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arbit

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About arbit

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  1. arbit

    M+ ghost X-9

    Xigfrid, that's sooo cool. I love the Sharon gimmick.
  2. What is your sanding process to eliminate the 3D print lines? I always struggle with anything printed to come out smooth.
  3. arbit

    Macross figures

    Oh my... Is it 1985 again?
  4. Are you sure that is printed not resin cast? I dont see those print lines. Nice little SDF-1 there. In many ways I like the look of those old molds better than the modern kits. Any more pics?
  5. I listen to takering. Thanks dude! I was really hating this figure.
  6. Yes stay right here! Its interesting for newbies like me to follow your learning process with 3D printing.
  7. derex, Looks like the seam line drill sergeants got to you before I did. Get those legs smooth and shiny!!!
  8. Looks fantastic Thom! Could be an 80s movie prop.
  9. Thanks. I have a lot to learn about gears to figure this out. I'm thinking about a double rack and pinion. There are two options, a long thread vs. a perpendicular worm gear. From what I know the worm gear will wear down gears from the friction and may slow down the speed. The long thread may be hard to stabilize. I wonder if anyone knows which option is preferable and why?
  10. Yes, I've wracked my brain trying other ideas. Draw me up what your thinking: the belt drive and the "mechanical linkages".
  11. There are 1/72 Blast Deflectors on Shapeways with workable actuators, but they are too large to fit my Trumpeter deck and other kits I am aware of. So you have to build your own flight deck, which is probably a good idea, because all you need is a 5mm thick pla plate and add the details, which I had to do anyway.
  12. This is a test of my mechanism to raise the Blast Deflectors. It has some issues, so I need to make it more reliable or come up with a different approach. The way it works is the styrene bar raises the three deflector panels by pushing them up, and then the deflectors drop by gravity. I may actually end up using paper hinges, because I need zero resistance for the deflectors to drop back down. The angle of the bar causes them to rise in sequence. The problem with the twin motors is they get out of synch. The possible solution I found is that if the limit switches are on only one motor, with each up/down cycle they can realign, because the bar hits the motor on one side and is forced to a stop, while the other motor catches up and hits the limit switch. (I need to add a second force stop at the top of one thread.) But I have a couple problems with this solution: 1) The motor on the right sometimes locks when the bar hits it and forces the motor to stop (I ordered small springs to see if that prevents the locking). Even if I switch motors, the locking still occurs on the right side, so it might be an unlevel platform or a slightly off angle (The threads have to be perfectly parallel). 2) I don't know if this forced stop for a couple seconds while the other motor catches up will burn out the engine. I am using a boring 1/72 Trumpeter FLight Deck, but trying to add some details to spruce it up, and photo etch tie-downs.
  13. Not sure which TV/movie version that is. I am strictly TOS, and your wessel has the classic lines I like. Nice start Pengbuzz. Hope you mix in details from different line art and screen grabs, in addition to the kit.
  14. Kylwell, That's a nice little shop. I wonder if their turrets are fully drilled out tubes for lighting. Mechtech, the scratch work looks gorgeous. I almost don't want you to prime it, because I like the different materials! ...I need to get a mill! Derex, How is the Q-Rau going? The thing must have nightmarish gaps to fill. Warm up your files and putty
  15. Thanks for the nice comments. I'm putting her on a temporary base, while I work on the flight deck and lift.
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