SteveTheFish

Thanks. the panel variations are more pronounced in the example model photo on the box. I'm afraid of losing some detail if I was to do yet another gloss black coat and redo the silver. There might also be bleed-under. I was lucky to have clean masking lines the first time. The way it is now, it is subtle. I guess I'll be satisfied with that.

Sorry for the double post, but I figured that I would include a pic of my Imai 1:100 Armored VF-1J Valk. Instead of Hikaru's, I'm building it as Millia's. I know there is an old 1:200 scale Millia Armored Valk by Nichimo, but their proposed color scheme is just a bit weird. I've decided to make mine uniform with Hikaru's, particularly because I have leftover paint mix from my simultaneous Hasegawa 1:72 Armored Valk build. I just realize that I need to paint the head cannons and mono eye too. Other than that, I'll be ready to do a clear coat and apply some aftermarket decals. The decals this kit comes with are most likely toast. As you can see, I have articulated the crap out of this, using Wave's ball joints, Hobby Base's mecha hands (I don't like the silly ham fists the kit comes with), and some polycaps leftover from Gunpla builds. I'm too chicken to put them together just yet, and will wait until I'm ready to do so at the end after the decals are down and sealed. Hopefully it won't look awkward, but at least it won't be in such a stiff pose as it would be built straight out of the box without augmentation.

The gloss white/gloss black scheme is interesting, but unfortunately I think I applied too many layers of silver paint, making the black panels a bit too subtle. The wing flaps are Mr. Color 8 Silver, while the rest of the plane is Mr. Color SM201 Super Fine Silver 2. You can barely see that the nose, engine cowlings, rear parts of the nacelles, and vertical stabilizers are a bit deeper color. I should not have applied too many layers of paint and let them show the darker color more. It was my first time attempting this, and I thought that after the paint dried, they would be more visible. So... I dunno... Do you think it's worth re-masking and giving these panels another shot? Or just fall forward? BTW, in the background you can see the old Imai 1:100 Armored Valk that I am building up as Millia's red VF-1J.

I was hoping for a Glaug or a Gnerl, but perhaps those will be slated for November/December if they do come out.

Macross Plus Battroid and a blue Max Q-Rau!

Less than 24 hours from now, at 12 noon local Japan time, Hasegawa will announce their summer release schedule for June & July, ahead of the Shizuoka Hobby Show next month. https://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/202406_7new/

I've finished airbrushing my P-38 with gloss white with gloss black panels. When I spray the kit with a silver overcoat, these alternate panels will show through differently.

An update on the modification I'm making to my old 1:100 scale Imai Armored Valkyrie. I'm adding ball joints to enhance articulation. https://odysee.com/@stevethefishdotnet:2/Imai-Macross-1100-Armored-VF-1J-Valkyrie-plamo-build-2-マクロス　アーマードバルキリー:2

Big S is right; I was talking about using lacquer thinner to clean up metal parts.

Yes, it looks like that to me. So the order of the pewter (?) landing gears for the P-38 Lightning. Am I supposed to prep this somehow, or just apply some metal primer and just paint it? Do I need to soak these in lacquer thinner or something first?

That looks good to me! I'd say using German Gray for those dark parts would be good. Thanks! The Imai/Bandai instruction booklet color choices suck. It suggests using purple for what looks like very light gray to me. I think I might try switching to Mr. Color 66 Bright Green for the main body color after all.

Hey guys, I'm colorblind, so a little help would be appreciated. I have my Imai/Banda Q-Rau primed and ready for painting. I was thinking of using Tamiya XF-27 Black Green for the upper arms, thighs, feet, etc and Mr. Color 135 Russian Green 1 for the body, forearms, legs, etc. Would this be appropriate? Any suggestions? I already painted the feet and such with Mr. Color 136 Russian Green 2 (which is darker), but it's just not dark enough. That's why I was thinking of going with the Black Green color. (And FYI since there is always somebody who doesn't know what being colorblind entails, I can see colors, but sometimes my perception of color can be a bit... slippery, if that makes sense. I have to see some colors next to other colors in order for me to realize what they are. Especially red/green/brown can be confusing to me.)

So awesome!

Thanks! Yes, I hadn't thought about it sagging under the weight. Incidentally, I happen to have an HLJ coupon for my recent birthday I can use on it. Thanks for the tip!

For the Hasegawa P-38, you attach the nacelles to the underside of the wingspan/cockpit and then the underside of the wings. The connection between the engine nacelles and the top part isn't very good. It will require a lot of filing. The nose requires a lot of weight to keep it from becoming a tail sitter. 35g!

Yeah, the proportions on Breetai's flagship are off. I'd think the model would need to be longer or something. It's too brick-ish and needs to be tapered.

Oh yes, and I've been recently working on a batch project of all four of ARII's Zentraedi capital ships: Breetai's flagship, Kamjin's flagship, the LST, and the standard battleship. I've put two videos on YT of this build so far.

I got back to my 1:48 Hasegawa P-38J "Virginia Marie" build. I added Fine Molds' seatbelts to add detail and they look nice. People complain about the wheel wells on the engine nacelles and I see what they mean. They could have been engineered a bit better, with locator teeth to get them to fit together more tightly. The halves also require a lot of sanding for the seamlines. It's unfortunate because the panel lines are already so shallow. I have the 1:48 P-38G by Tamiya too. My wife bought it for me for my birthday a few years ago. I want to build this Hasegawa one first to give me more of an appreciation. Then my friend in the UK sent me a 1:72 P-38J by Matchbox. The decals are only so-so. I've been talking to the gentleman at Bestfong Decals in Taiwan to order a set of Republic of China Air Force decals for it.

Bandai completely retooled those Tsukuda kits. I built the Tsukuda Ohmu kit a long time ago. I bought the Bandai version and they resculpted Nausicaa's face and it looks far better.

Found these on Pinterest!

I only wish... (Found on Pinterest.) Apparently Kaneda-san isn't interested in doing this, though.

Nice! I love the YF-23. For a while, the Japanese government was considering resurrecting the YF-23 and adopt it as their stealth fighters to eventually replace the Mitsubishi F-2 (their bigger, beefed-up version of the F-16). I was excited at this prospect, but they ultimately decided to instead invest in an all-new design rather than resurrecting a 20+ year old fighter. I bought the old Dragon 1:72 scale YF-23 kit. It's not as accurate, but it's cheap. I ended up not using the decal sheet at all, and instead used a bunch of spare decals to instead build mine as a hypothetical JASDF F-23 as though Japan had gone ahead and adopted it into Japan's air force. Here is my build. I did a meticulous digital camo scheme from scratch. https://stevethefishdotnet.tumblr.com/post/691120707641507841/dragon-172-yf-23-hypothetical-jasdf-plastic-model

Me too, and yes, I see the same thing.

They're apparently not fond of capitalizing proper nouns these days...

I believe I've seen that one before. Several years ago I had one of Minmay and a Valk, but unfortunately it broke. The Kanteidan store I found it at had a ton of them. I should have bought a second one!