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Damn, just paid good money for 250g of this stuff. Anyway, thanks for sharing. At least now we have some info from someone with first hand experience. I might use this for making mold for resin casting. Sounds like a good way to reduce cost by using this reusable material instead of silicon mold. Will try it out when it arrived and report back.

As always, very nice result. I have just finished the VF-0S batt. Now looking at this make me wish I have opt for building the fighter instead. The plane looks so sleek. I like your pre-shading, subtle, not too over bearing. Hope too see the completed product soon.

Thanks for the kind comments everyone. Thanks Wicked Ace for taking the trouble to reply. Warpaint22, I did try to be very careful not to over done the weathering, it was too easy to do that. I am very happy witht the kit standing there in the case. This is only my second completed model. You will have to excuse me for not being ablte ot keep my eyes off it sometimes. Looking at the working by others here on the VF-0S fighter, I am very keen to own one too. But my build queue is already very long now. I wanted some many models. VF-1S minmay guard strike batt is one of the top one. But like I said, I am working on a YF-19 now. Hope I can finish that quickly and get on with others. Any tips for the YF-19? I have barely started. Looks easy enough, but I might face more problem down the road.

I am very qurious about how useful this is. Will buy some small quantity and try it out soon. I am worrying about deformation when it is hot too if this is used for finished product. I think MechTech is right, maybe for mold and stuff it is ok. The description I seen so far really make this out to be a really exiciting material.

I used pastel chalk (shaved and mixed with a drop of washing liquid and some water) for wash and weathering. Works really well for me. Mr. Anderson, Yes I have a hard time when I did mine with the panel lines. I have to rescribe most of the one near any seam that I have fixed. It is not that hard once you got the hang of it. Having the correct tools also helps a lot (I find out the hard way). Buy some hasegawa scribing saw or some good scribber. It does helps. Using a stiff tape as guild help to keep your panel lines straight. The kind of tape they use in the lable creator that punch letter on a hard plastic tape (sorry I don't know what it is called) is a good choice. I also used a very small measuring tape (the thin metal tape is flexible enough, but you need to use some tape or bule tag to keep it in place). Use very a sharp knife, and go very lightly over in the first few passes. A steady hand does helps. I am a novice too in panel scribbing, but I find that trying it a few times will quickly teach you the basic. Good luck with your model. Like Sonic, I am working on a YF-19. Seems much easier then the VF-0S batt, maybe I am yet to hid any problem yet.

Saw this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-KG-MORPHPLAST-Make...1QQcmdZViewItem (Item number: 280217040352) I wonder if this is any good for some simple scratch building. I been wanting to try out silicon mold and resin, but was too intimidated. Maybe this is tame enough for me to handle. Anyone tried it? Your experience will help me decide. Mind sharing?

Just been putting some finishing touches on my VF-0S kit. It is 99% complete now. Light condition is very poor, but I couldn't resist taking some pictures. I messed up at quite a few places, but I am happy to own a completed VF-0S batt. I might still try to fix up one or two of the more major mistakes. The picture is very poor, but what do you guys think? Warpaint22, you have build quite a few of this kit, what do you think of my work? I will take some better pictures when it is sunny. Hopefully you will be able to see better to give some helpful comments that will help my next project.

Looking good and I guess you are having fun. Good progress so far. I took months to get to where you are now. I am just too slow. I am about to put some finishing touch to the VF-0S that I am working on and I think this is a great model. Do you get the feeling that you can't wait to see the finish product? I do. And that causes me to rush and result in mistakes. I hope you are a more patient man than me. Not sure if this is the effect you are aiming for, but I notice that you paint finish is a bit on the grainny side. I normally like to get a smoother finish, so I try to thin my paint much more then normal. This way I do have to paint more layers/coats, because each only lay down very little paint, but it turn out smoother. But for a battoriod, some grainny surface with some right weathering looks great too. Muck like a tank or heavy armour does. Hope you will continue to have fun.

Thanks BigF and Birdman. I reapply the setting solution a few times and it did get a bit better. Didn't completely fix the problem but after some weathering and clear coat, seems like I can live with it. The wrinkle don't shows too much. I am lucky this time I guess. Will show some pictures when my kit is ready. I will definately takes all the advise given here when I work on my next project. It pay to be careful about using setting solution. I definately need more practice with decal. I do have a few quite old kits, I will need to be very careful wiht the decal. I might scan it and reprint it if I can, but decal printing is another area that is difficult for me. Can't seems to find any good source of custom decal printing yet.

I use mr. surfacer 500 or 1000. The grey colored one. I have also tried to de-can a spray can auto-paint primer and thin it and use it with my airbrush. What primer are you using?

It is easy to cover up some panel line when paiting or priming. Especially when using spray can primer. I hate it when it happen. I do not have the skill to rescribe most panel lines. For this Arii kit, the panel line are thicker (compared to a Hasegawa kit) and it is not so bad (harder to lost and easier to recover). Now that you have your airbrush, maybe doing priming using your airbrush will be better. I find that thinning down the primer and apply it using an airbrush give me much more control. It might be too thin to give good filling (when this is needed, I try to do more layer or don't thin the primer so much), but great in avoid filling in fine panel line, especially during second priming after some sanding (where I just want to have a very thin covering to let me know if the surface is smooth). Looks like you are having fun. That is important.

Good strategy. I hope this will turn out to be fun too on top of brushing up on your skills. Looks like you are up to a good start already. Good luck.

I love the colour scheme. I am building up my courage and skill to build my hasegawa 1/72 minmay guard. Hopefully one day I can replace my avatar with my own work. What else would look good with minmay guard v1 or v2 scheme. YF-19? YF-21 ?

Looks fantastic Sonic. I am not brave enough yet to apply such battle damage to my carefully build model. But I would love to try.

Micro set? Ok, have a bottle somewhere, will try that. The hot tower idea seems interesting, never imagine it will work. Thanks for sharing. I might use qtip to avoid burning my fingers.

Thanks guys for the advises. I think I really use too much of micro-sol. Must be careful with it. I still have some decals to apply for this VF-0S, so will start practising with these and hopefully avoid further problems.

Thanks, I will try that and see.

I was told to take regular short break from work. So do look at picture of macross model on the net and visit MWF. Maybe that doesn't count as break. I need to walk away from my workstation....... oh well. Macross is more fun.

I do have a spare set of MG decal. Hmm...... I might try that scheme too. Thanks for sharing.

Nice. Make me feel like starting on my own booster kit. But I think I need a little more practise first. Still working on plastic kit, have not tried any resin kit yet. So afraid that I will mess up this hard to get kit. Any way, will learn a lot from this thread (as I have done from WM Chen's thread) that will help me when I finally start on my own. Thanks PS: what paint shceme are you going for? Standard or something different like your VF-4?

His novel is what started me reading in English when I was in high school. I think the first book of his that I read is "The hammer of God". That was good. Love his short stories as well as full lenght one. His visionary and dramatic effect is a combination that is hard to replace. A very good story teller as well as a visionary science fiction writer. Very sad to head that he is gone. Clarke and Asimov are my best loved science fiction authors.

Hi, I know that from reading on the web that using micro sol on decal will wrinkle them up and as it dried, it will become smooth again. This is true for me most of the time, but on occasion, the wrinkle never goes away: It is not so obvious in the picture, but in real life, you can see it very clearly at some angle. I hope to avoid this in future, but I have no idea what I did wrong. Did I put too much micro sol too soon?

I had problem when I use the decal for some of the black marking. The decal wrinkled up so bad and I don't know how to fix it. Some other marking was painted and it looks better. The panel lines are fine, but I find that I don't need to rescribe any. Just the one I fill and sanded away while fixing seams. The panel lines near the canopy (the nose cone part) is quite fine and I think they might look better rescribed. But I found out too late and since most of it will be hidden anyway, so maybe it is not worth do it (unless you care about unseened details). Here is how mine looks like now. I tried to fix some of the visible lines, but the result is still not great: I plan to finish this kit over the Easter break. This is what it looks like now: I made lots of mistakes and now trying to finish with resonable quality. Hope you will not report my mistakes.

Welcome to the forum. I am building this same kit. I am at the final stage (decal and weathering). I will share some picture soon. Like some others have pointed out, this kit is great (the high level of details if fantastic), but you have to be careful with the fine panel lines. There are quite a lot of seams, some at very obvious or hard to get to places. The tight is a bit weak, I regret not strengthen it. Some of the joint movement can cause paint scrapping (arm and leg joints), so be careful during final assembly after painting. There are lot of black decal patterns, for most of them, it is better to just use mask to paint the parts black. If you have patient, you can get great result with this kit. Good luck.

Any idea about release date? Will the model be launch in April when the airing for the show start? Can't tell if the surface details is good, I hope Bandai will do something resonable is not close to Hasegawa. If they produce something like the Gundam kits, we will either have to add more panel lines (if you have the skill, not me) or wait for years untill Hasegawa have a go in the future.