fortunate that I can use 80% of the lower body from the Thomas Hawk project here, since the two mecha have decent parts commonality. Pic 02: once I have everything drafted and looking just right, I then print my plots out on paper and gather my tools. I think you can tell even in this pic that some of the components are massive! As such, I will need a lot of Renshape blocks as well as bar stock to turn the round parts. Other components will be handled by 3D printing, and I'll explain why later. Take note of the two squares next to the Renshape blocks: this is a must-have tool for creating parts with perfect 90 degree angles. Pic 03: this is a face-end mill. It's designed to create level surfaces on the lathe, and while a regular milling shank can do similar work, the face-end mill covers more real estate in one pass, so it's a time-saver. Pic 04: this is my milling machine. You can see the face-end mill in the chuck, ready to get to work, as well as the hand-crank vise I use to clamp the parts to be machined. I like this vise because it's very low-profile and allows me to machine taller parts than I could achieve with a regular swivel-vise. Pic 05: here is the lathe. While it's adequate for most parts, it will be a bit of a struggle to create some of the PHAT LYNX's components on this. In fact, some of the parts, like the missile pods, are so large as to be dangerous to turn on my lathe, which is why I will have the base structures rendered and 3D printed. This way, I get to keep all my fingers and forego a few scars! Pic 06: my trusty band saw! This is a critical tool for slicing blocks of Renshape, as well as whittling them down prior to machining. It's not as precise as a scroll saw, but then it doesn't need to be. These three machines working in unison are where 50-75% of the construction happens. Pics 06-09: because I will need to machine quite a few large, round parts, I will need to create some bar stock. Step 1: mix some resin and pour into a cleaned & prepped round yogurt container. Let it sit to allow the surface bubbles to dissipate, then place under pressure for 90 minutes, then de-mold! While the resin looks solid enough, it's still too soft to handle so I will let it sit for 24 hours before machining it. Pic 10: this bar stock is too large for the jaws of my milling chuck, so I “cheat” by adding a smaller mandrel with some CA glue. This will allow my lathe jaws to hold the part from the mandrel, yet still be adequately secure for machining, provided I don't cut too aggressively. Pic 11: I need blocks! Here I am cutting a large block of Renshape into more manageable segments on the band saw. Pic 12: once cut, the part will have an uneven surface, so onto the mill it goes to have its face made smooth. Pic 13: these are the jaws I normally use for turning bar stock, but they aren't able to clamp larger parts like the mandrel, so... Pic 14: I swap them out for the reverse-jaws, which are meant for bigger bars... Pic 15: Which look like this when installed. These jaws can clamp larger parts either from the outside, but they also have the ability to hold hollowed-out parts (like tubes) from the inside. Pic 16: I an now start trimming the patterns for parts to be fabricated. I can now check my blocks of Renshape to see if the size is adequate. Pic 17: lots of trimming going on. Blocks of Renshape are continuously trimmed to be barely larget than the parts to be created. To that end, I use my calipers to score a cut-mark in the block which is about to be trimmed. Pic 18: Back to the band saw, I remove the excess material... Pic 19: then re-surface the block on the mill. Pic 20: a cheat method I sometimes employ with smaller pieces is the drill press, fitted with a grinding stone. It works like the face-end mill, but I can hold smaller, or more complex shapes with my hand. This is better for small shapes that could otherwise be damaged by the jaws of the milling vise. That does it for the first few days of fabrication. While this and next week's reports may not be as exciting as some would like, I think they hold valuable insight into the tedious (and messy) process of hand-crafting. You may not think so, but this boring process lays the groundwork for all the good things to come, and mark my words, this model will be glorious! 00.HEIC 01.HEIC 02.HEIC 03.HEIC 04.HEIC 05.HEIC 06.HEIC 07.HEIC 08.HEIC 09.HEIC 10.HEIC 11.HEIC 12.HEIC 13.HEIC 14.HEIC 15.HEIC 16.HEIC 17.HEIC 18.HEIC 19.HEIC 20.HEIC

Captain's log: Friday, April 18th, 2025. Great news everyone: the technical drawings are done! I'm planning-out the production of the various components, and I have a special request: some of the parts on this model, namely the missile pods, are very much on the limit of what my lathe can handle safely. As such, I would require someone skilled in 3D modelling to produce the files for these parts, based on my hand-drawn diagrams (with dimensions) so I can 3D print them. Please DM me if this is up your alley!

The whole kit is a disappointment, to be honest. They weren't faithful to the source material in terms of details or proportions, and the whole mech is still too small, especially compared to the Regult. I've seen some modelers try to shoehorn a pilot into the cockpit, but it just makes the thing look worse.

@DeltaE27 I really dig the tactical blue-gray scheme on the Tomahawk. I'm told the Wave kits don't go together so well despite being new; would you say they're an improvement in the fit department compared to the old ARII kit?

While I'm waiting for the balance of the deposits to come in, I shall busy myself with the technical drawing.

Phat Lynx is going ahead!

Not a reality yet, we still need to achieve MOQ.

Hopefully it'll incorporate active flow control.

Greetings @everyone It's that time of the year again, when I announce a new Moscato Hobby Original Project, and this one is a whopper: a 1/48 Destroyed Phat Lynx (Destroid Phalanx). This ginormous kit would be based on a modified Thomas Hawk lower chassis, with all the features listed in the image shown. In order for this project to go ahead, I need a minimum of 20 orders, non-negotiable. Please read the following carefully. If you are interested in getting this model, send me a PRIVATE message. Posting in the comments will NOT be construed as interest. Kit price for the first twenty: $500 Canadian dollars (shipping not included) Kit price > 20: $525 Canadian dollars The standard shipping price for the US and Canada is shown in the image, while international shipping will be calculated based on destination and order size. If I gather the requisite interest for the project, know that I will request a $350 CAD deposit, with the balance due upon completion to make things more manageable You have until March 31st to pledge yourself to the realization of this project. If I fail to get the requisite interest by that date, I will simply move to another project. What say you?

The larger images show more variation in color ranging from an icy blue to sky blue. The smaller stills still show some color variation, but are much more consistent. Either way, I'm sure someone somewhere will choose to bicker with you over your color choice, but it certainly won't be me.

Hey Ted! Has there been any progress on the Bug Face build? The Type II Bio Llloyds don't get nearly enough love.

The problem is the seller keeps putting up pictures of the illustration taken from mostly head-on. He would need to post pics of the illustration at an angle with the light reflecting off the surface, so that we can see if there are any masking lines, brush strokes and other hints discernible in an original illustration. That would be the ultimate tell.

Just like with high-end watches, you buy the seller, not the item. Were this an original, I would think that anyone with above room-temperature I.Q. would have made a greater effort to demonstrate the authenticity of the piece, and in so doing fetch maybe 5X the asking price. Without better info, I wouldn't chance it... But that's me.

Assuming it's an original, the price isn't high. That said, it definitely needs higher resolution pics. Hand-rendered illustrations have brush strokes and other tell-tale signs of production which I can't discern with this piece. If anything, the reflection makes it look like some sort of laminated print. While the back looks like an illustration board, it's a bit too clean for something from the early 80s and, as mentioned above, why isn't it framed, if only to avoid damage? Also, there are no crop marks, which would be standard for original artwork for this era.

Send me a private message; I'll need to take down your info.

Hello all! I'm looking to re-issue this kit and so far things are looking good, because in about 24 hours I got 8 serious requests for it. If you'd like to get on-board, send me a private message.

FWIW, my 1/72 Graug proportions were based on this (official) diagram. Hasegawa seem to have just winged it.

Upon closer inspection of the footage, I wonder if it isn't simply a high-speed bomber/attack aircraft using similar tech (maybe even engines) as seen in the J-20. The double-bogey main gear would point to a heavy payload capacity, and other pics show three engine nozzles, so most likely a thirsty bird. A little detail most people missed is the blended/jointless control surfaces, which are very interesting!

You're being generous! The Hasegawa offering is horribly disappointing in most regards: the surface detail is underwhelming in most places, the cockpit is a joke, and the pod shape and proportions are... WTF! I also don't understand where the gun pod molle/cheesegrater detail comes from, but seeing as how they consistently thumb their nose up at the source material on their Zentraedi offerings, this doesn't surprise me. It does have one advantage, though: it will be cheap (in every sense of the word.)

A Southern Cross wet dream come true!! At some point I'll have to update this pic with your lovely Tanku-Robo builds.

A Volks 1/100 Blood Temple! Is this SSS or SAV?

In the event of a reissue, I would incorporate improvements.

OoOooOoOoOh, I like the sneak-peek!! I think yours is the very first "normal type" Spartas model I've ever seen. Yes, I think you're right about the hands: as much as I wanted to have posable units, fixed, cast round hands just look way better and are more faithful. I see what you did with the elbow and you just gave me a great idea! With a bit of tinkering, I believe I can improve even upon what you did.