Gerwalker

Thanks Nanashi for all the new stuff you are posting. This particular item is one of the most interestring. I agree that it would be necessary at least two Typhoons to fit those SVs inside. The overall shape doesn't reminds me a sub but a wingless Boeing XF-32!! Torpedo tubes? for sure!! Aside from SV-51, does it carries Octos too?

I have thought about that too a while ago!! My conclusions: it is not a good idea. You can have a semi transparent white but if you applied it on top of the transparent blue of that kit it would turn a semi transparent light blue... Sadly Hasegawa produced the clear colorless VF-1S just for a model show in Japan. It would be a very interesting model since it would be easier to paint it with clear paints to whatever scheme you want. I can't understand the idea of those ultra limited issues...

Never mix Tamiya white with Future!!! I did it and get some nasty particles. Maybe Tamiya clear + tamiya white would do the trick.

So a movie with giant spaceships the size of planets, jedi's, aliens, nearly-sentient robots.... and you complain about thermal radiation? Gotcha...but...in those small details (like people don't get burned when so close to a lava river) is were credibility of a fantasy movie should be. I mean: I can accept all the magic rings, light sabers, and so because they have some background (magic, force, overtechnology, etc.) but IMHO to be effective a fantasy (or Sci Fi) movie should "respect" those little details. If the fight were in vacuum (space) without a protection (i.e. Breetai style) would it be more unbelieveble than fighting on lava?

It's very annoying to see characters staying so close to lava (remeber the Hobbits?) Thermal radiation is a very serious issue with things as hot as lava!! You don't need to touch it to get severely burned. They would be roasted very quickly if they surf on lava!!

Bienvenido!! Hey, excellent work. Keep posting!! About bad mexicans: those with big mustaches and BIG hats with a gun in each hand shooting everybody... those are the bad ones... Your comment about the bad mexicans in the news reminds me a chapter of Michael Moore's Stupid White Men book that deals about how the US media uses stereotypes and exagerate the bad dids of minorities. Good reading.

We already discussed this a while ago(10/2003): Glues for models, Answering some questions Topic: Glues for models

Hase battroid is a good kit (best battroid ever) but has some design defects that can ruin the life of a begginer. It's snap but parts don't hold very well (not as a Gundam, I mean) and the hip joints are extremelly weak. AFAIK the simplest Hase kit so far is the YF-21. It is big and has not a big ammount of parts.

Here is my list of easy and good looking Macross kits: Arii 1/100 fighter: the best Arii VF-1 ever (forget about the battroid and gerwalks) Bandai 1/100 strike battroid: excellent and very easy. Bandai 1/144 M7 kits: a battroid and a fighter in one box, quite decent IMHO (no decals just stickers ). Tip For a fast painting: I use Krylon spray paints whenever is posible. Painting a VF-1 white: Just paint it with Krylon satin white. In a couple of minutes you get a smooth finish (just dont' over spray). Apply decals paint details and presto!! For painting the fast packs in your VF-2SS use masking tape (Tamiya is the best) for protecting the rest of the model while painting those parts. I recommend you to read wmcheng articles on the "how to" models section. For instance he did an incredible work with masking tape in both the Vf-21 and the Mave from Yukikaze. Though he an expert modeler there are a lot of his tips, hints and ideas so well explained that even a newbie can use them.

One of your bests!! Congratulations maestro!!

Sorry if you already know the names and so. Just wanted to save you from a flame war... What diorama are you putting toghether? What models you are using? There used to be a decals sheet from Wave with a lot of stencils and markings for valks, destroids and zentradi in three different scales. Nowadays they are hard to find and the Hasegawa decals are the best for 1/72 valks.

For those details you must use the Hasegawa decals/instructions (look for them in the main site) The Hase kits have a ton of stencils and warnings markings and AFAIK they are canon. One detail that belongs only to the DYRL valks is the warning red "V" in the intakes. BTW: And make yourself a favor: take a couple of minutes and learn the Macross names of the characters you are refering. There are some people in these forums that are very touchy with the Robotech names Max = (Max) Maximilian Jenius Ben = Hayao Kakizaki Rick = Hikaru Ichijyo Roy Fokker = Roy Focker As you can see just a couple of first names differ.

Anime? Nah.... Probably make a good series or live action movie. It has been done already!! Gerry Anderson's UFO!!! (UFO TV series was X-com + LSD)All the basic elements of the game were taken from the TV series: Shado bases, ships, interceptors, tanks, comandos going to landing sites, etc. BTW: in Europe and othe places X-com was known as UFO...

This was discussed way before in the how to model section. As Gundamhead said the hardening depends on the curing time: the baking soda + CA is softer than plastic a few seconds after mixed and it gets harder with time (seconds!!) i ussually wait 10seconds until it gets as hard as the plastic. It is very easy to cut and sand then. If you wait longer it gets very hard and it is not easy to sand. I first put the CA in the gap or part I want to reshape (it is ver good for reshaping small parts since you can build it layer by layer until you get the proper thickness) and then cover it with powder. I've never tried the opposite (I will try) and I think that mix them before is a bad idea. Baking soda is alcaline and common CA reacts with alcalis that's why it get hard fast. The main advantage of this stuff is that it dries in seconds (I hate waiting for the Tamiya Putty to dry) and so it's it's main disadvantage: you must work fast. I don't use it as my only putty. Just for the worst seams and for reshaping. Tamiya putty and more recently the wonderful Mr. Surfacer are my other choices.

You mean My Neighbour Totoro?? That's a great movie!! Totoro is one of the symbols of the studio (you can see him at the begining of Chihiro a.k.a. Spirited away.

Mine also came with that tip broken!! Fortunately I found the little bastard into the bag.

David, try Tamiya's extra thin cement. It's consistency is like water, but it sets up very quickly. Just apply a tiny amount and then attach the part to where you need it to be. Just one warning. Because there's so little glue holding the pieces together, you may want to follow up with a small extra dab of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, just to re-enfoce it once the original application of glue has dried. I use Revell's Contacta Pro for general glueing and pure MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Testors liquid cement contains this stuff and it dries fast) and even xilene (slower that MEK) for capilary action glueing.

That's what I said already in page 1 of this thread quoting MPerfect book, but I had not the details then:so at least the VT-102 is a trainer having an instructor seat and a student seat. I think that the discussion on the "D" denomination is futile without considering what fighters with a "D" variant were known by the time Macross was aired (or at least when the linearts with their final denominations were released) For instance: quoting from here: Tomcat Alley Site -the designation F-14D was originally used to describe a downgraded version of the F-14 proposed to the Navy in the 1970's (maybe our VF-1D follows the same idea too) -The first flight of an F-14D (i.e. prototype) took place on the 23rd of November 1987 (Macross was five years old then)

Oh! the old and long "building queue" is geting longer... BTW: The info came from a site that Nanashi says is using his scans without permission (not trying to start an argument on copyright and so)

Thanks, they are about 7,5-8 cm tall then. I think the monster would be smaller than that...EDIT: NOOOOO!! My mistake the monster is bigger!!! Pic From other post:

To be fair, that just indicates that VT-102 was a trainer. Can we really class every VF-1D as a trainer based on that one example? From a cientific point of you I agree with you. VT-102 could be the one and only one VF-1D in such role (possible but not probable)

Is the Macross Perfect Book a canon source? Surely it is. Then just pick your copy of the book (if you don't have a copy pls log out from MW right now!!! ) and look for the black and white diagrams of the VF-1. I don't have it right now (I'm at work) so I can't quote the exact page but you would easily find a pic of the VF-1D cockpit that states something like: Student Seat and Capt. Dagger (I think it is in the same page that depicts a low-res cutaway battroid) So a canon source indicates that it is clearly a trainer, and advaced and armed trainer that is combat ready if you want.

Size?

This a detail of the vectoring paddles made of graphite epoxy:

I have some questions and sugestions: a)I was studying my SV-51 kit (Hi Gorgon!! ) and found that it wouldn't be difficult to make a gerwalk version (I mean semi-gerwalk mode with the arms not unfolded) What do you think? b)For the VTOL intakes I would suggest to study pics of the F-35 VTOL system. c)For the exhausts I think these pics I took of the X-31 Vector at the München Schleissheim Museum could be used as color/texture references: