Boobytrap

Weathering step one is done. Just need it to dry so I can seal it and move on to step two. Still have some work to do but the base colors for the sled are coming along. I really hate my phone camera. These all came out way too dark. Once the figure is closer to completion I'll take some better pictures with my DSLR.

OOOOoooooo... Well I certainly would be interested. I'd try to swing three if you also included parts to make the grunt (blue) version as well. Would now be a good time to see the desire from others or do you have enough on your plate that it would be best to wait a little bit?

Fantastic paint job. But, yeah, Captain would make that sculpt look like something you would get out of a dime store vending machine. I've derailed this thread enough though. If it gets made that will be awesome. If not, se la vie. Now let's get back to some more bioroids! Hopefully some other modelers out there will have some pics to share soon. I'd like to see how others are putting their spin on this work of art.

That's fair but I was looking for 1/60 vs 1/100 (although I'd take any scale TBH). And while I haven't seen the model you are referring to (didn't even know it existed) I highly doubt it comes anywhere close to the level Captain can produce. Don't forget Captain's beautiful Legioss, so don't be so quick to squash my dreams 😁.

You convinced me. I posted the suggestion in Cap's thread. Fingers crossed he can make yet another dream come true.

Hey Captain, what would it take to get a gigmesh from Macross II? Is this something you would even consider? I think we have a few Macross fans around here so we could probably scrape together a few interested parties.

Let's not forget some other under represented series' that could sorely use the Captain's attention. If I had the funds to sponsor a project my number one all-time ultimate want would be the gigamesh from Macross II. But I know this isn't the Captain wish list thread so I'll just sigh in longing and move on. I have completed the modifications I intend to do for the sled. Nothing big for this update. I added some brackets at the base of the yoke to match some of the images I saw. I also added wire mesh to the foot pads. I think it will give a nice break to the solid colors (I'll be painting the base black and the mesh metallic) and add some visual interest. I just need to clean a few things up and it is ready for paint. Thank you very much for the pictures @tekering. I think the one in the upper left will be the perfect format. I've started my plans for it. There will be a raised section to the left, the main path with the sled in the middle, and a sunken section with a bit of the city (or whatever that is) on the right. I'll probably add a spire or two in the back. It will, of course, have lights throughout. It is going to be a pretty decent size at 350mm x 350mm but I don't want the sled to feel cramped. Hopefully I can have it done in time for the Captain's contest, but I doubt it, I also want to echo your point. I have never done a project concurrently with someone else as well. While I feel like I am constantly playing catch up (I work on this at least 2 hours a day every day so I have no idea how you manage to get 3 times the amount of work done faster than me. An army of Ted bear clones?!) it has been a blast collaborating with you.

Looking good. Subtle but eye catching. I would say that the heaviest areas of shading should be where there is the most foot traffic along with engine and exhaust/thruster areas. In my opinion I would put less around the yoke area and more in between the foot pads. The front is also a little too clean. For my progress I've managed to complete the following: I've wired some LED's to the thrusters. I plan to have it mounted on an acrylic rod and a custom built base replicating the surface of the mothership. If you happen to have close up pictures of the mothership surface which you could share Ted it would be most appreciated . Based on Ted's images and pointing out some areas that could be improved I've made some modifications. I built a frame for the rear exhaust to make it look recessed. I carved out notches in the fairings. I added 1mm plate to the left and right front top to give a raised appearance for that outline rather than just the joint line (which I had erroneously removed). I also added plates to the inside rear sides to create recessed lines like those on the outside. For the figure I am satisfied enough with the base colors so that I can move on to washes and weathering. Some of the lines aren't as crisp as I would like them (my Tamiya tape was giving me all kinds of issues with this project) but I am expecting that the next steps will hide any of those faults. The red I chose is darker and not as saturated as it looks in the pictures.

Got mine in at HLJ. fingers crossed for confirmation email. Edit - just received confirmation email. That was fast.

Sunnuva... where were these pictures when I was doing my work? I can't even tell you how much time, putty, and primer I spent removing the joint line on the top and making the surface between them level. Now I see that it was supposed to be there ! I guess I'll glue a piece of styrene to the top to emulate this picture where it appears that it should be curved and raised. One error I am going to have to live with is the end caps on the handle bar drum. Every image I found had the line on the caps parallel with the connecting handle bar (like the upper right sled in your first image). Now I see it should be more like a forward slash. I'd have to destroy the drum to reangle those at this point. You've made a grown man weep today. Good job. In all seriousness I do appreciate the images. They and your work have inspired me to make some other changes. Back to the drawing board (or hobby mat in this case). I guess dremeling and filling in a channel for the LED wires doesn't seem like such a task now. I prefer to do wires so that I can plug them in and turn them on with a switch or remote.

I was planning on doing the same thing but hadn't decided how to run the wires to keep them out of sight. I figured that I would have to dremel out a channel on the underside and then putty over them. How did you solve it?

Is this the first metal robot damashii from Dunbine? I tried an internet search and only came up with the non-metal ones. Not much of a fan of the Billbine but I'd really like a metal RD Dunbine

Great minds think alike. Here's what I am using for mine. Also putting magnets in a few places

Yeah, I tried there too. They were all too large, too expensive, the wrong style, or some combination thereof. Thanks for the thought though.

Unfortunately for me it's turning out to be quite the inconvenience. Since these are for finger joints I ideally need them in 2 or 3mm (4mm if forced to). I've tried searching for Revoltech, Figma, and Figurart joints. I've gone to every site I can think of including Shapeways. The best I can find is eBay where they are charging $5 for ONE joint. It's especially frustrating because apparently Max Factory was taking orders for sets of 20 2mm figma joints for only 660 yen through April this year. So before I spend $30 + shipping does anyone else here know a more affordable place to get these things?

Thanks for the tip. That should make the search easier. Any idea what the mm on those are? I'm planning to leave the head static. I could probably mount a post inside the torso with a ball or Hot Toys joint on the end and carve out a hole in the head to put on that (edit* after thinking about it I would instead put a plate inside the torso with a ring magnet on top and another ring magnet on the underside of the helmet. That would give good adhesion, perfect rotation, and no torque) but it would all be for naught. This is the commander type so the chest lamp (or what ever that thing is) and back thrusters would limit any movement other than an ever so slight turn to the right. Definitely not worth the effort.

Agreed with both parts. The test fitting was pretty easy and customizing it is what makes it all yours. Right now I am working on the joints. My goal is to make it a completely stable action figure. So far I have replaced the post in the shoulder with a screw and a washer in between the two halves. A screw in the elbow. The part of the screw in the forearm doesn't have threads so it can rotate easily. Replaced the ball joints for the the wrists and toes with Hot Toys joints. I've got a bunch of them filling up my parts bin so it was nice to find a use for them. I then did a screw and slot in the hip ball joint. That last one was a really difficult decision as I knew it would be the hardest to hide but I couldn't think of a better solution so just bit the bullet and did it. I haven't figured out how to do the fingers yet. I don't have small enough ball joints for those. Hopefully I can find something on ebay that will work. I'll probably just pin the thumbs and swap them out as needed. ** unless of course cap somehow has some extra palms laying around so that I can make two sets of hands with the different thumbs 😁** I still need to recess some things a little better (and eventually put covers on the elbows and hips) but overall they are functioning as expected.

Returned from vacation to find this waiting for me. I couldn't wait to get started. This is the initial test fitting. Me admiring it... Beautiful.mp4

I can't even express how excited I am for this! It's always amazing to me how quickly you get things out the door. I'm used to waiting a year or two for many of the things I purchase.

OMG It's really happening!! Woo hoo

With this being a holiday weekend for those of us in the US I doubt there will be much of a chance for additional orders. One last bump to keep hope alive for the second run. I have my tissues of disappointment ready just in case.

How close are we? Biting my nails hoping we get to 12.

Payment sent. So that makes at least 1. Come on MW make my second run dreams come true.

Shameless selfish bump to keep this on the first page. I really need the second run to happen. You don't want this to be me if we don't get to 12.