Benson13 Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 I had to take a break from this one but I'm back at it. I'll be posting some updates shortly. Even though I've messed this one up quite a bit I've learned a lot about what not to do. I have a VF-2SS kit I want to build but wanted to level up my skills first and this is definitely helping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benson13 Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 I decided that I was gonna slap some Promodeler's Wash on it and this is what I used to get the job done. First is a small saucer with a little bit of water in it and the second is ordinary kitchen napkins. Exciting I know. I then took a biggest paint brush I had (a number 12) and dunked it the wash and brushed it on really thick. After that all you have to do is wait until it dries (about 25 min) and then wipe it off. The wetter the napkin the more you're going to remove. What I did was dip my fingers in the water and then wiped them off on the napkin and it gave me the look I wanted. This same technique worked great on a Bandai V.1 VF-25S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benson13 Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 And here we have a nice weathered and panel lined Valk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jefuemon Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Pretty simple work for good results, ne? For the harder to reach areas, I like to use a damp Q-tip. What's also nice, is if you properly affix your decals, you can put that right over the top of them, and get the wash effect over the decal, making the decal look more like a paint application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jardann Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Lookin good benson! That wash makes a huge difference because of the nearly all white scheme. Breaks up the flat areas nicely and pops the details. You are really showing a good process to your builds and it looks like you are learning a lot as you go. Keep up the good work! I'll be interested to see your next project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benson13 Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 Thanks Jardann. I'm trying to get better. I'm still a little hesitant to start the VF-2SS, if for some reason I screw it up I can't afford another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchley Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) Thanks Jardann. I'm trying to get better. I'm still a little hesitant to start the VF-2SS, if for some reason I screw it up I can't afford another. The VF-2SS is a fairly straightforward kit, and shouldn't be that hard to assemble. Just take care of: - there's more excess molding flash on the parts than later kits - leg landing gear doors - take care when putting them in (for some reason I ended up putting one in backwards. In rectifying the problem, one of the axle pegs broke on it. Not a major problem... just frustrating because the instructions weren't 100% clear at that point) Post assembly is where it gets tricky - and why I suggest doing a dry fit before slapping on the glue. - shoulder joints: it's an ingenious design, but due to the construction of the actual shoulder joints, they have a tendency to pop apart when rotating the arms on the joint. Something about the parts being made from a softer plastic or something. - painting/washes: I did the panel lines with a fine point oil-based pen (aka Gundam marker), and there are a couple of spots where dis-assembling the section was the only way to remove excess ink to get the lines to look right (the stored wings and the backpack mounting plate is what's really coming to mind right now). Other than that, the (unpainted, unglued) kit came out quite nice, and the stickers were a nice change from the recent Bandai MF line ones. Nice, bold colours, not transparent, and no excess clear plastic around their border. My only complaints are the nose has a tendency to slide out in battroid, the head lasers pop out too easily, and the aforementioned shoulders (not exactly weak in permanently broken, just annoying that they have to be reassembled almost every time the arm is rotated on the joint). Edited July 16, 2012 by sketchley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Hungry Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) Thanks Jardann. I'm trying to get better. I'm still a little hesitant to start the VF-2SS, if for some reason I screw it up I can't afford another. If you do have issues with it, I will happily give you the one that I have. Mine's been sitting in a box ever since I bought it 15 or so years ago. Edited July 18, 2012 by Capt Hungry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benson13 Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 If you do have issues with it, I will happily give you the one that I have. Mine's been sitting in a box ever since I bought it 15 or so years ago. Thanks bro, I appreciate that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 Looking good so far. I'm going to have to buy some of that wash. I tried using the regular mix I use and it just doesn't cut the mustard. Keep up the good work and posts! - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vt102 Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Very nice start. I was going to tackle the same kit... Before I try my Hasegawa ones. I just got my new airbrush, and bought similar supplies Mr. Cheng uses for his washes... never did them before. What brand and type of wash are you using??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benson13 Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 Very nice start. I was going to tackle the same kit... Before I try my Hasegawa ones. I just got my new airbrush, and bought similar supplies Mr. Cheng uses for his washes... never did them before. What brand and type of wash are you using??? I used Promodeller's Wash. It can be purchased here if you are interested http://www.florymodels.co.uk/. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vt102 Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Cool! I was watching his how-to videos on you tube. I may have to try that one instead of the oil wash..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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