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Posts posted by Nyankodevice

  1. On 7/25/2022 at 11:24 AM, arbit said:

    Whoaaaa looking good.   Which line art are you using for the city, or are you making it up as you go?

    Thx... Making it up as I go xD

    On 7/25/2022 at 7:26 PM, derex3592 said:

    See......that's what I always thought too!!! City was in the center section of the ship with parts that perhaps extended into the legs that we were never shown in the original show. 

    As I understand it, the center of the ship is the military base and factories

  2. On 6/8/2022 at 8:45 AM, tekering said:

    Thanks for all the kind words, gentlemen.  I appreciate the encouragement. 😊

    This week, I've focused on the conning tower sensor package and communication relay equipment -- you know, those two iconic circles inset on the starboard side of the bridge, and the antennae on top -- very little of which was represented on the vintage toy.


    Like, they didn't even try🙄


    So, I drilled, cut, and filed out most of the area where the detail was missing, and mounted a styrene plate behind it.


    Wave has a set with multiple sizes of verniers intended for this kind of customizing, and I figured a couple of the tiny ones would suit my needs well enough:


    They're the right size, but too thick to suggest the massive scale I'm after.  I used my dental files to drill out the center of each, giving a greater sense of depth and considerably thinning down the sidewalls.


    After painting, they started to look as I'd envisioned.


    I then used parts from Tamiya's "Waterline Series" of 1:700 battleships to kitbash the communications array on top of the conning tower:


    The large antennae behind the conning tower (which were properly represented on the original toy, until they inevitably broke off) were reproduced using two different gauges of paper clips.


    With tiny holes drilled into the plastic to securely mount the metal parts, I can be assured these antennae will never break off! :good:


    That's the basic aesthetic I'm working towards, which is why I've decided to eschew photo-etched parts, hyper-detailing or realistic weathering for this project.  I'm trying to maintain the look of a mass-produced toy, rather than a model kit.  

    The most difficult part of this process, for me, is deciding where to draw the line.

    nice.. this looks clean, awesome job... keep up the good work :D


  3. 2 hours ago, arbit said:

    Mega Macross-Bash!  Looks like a VF-2SS with a bunch of other stuff.

    Great job with the hard surface modeling designs.  Do you like this CAD software you are using?  

    it is a VF-2SS, well the front of it anyway xD

    the software is TinkerCad and i find the software a bit clunky to use, but as long as it is mechanical parts i need and not organic shapes,

    its fine i guess. its actually easy to make parts for macross in tinkercad, because of the philosofy behind the original macross designs

  4. On 5/28/2022 at 8:50 PM, Mommar said:

    Oh shoot, the Man, the Myth, the Legend returns!

    lol. hey Mommar

    On 5/28/2022 at 8:52 PM, Mommar said:

    So these two things are your own designs?  The bigger one is a really incredible design.

    yeah they are made from various parts from different sets.. xD



    SDF-1  greeblies part 1



  5. 4 hours ago, MechTech said:

    Things have been busy here lately! Here are some project updates. We had a Sci-Fi theme this past club meeting, so it was time to complete EVERYTHING with little bits waiting in the wings.

    The oldest project was the AV-98 (2), I believe. Finally completed that! I LOVE this kit! Model accuracy with near "action figure" pose-ability.

    A couple of building tips to help you with this one. Parts are Styrene and ABS. Superglue works, but could tough to get in small spots. I used Acetone which fused both together great. You might need a little more than standard thin cements. Acetone dries QUICK!



    This kit has dry transfers and stickers. When you're careful, the transfers are awesome and look clean - no clear "halo" around decals and no clear coat needed (unless you want to seal it). I left off the clear coat since it could get scratched and look funny over time. You can see the micro power switch and push-button for switching light modes.

    The "Remington 870" looking shotgun "chambered for 90mm rounds!" It actually has a pump-action movement!


    I SUCK at painting figures! The PVC material didn't glue well either with super glue. The bad glue job didn't show up until paint was applied. I found out later that Acetone works on gluing this material too! Isao Ota's eyes came out looking like he was high. So what do you do when you look high (not that'd I know), you wear sunglasses! So I took sprue, shaped it and cut thin slivers to make him sunglasses. Now its harder to tell when he's angry all the time under there.😁


    The 1/35th ARMOR Diorama was basically done, but needed a creative label for it. There were pictures posted before of the shell being soldered and lacquered. It took three tries to get this right. Here's the completed label now. "Assault Reconnaissance Mechanized Operations Robot."


    The Turbo Spitfire is coming along slowly. LOTS of repainting parts to get a good finish on the name plate (to be shown later). A Zinc Chromate looking undercoating was applied. This will show up with chips and rub marks under the main color later on.


    While waiting for paint to dry, I started work on the next base for an upcoming project. It is a sliver of oak cut from a fallen tree. It looked so cool and organic, I knew it would get used one day. Pegs were added to level-out the top of it.


    That's it for now. Back to the Spitfire (hopefully this weekend). Thanks for checking in! - MT



    never seen those 1/35 mechs, but i love them xD

  6. thanks to Massassi Order on thingiverse

    i have this...

    and im gonna add lots of these as details on the ship





    also i have printed these for the other half of the city







    and since i already changed the design on the cannons i ought to change the design on the large missile turrets






    this is all for now...

    oh and here a turrets in its right place


  7. 1 hour ago, pengbuzz said:

    I know I've been quiet here since I finished my last couple of projects; let me show you what's currently going on...

    I've been working on the 1/72 Hasegawa Armored Valkyrie kit, and while working, got an idea for a concept I'm not sure anyone has done before.

    Introducing the GBP-1LDU (Lunar Defense Unit); code name: Major Tom-

    This unit is intended to operate from the lunar surface/ medium lunar orbit. In addition to the standard loadout, it also comes equipped with dual-phase flat plare vernier thrusters (for added maneuverability), thermal coating and heat ablative blanketing in sensitive areas (operating in direct sun for extended periods), UV/ solar glare reflective gold tint coating on optics and canopy (to prevent burnout of targeting optics/ scanners and blinding of operator), two "Artemis' Hammer" reaction-warhead missiles and two RMS-1 Heavy Reaction Missiles (both rail- mounted to propulsion units on back).

    Note: this is a work in progress (WIP), and as such, is still somewhat rough and missing some details. More to be added as I go.

    Stay tuned...



    great idea, cant wait to se it finished!

  8. 12 hours ago, Knight26 said:

    AMazing detail, even at that scale.  What is the ship in the background?


    11 hours ago, 505thAirborne said:


    It's just something I make for fun, different ships in scale 1/1600






  9. 32 minutes ago, arbit said:

    If I might make a suggestion: It looks like your small-scale valk wings are disintegrating.  I have had the same problem when scaling 3D objects down. 

    Sometimes, for 3D Printing very thin objects, you need to "solidify" them, i.e. make them thicker.  3D Builder, Netfab and Microsoft 3D Repair fix a lot of problems, but they will not solidify an object for you. 

    One option you can use right away is Meshmixer to "Make Solid". You can check youtube for some tutorials.  It is a trial and error process to make an object solid using different "Offset" parameters, until you get a result you like which thickens, yet maintains a nice appearance.  In some case you may thicken an entire model, or in other cases you may separate parts to thicken an individual part of the model giving problems.

    Another option is to use Blender "Solidify" Modifier as a first step before Meshmixer, to give a completely non-3d model some depth.

    Additionally, in whatever design software you use like Blender, you can select specific parts of a model that are too thin to print and thicken them using various techniques (such as fatten, extrude, scale).

    Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

    Thanks for that info, I'll look into it.


    What you see on the wing is a leftover fragment from the support that I forgot to remove

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