Duymon
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Everything posted by Duymon
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After i color match the brown on top i think I'll copy mj's poics and color my lerxe too. The 25 is easu to disassemble to get access to that area for masking
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omg is that the old crappy gerwalk brace from the v1 armored pack i see there? Guess my tornado valks are gonna stay in fighter.......
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I had to add stripes to my 25A. I couldn't take the no stripes :0 Still need to do some clean up on some corners but I think it looks way better :0
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Don't see what's up with all the hate. Just happy to have an RVF-171 at all. I will most definitely mod the stand in some way because it looks way too big. Got a pretty good idea how I'll do it too. The RVF-25 had small attachment pieces as a compromise for the antennae and I wasn't expecting anything different for the 171. As for the triangles, I'm crossing my fingers that Bandai doesn't uses the same crappy plastic as last time, and that they use the Alto 171 plastic which was defect-free. Anyhow, can't wait to get three of these in October
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Be careful with putting on too much. Also, only coat one surface, ie don't coat both the ball and the socket. Make sure you use something that is able to self-level. If you go the future route make sure to slowly add on the layers an let each layer cure 100% before going to the next. It'll take a while but with the self leveling properties of future it'll turn out very well imho. if possible, I would just dip the ball joints into future, then let cure, then repeat.
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It was this or the VF-171
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I rehabbed it and it's the fighter on the way left
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All the kits have correct pins, no need to worry about breakage.
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Wow AE is fast O_O they already shipped my Alto via EMS. Honestly I don't mind paying up front so I will use AE as much as I can in the future. My YF-25 and VF-25F purchases could not be any smoother :0
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Nope... that's a renewal 25G they are on :0 the wing mounted stuff worked just fine
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You need to put the speakers on michael :0
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I don't understand how people find the VF-171 transformation frustrating. But then again I'm one of those masochists that regularly transforms his VF-22's......
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I never had that issue and I had a lot of fast-packed 1/48 VF-1's back in the day. However, I always removed the FP's before and after transformation. This Vs This It was a big step back for me which is why I didn't buy a 1/60 v2 until last year after I decided I really wanted a VF-1 to match my frontier valks.
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I got two of them at release, and the 3rd I just bought recently via Evilbay for 240 shipped (ouch) AE is totally legit. If you don't want to stress out, get EMS. Sure you can get the cheapy option but they use Sagawa logistics and it's a total PITA to track. EMS rates are comparable to HLJ or Mandarake, not uber crazy like NY, CDJ or Plamoya
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To me the battroid bracket is no different from the fast pack brackets on the v2 vf-1's. Those drive me totally nuts as they kill the fighter and gerwalk side profiles
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Why do you think there are nine of them? Lol the alto ones though are awesome. Totally stable and non exploding
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THe 171's werent' junk, they are great when they worked as intended like the early Yammy VF-1's V2's or the VF-0's.
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Got my 5th alto......... cuz I don't wanna disturb my current display to put one in tornado parts :0 Now to find a 4th 25G :0
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at 4:45, kinda hard to miss when they highlight it in purple. It plugs into the top of the crotch. They prolly added the brace piece because this sucker looks pretty back heavy and maybe they had doubts about that peg being able to hold all that weight
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I am just glad to have a yf-30 produced in the first place. Only will have one in battroid anywho so I could care less.
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he only needs to make one-sided molds. Sounds crazy but cuz I am lazy i just use mold putty mixed one to one by hand, press the putty onto the piece on a flat surface, then make molds from the impression. dont get cheap quick resins like alumilite unless you love bubbles. I use smooth on and after a pour into the one piece i cheat by putting the mold against a large flat surface like a cd-case. After cure, very minimal cept for some flash that got between the mold and the flat surface. This only works for one piece molds, two piecers are a whole different ball game
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Saburo's setup is pretty nice. Light box with black backdrop and a reflection board goes a very long way in making great looking photos.
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i want a mei leelong custom from mac30 :0
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they could sell a lot more vf-27's if it were a nice low viz grey instead of magenta. Heck, Luca woulda sold way more had his valk been a nice low viz grey with yellow nosecone like the elintseeker. Off color valks = meh.... it's really a shame cuz it's actually a pretty nice mold
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Alcohol with some precision will solve that really easy. If that scares you too much you can remove that triangle peace (they are really lightly glued) and get a fine sanding stick. I recommend Squadron fine grit Sanding Stick Use the black rough lightly to remove the blue, use white on a bigger area to soften the scratches and then the grey to buff it to a silky smooth. (only on the white plastic obviously) Or you could always use your fingernail and scratch really hard I guess
