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About arbit

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  1. Bolt, Looking good. I also have the V1 from Xigfrid. A prized piece next to my M+ valks. But of course he had to go and make an even cooler V2
  2. For sale 1/60 Yamato VF-4G (Not Arcadia later releases), because I am interested in switching to the VF-4A scheme. USD 300 (Includes Worldwide registered shipping) In perfect condition. Never Transformed or played with. All parts and box and instructions and decals included. Displayed in glass cabinet. Box stored in protective carton. Nothing missing. Box Grade A. Note: 5x decals cleanly applied to each side on non transforming parts, as per photo.
  3. I'm a cat lover too, but I'm allergic to them these days. I do have four kids, does that count?
  4. Really nice work. I think you hit the target for what you were aiming. And that's probably the best photo of the bunch. Looks like you started with a base coat, then speckled the whole thing, and then a top coat, before the gloss. How much did you dilute each step? I want to do a valk with this method, but a bit concerned.
  5. Oh, and more photos and close ups please
  6. electricindigo, Very smooth finish as always. You definitely have an air brush style of your own. I would say that the paint finish, color palette, pixel camo and decals are very nicely balanced. Everything works together very nice and fits beautifully. Most real world aircraft are severely weathered with oils, which is cool of course, but your's has the new look I prefer for a change sometimes.
  7. Thanks gents. I'm not social media savvy. Please feel free to share it around.
  8. Very nice work and hard to choose between the two. Although we rarely see such a nice Gnerl as this one by Takering.
  9. Warren looks awesome. The build looks perfect and the weathered painting is great too. Weak us through this: What is the base kit and what customization did you do? Don't tell me this is the old Arii kit.
  10. Thanks @Reïvaj, this cross section really highlights the differences. Seems to me Bandia traded thicker legs for thinner arms. Guess you cant have both fit. And here's me playing with my toys... Pick your poison.
  11. No need for a big old 9v. A 3v button cell would light an led for days. I see you used Tamiya epoxy to fill gaps. How well does it bond to resin? And does it sand well?
  12. And we are DONE. Please enjoy my Macross show. Hope you have as much fun as I did making it. Comments and feedback welcome (except about one little musical choice ). Thanks for all your support along the way. Couldn't have done it without you.
  13. Nice work neptunesurvey. It takes more effort to light up a small scale model than a larger one. If you want to win more medals, I can give you a couple tips from what I see here. - Your engine LEDs are leaking through the plastic on the sides. You can light block so the light only emits out the end of the thrusters. You can try painting the sides of the leds, wrapping the leds in black tape, housing the led in a light-bocked styrene tube, and/or painting the insides of the thrusters black. For light blocking I have used black paper, liquid electrical tape, polyurethane primer, and black and metalic paints. Just keep going till there is no leakage. -Your fiber is extruding a bit. I use a square of masking tape, put a 0.10 hole in the center, slide it down each fiber, then snip it with a flat sniper or nail cutter without damaging the model. - You can adjust your resistors for each effect so they look right in real life for the audience. - You can use a thinner tube to base the model at this scale by switching to thin 0.30 enamel wires. Hope that helps.
  14. Your red coat looks fine to me. Remember that your panel lining and any wash/oils you use will also darken the red. Don't ever bother with stripping and repainting unless you have a major chemical reaction. the benefit of airbrush is that it gives you thin coats you can always build up and adjust the final shade as you go. So in this case, you could mix a slightly darker shade and go over it again. (A lot of times I will dilute my top layers 70-80% if I want want to lay it on very lightly to adjust a shade). So if you don't get the shade you want at the first go, just keep going and build up to your goal. One lesson I learned is not to rush and remove any masking till I am sure I like the color. And if you are not getting a smooth airbrush flow with Vallejo, I recommend moving to Tamiya as soon as possible. If your airbrush is spluttering, it is not you, it's the paint. Took me years to figure that out.
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