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Variable Valkyrie Models


Capt_Bob

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I am a Modeling fan whos interested in building a VF-1S Valkyrie. I was thinking of doing the1/72 scale Variable VF-1S from Bandai. I don't know what to expect with a Variable Fighter, so I'd like to know the pros and con of Variable model Kits before going off and buying the model.

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I love my Bandai VF-1S 1/72 transformable kit. Just don't think of it as a toy - leave it one most of the time as otherwise you end up wit lots of chipped paint. Fighter mode is poor compared to Hasegawa, but I love Gerwalk. The panel lines are deeper than on Hasegawa kits, making them easier to do as well. If I had this kit to do over again (or if I build another one) I would putty over the black "circles" (I don't know what to call them) and use Hasegawa decals for them instead.

post-3-1069517948_thumb.jpg

Edited by Phil
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For the 1/72 transformable Valks, the posability is as good as the HG gundams. Except that the 1/72's dont have ball and socket joints, which limits the posability on the hips. The backpack in Battroid mode is floppy and doesn't stay on. Other than that it's pretty stable.

Btw the VF-1J's head lasers aren't jointed, they need to be glued on. Either create joints for them or choose a permanent position for them. Not sure about the 1S head. The 1A head laser is jointed, so it moves backwards and forwards.

There are a few movable parts that have plastic on plastic connections that could cause paint chips,

- upper arm joints

- the folding backpack and stabilizers(?).

- the arm assembly sliders( that slides in and out during valk to battroid)

It's a good kit altogether.

Mervin

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The head lasers of the VF-1S are a plastic-on-plastic joint. They will get floppy over time with use - I periodically coat the pins with a coat of superglue for stiffness.

The only placeswhere I seem to get paint chips when I transform from Battloid to Gerwalk are the metal connectors that connect the front and back chest panel pieces in battloid mode, and on the tail stabilizer joints.

Posability isn't close to a HG gundam - it's about equivalent to an old Zeta or ZZ series kit.

Edited by Phil
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I love my Bandai VF-1S 1/72 transformable kit. Just don't think of it as a toy - leave it one most of the time as otherwise you end up wit lots of chipped paint. Fighter mode is poor compared to Hasegawa, but I love Gerwalk. The panel lines are deeper than on Hasegawa kits, making them easier to do as well. If I had this kit to do over again (or if I build another one) I would putty over the black "circles" (I don't know what to call them) and use Hasegawa decals for them instead.

Nice looking kit Phil!

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Nice looking kit Phil!

Thanks! I drag my pics out from time to time when I see threads that appropriate :)

I hear you on that one. My first Macross model kit was a VF-1A Cannon Fodder 1/72 Variable. It still sits proudly amongst my customs and other models.

bandai_vf-1a.jpg

I have all of the others, too. The VF-1D is 75% done and has been for about two years. Someday I will finish that one and build the other four. These are good kits, despite the limited posability, part interchange, and paint chipping issues mentioned above. I think I got into these (and customizing) because I couldn't afford the 1/55 toys at the time.

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The hardest one for me to find was the IMAI VF-1J Hikaru. For some bizarre reason, when Bandai bought the IMAI molds they never bothered to make this kit again. I won't even tell you how much I paid for it--it's not a pretty figure for a model. I guess you could snag a Max or Millia 1J and turn it into a Hikaru 1J, but you would need the right markings. Wait a second, I think that's how I got started with making custom decals! I remember being frustrated at one point with the rarity of the IMAI Hikaru 1J and decided to buy a Millia 1J and make the markings myself. Funny how things turn out, eh?

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