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modelglue

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Everything posted by modelglue

  1. modelglue
    Ok thanks for the feedback. I bought a 1/72 Yamato VF-19 ver. 3 for the same purposes I stated, but next to a hasegawa model of the like, it looks much too chunky and the design has been crushed to allow for a utilitarian transformation. I expect that the departure from the original anime aesthetics is necessary, if only to aid in durability.
  2. modelglue
    I have read all kinds of good things about the "black label" MM paint line, the alkyd (oil based) kind. My problem with them is the smell, clean up, and expendable cost of buying thinners and solvents. That is the only reason I stick with acrylics like tamiya, MM Acrily and vallejo to name a few. I also use games workshop paints where I can, you can mix some pretty good colours out of their range and they even make a pink to satisfy S.MC! BTW, was that sig line always there? ^ I would water down the toothpaste into a slurry like you would get in your mouth. I have yet to try this but the guys who build for magazines all promote the use along side purpose made plastic polish.
  3. modelglue
    Hey guys, I am wondering who has experience with this kit: https://www.google.ca/search?q=BANDAI+1/100+VF-19+Variable+Model+Kit&hl=en-GB&biw=1280&bih=685&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=5tI9VN7nOtCuyATjgYLIAQ&ved=0CBwQsAQ I am wondering if it is on par with their YF-29 snap fit kit as far as details go. This is a transformable kit, as far as I can see, and so it would be a huge bonus if it was detailed nicely to go along with the gimmicks. I would like to do a conversion for the 1/72 Hasegawa YF-19 model kit, and I want to use a VF-19Kai kit as the basis. Thanks for any comments.
  4. modelglue
    Whoa that came out of nowhere. What scale is that?
  5. modelglue
    I must not have coated the model well enough with my airbrushed future coating. Worse, the Tamiya ink has bled under a decal, which I thought was both sealed and flush before that. I used setting solution to get everything to snuggy down, but I might have to get out the magnifying glass in future builds to make absolutely sure. I typically mix future into my colours too, usually half or slightly less by ratio. This tends to give me at least a satin to semi-gloss sheen that I haven't had problems with before this. I can only chalk it up to user error and experience building. I just wish it wasn't on a kit this large, expensive, and most importantly, progressed.
  6. modelglue
    That's incredible. There is a 5.0 GT in the lot I am working at today. It's that nice royal blue, and 46K CAD. I've notified my wife, but I doubt she'll approve. The 2.3L is a nice alternative to the ground pounding V8's. I just worry about turbo maintenance and burn out. Is that still a concern?
  7. modelglue
    Maybe it served as inspiration? I wish the twin radial Tigercat was a bit earlier. I would love to model one in a D-Day scheme. Gloss Dark Sea Blue is pretty great too though. So what would happen to that wing when the Spit' reached maximum altitude? Surely the cold air would shrink it. I am probably imagining that is was more of an alignment tool, rather than a fastener. That is a cool fact, about the mirror.
  8. modelglue
    It seems to me that the Delta wing, canard and thrust vector are the closest things in combination to what you are asking. Fly by wire certainly plays a role in a hand full of current US jets. Thank you for that, it was new to me. So basically, jam an F-14 onto a pair of VF-0 legs, give it a chin laser and some kites. I can do that. I have never been a fan of Gerwalk/Guardian mode, ever. I can see the appeal from a mech' perspective, but the wings and aircraft nose ruin it. Thankfully we are no where near that in the real world. What I would like to see is a move towards Yukikaze styles, with forward sweep and canards. I thnk fly by wire and thrust vector have matured enough (in some countries) to allow this.
  9. modelglue
    Thanks GU. I think I will buy another and start over though, the panel lines are irreconcilable, and the decals have silvered badly after a clear coat! D'oh well.
  10. modelglue
    I woke my wife up laughing. MTM is further proof that while some of us are seeking enlightenment through anime, the remainder of humanity circles the drain.
  11. modelglue
    The tweezers are for my models, I swear. But honestly, if it comes down to my wife not wanting to look at me, they'll get used on my face. I usually go out of my way to get the newer Revell AG kits, and the Hasegawa items repacked as Revell kits. I also like the MPM stuff Revell has sold, a wayyy cheaper alternative to buying the Czech brands. I know what yo mean about being duped though, with the recent Airfix "new" stuff I accidentally bought a WW2 russian fighter plane with...raised panel lines. The horror. Even after the store owner swore it was a new mold. Ultimately it comes down to personal taste regarding molding style and detail levels. I tend to go for consistency, which kits original to Tamiya, Hasegawa, Fine Molds, Fujimi, Dragon, and some Revell do well. I don't mind the odd Trumpeter rivet fest, as I can fill these in. But re-releasing an old kit with scale inconsistency and tennis ball rivets is a slap in the face to the modelling community. I feel strongly about this, but i'll leave lotion out of it. I saw the new Bandai star wars stuff on HLJ, the X-wing and tie were 1900ish Yen each. Not bad. I think Fine Molds still have some decent 1/72 versions too, but I don't own any so can't say for certain.
  12. modelglue
    I call that: "The time before Power Rangers". Back to swing wings, I watch a documentary recently about the Panavia Tornado. In the film, they showed maintenance to the wing box, and the pivot for the swing wing. The tolerances were so tight, that they had to freeze the connecting pin in something cold and liquid for 24hrs before pressure fitting it into the wing and box to replace the wing on the aircraft. Ultimately, Swingies are my favourites of the aircraft world and naturally my love of VFs extends from this. Would someone please create a variable Tomcat and sell it in Battroid and Fighter mode? Please?
  13. modelglue
    I would like to thank the previous seven posters for slamming those dusty memoires out from the back of my cluttered mind, and making a boring day totally awesome. In return, I offer this: https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en-GB&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=980&bih=1185&q=cobra+raven+jet&oq=cobra+raven+jet&gs_l=img.12...3894.17244.0.20526.25.19.4.2.2.0.689.5683.2j7j3j1j0j6.19.0....0...1c.1.55.img..10.15.1841.eZPLgdtIhZE
  14. modelglue
    Ahh, 1/48 kits are pretty easy to handle these days. You can always get a hobby boss 1/72 kit from their easy assembly range. They still build up nicely but take the pain out of construction. Im not sure but you might be able to read a few online reviews to find out which of the 1/48 models out there are of basic construction but still offer modern moldings.
  15. modelglue
    Mmmm, that looks fairly acceptable to me. I think for a perfectly glossy surface you might have to bake the paint like some auto manufacturers do. Automotive polishes are used by modellers too, who often spray up to ten thin coats with a 1200 grit sanding between each. This is if you are looking for a factory gloss that is something you would see on a show car. It can be done, but it takes practice, skill, patience and experience. The spoon you have posted would fall under "glossy" for me personally. I have been happy with model car finishes which were less perfect than that!
  16. modelglue
    I am a bit jealous that you 1/48 guys get all the attention these days, but maybe you deserve it.... Since we can get pretty much anything in 1/72. I'd love to see your work when you build those Thom.
  17. modelglue
    Thanks micky, I feel the same way, so much so that I managed to stash five of these kits away.
  18. modelglue
    I have been trying to get a few 'real' kits done, since my unbuilt pile keeps growing and my Macross builds aren't going anywhere. Here is what I have done recently: This Arado E.555 was a planned bomber, but never made. It is the Revell AG kit in 1/72. I keep having bleed off around he panel lines using Tamiya panel line accent wash. The capillary action of the flat paint is just drawing it out onto the surface. I think the initial failure to get everything flowing properly has put this build on the back burner. This is the underside, I used citadel black wash on the gear wells, which I am happy with. I haven't done any panel line inking yet. Dragon's 1/72 P-61B Black Widow. One of my favourite kits and this is my second time building it. The panel line consistency isn't very good. I will have to deepen the lines that just aren't holding the grey Tamiya wash. This looks much more contrasting in the photos, hopefully a coating of matte or satin will calm down the tone differences. The green on the turret is squadron putty. I found some deeper scratch marks on the turret shell after I reshaped it to the static turret style. The machine gun barrels are from quickboost, the kit supplies simple plastic rods which don't feature any cooling jacket perforations. I will repaint the turret with vallejo black, should cover well enough. I stretched out the nose of the "A" version on this kit by slicing the needed section of the "B" style radome. The "B" radome supplied in the kit is too narrow and tapers weirdly. I rescribed some panel line detail to match plans I have.
  19. modelglue
    I have the same problem with my HP-C. Maybe it is just age? I have taken it apart enough times now that the threads might be slightly worn to the point where the tolerances are null. I should get a new set too.
  20. modelglue
    Very cool wip. I have similar intentions with my kits. Will you be painting them all as part of the same squadron?
  21. modelglue
    Yeah, it has curdled on me, using alcohol and windex. The part about it killing your airbrush is not true for me, I have had an Iwata HP-C for ten years and I have only run acrylic through it. No problems when I cleaned the gummed vallejo out. I have a cheap ultrasonic cleaner off ebay that I fill with windex and bath it in after every use. This is a new tool though, for the 9 out of 10 years I was running to the sink with it!
  22. modelglue
    Amen to all this. That Phantom is killer. I have a couple of the Luftwaffe RoG kits on deck in 1/72. I have a 'Nam fujimi kit in SEA camo, but that can wait. I love that movie. Thanks for bringing that up, I wouldn't have noticed otherwise. I'll have to look into the variable cranial implant you write about.
  23. modelglue
    I have a cap for mine, but the paint doesn't usually take too long to dry between coats using alcohol in your mix. I tend to use the airbrush to dry the paint, by simply spraying air over the colour I just put down, then I can make another pass. Would building up light coats of your glossy paint eventually "glossify" the model? I'll try this sometime myself. With vallejo, I have had problems with it curdling on me when I add my standard thinners (alcohol and windex sometimes). I use just the paint and future now, nothing else. It gives me a glossier and obviously darker colour which is better for panel lining and decal application. As for Chyll2's comment on Future/Pledge products, that is the first time I have heard anyone have a negative experience. Sorry to hear that bud!
  24. modelglue
    GU-11, I use tamiya paints almost exclusively. They are cheap, and usually easy to find even in my region where hobby isn't that big. I thin mine with 90% Isopropyl alcohol, or ISP as it is sometimes labelled. I find this at my local department store: Walmart. I have used 70% and 99% in the past, the stronger solution usually leaves my models feeling a bit gritty as it dries extremely quickly. I also add a small amount of Future (floor polish, now called Pledge with future, also available at department stores) to my airbrush and mix that with a brush. If I am trying to do soft camo patterns on aircraft (1/72) then I usually drop the pressure right off to 7-10 like you have done, and the paint consistency goes way thin, with the use of alcohol. You can't even see the first pass. I usually have to build up 10 or more passes, but what you get is this: I use a 50/50 mix of alcohol and future (pledge) to seal the paint in, and then decal. Then another sealer coat of the same before either matte or gloss coating. I would use future to gloss coat my models if that was an option. Future has several qualities that will make your life as a hobbyist awesome. I won't go into all of them, but try focusing on colour fidelity with your paint rather than trying to achieve that perfect finish. You can use a clear layer to achieve that, and even use car polishes to go further. Hope that helps!
  25. modelglue
    I am watching Muv Luv Alternative: Total Eclipse, and I am really loving the action. The series isn't just 'blow up the bad guys' all the time, there exist the constants with Anime of course. The best thing about it so far is the shift in plot that I really didn't see coming. I felt the overall conflicts up to the recap episode were sufficient enough to keep me watching. Without spoiling I can tell you that it gets much more involved and real. I tried watching Dominion Tank Police, and Area 88, but I think I missed the nostalgia boat on these as I didn't find them entertaining. That isn't to say that someone else won't enjoy them with a cold start like I had. Deadman Wonderland has been really quick to develop, I'm into about ep 3 now. So brutal. Blood+ I go back to occasionally, but I think I chopped up the story so much between stops and starts I am not getting the full appreciation. Gurren Lagann was really out there. I didn't watch too much of it. The mecha was a bit too juvenile for me. Watched all the ARISE borders, found #3 to be slow, but maybe I was so enamoured with the appearance of new tanks, that the excitement over shadowed my sentiments. I am wishing for more Vampire Bund to show up on Canadian Netflix, among others. Sigh.
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