New Yamato Transformig Valkyrie Fixes

[MacrossMan]

There may already be a thread related to this topic, so lock it or whatever if it one exisists. Otherwise, what would you guys like to see fixed on the upcoming transforming Valks from Yamato?

I'll start it off with asking for the rubber inserts for the shoulder ball joints like the ones in the hips of the 1/48's. I believe that would make for better arm poses and prevent what I consider "LMS or DMS" or limp or dead shoulder syndrome.

[misterryno]

"LMS or DMS" or limp or dead shoulder syndrome.

What's the "M" stand for? Would'nt it be "LSS or DSS"?

[MacrossMan]

What's the "M" stand for? Would'nt it be "LSS or DSS"?

Man, your guess is as good as mines . I have the slightest idea where my mind was at. Maybe on that hip hop group from the late 90's DMS...Who knows. You're right though, it would be LSS or DSS. Maybe liMp had me thinking LMS...gotta get my bat utility belt re-upped with some brain boosting pellets.

Edited March 12, 2008 by MacrossMan

[MacrossMan]

There may already be a thread related to this topic, so lock it or whatever if it one exisists. Otherwise, what would you guys like to see fixed on the upcoming transforming Valks from Yamato?

I'll start it off with asking for the rubber inserts for the shoulder ball joints like the ones in the hips of the 1/48's. I believe that would make for better arm poses and prevent what I consider "LMS or DMS" or limp or dead shoulder syndrome.

I wonder how difficult it would be to pop the arms off a 1/48 or 1/60 and place a thin rubber piece into the socket to give it some grip so that the arms hold their position better.

[misterryno]

Man, your guess is as good as mines . I have the slightest idea where my mind was at. Maybe on that hip hop group from the late 90's DMS...Who knows. You're right though, it would be LSS or DSS. Maybe liMp had me thinking LMS...gotta get my bat utility belt re-upped with some brain boosting pellets.

LMAO I actually do not think there is a thread like this yet. I am not sure what I would like to see fixed. I will think on this one. But, maybe we won't need any fixes on the v2 1/60 valks. Maybe they will finally be EVERYTHING we've ALWAYS wanted.

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

Make sure the toys can be tightened or loosened by screws so if things are too tight or loose we can adjust if necessary by ourselves. Don't just glue stuff.

Double Jointed Elbow as standard on all valks. (the SV-51 really needed this since the forearm is so long!)

Have things lock together like the way transformers do. Not just sit near other stuff but look like they just hang there. (example the black flap on the SV-51 in robot mode just looks loose and a smalle gap is visible between it and the chest it should sit flush against thanks to nothing for it to lock onto. If they are worried it will ugly up the outer appearance of the toy just make sure you make covers to hide the 'holes' where the little hole is for the peg or whatever that needs to go into that hole just like how you have screw covers for your toys.)

It seems that generally fighter modes are fine when it comes to things locking together firmly and making the toy feel firmly fit together, but robot mode is sometimes a little half-assed. Some stuff sits tighter than others rather than everything sitting locked into other things tightly and consistantly as it does in fighter mode.

I think stuff shouldn't flop around loosely or be easy to accidentally push out of place and make the robot look like there is a tiny gap when you let go of it. But rather it should snap-fit together like it really belongs shut into place. (yf-19 chest for example)

Don't rush the robot modes. Think about them as much as the fighter mode in terms of locking together nicely.

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

Another thing:

don't go cheap on the tampo printing of details. I would pay extra for more tampo printing. I don't want a combination of ugly stickers and prints. But as much printing as possible. (don't try to make "special exclusive" editions with more tampo prints or stickers like what megahouse is doing with the Mospeada Ride Armor). If it does boost the cost to unreasonable levels then just do the most important stuff.

As an example lets say you re-release the VB-6 Konig monster, do the damn eyes on the side of it. Honestly, how hard would that have been?

Instead of ball joints for bigger toys: you need detented ones on the hips imo. (sharkteeth - every time you push it the hip must push outward to go over the tooth, which then immediately snaps back down due to pressure from a spring that pushes everything back together towards each other after one click) Have double jointed hips: the hard detented joints that click (up-down) and another one for side to side (for A-stances). The upper limit of a valk to do "the splits" is the clashing together of the intakes against the nose/crotchpiece of the robot. So make the click increments smaller/closer-together.

I want double joints for hips and maybe as standard: let them extend too. (just like the SV-51 which can collapse inwards and pop outwards if more space or clearance is needed)

Above all: flexibility (good materials that have a little give so things can't crack) with firmness. (held tightly together like a spring loaded projectile stuck in a chunky munky ready to shoot out violently ) That is the key.

Edited March 12, 2008 by 1/1 LowViz Lurker

[MacrossMan]

LMAO I actually do not think there is a thread like this yet. I am not sure what I would like to see fixed. I will think on this one. But, maybe we won't need any fixes on the v2 1/60 valks. Maybe they will finally be EVERYTHING we've ALWAYS wanted.

Well, has limp noodle shoulders been a complaint or am I the only one whining about the ball joints in the shoulders becoming "slippery" and loose?

Edited March 12, 2008 by MacrossMan

[MacrossMan]

Another thing:

don't go cheap on the tampo printing of details. I would pay extra for more tampo printing. I don't want a combination of ugly stickers and prints. But as much printing as possible. (don't try to make "special exclusive" editions with more tampo prints or stickers like what megahouse is doing with the Mospeada Ride Armor). If it does boost the cost to unreasonable levels then just do the most important stuff.

As an example lets say you re-release the VB-6 Konig monster, do the damn eyes on the side of it. Honestly, how hard would that have been?

Instead of ball joints for bigger toys: you need detented ones on the hips imo. (sharkteeth - every time you push it the hip must push outward to go over the tooth, which then immediately snaps back down due to pressure from a spring that pushes everything back together towards each other after one click) Have double jointed hips: the hard detented joints that click (up-down) and another one for side to side (for A-stances). The upper limit of a valk to do "the splits" is the clashing together of the intakes against the nose/crotchpiece of the robot. So make the click increments smaller/closer-together.

I want double joints for hips and maybe as standard: let them extend too. (just like the SV-51 which can collapse inwards and pop outwards if more space or clearance is needed)

Above all: flexibility (good materials that have a little give so things can't crack) with firmness. (held tightly together like a spring loaded projectile stuck in a chunky munky ready to shoot out violently ) That is the key.

I had given some thought to the sharkteeth or gear like mechanisms for the shoulders too, but that limits the poseability as the arms would move in only two directions; probably back and forth. The rubber inserts would give a more full range of motion I think.

Edited March 12, 2008 by MacrossMan

[misterryno]

Well, has limp noodle shoulders been a complaint or am I the only one whining about the ball joints in the shoulders becoming "slippery" and loose?

Oh no....you are surely not the only one.

[Vostok 7]

I would particularly like to see the use of more magnets for the securing of parts in different modes, like the Garlands. I would love to see a re-release of the VB-6 with the stupid leg locks replaced with magnets to hold the legs in place. I'm always impressed with the Garland when I play around with it, I think using magnets to hold parts together in the different modes is a really good way to do it without using tabs that can break or just don't hold properly.

The best place for using them? Holding the arms to the legs, holding the backpacks to the legs, extra security for the gunpods, etc. etc.

Vostok 7

Edited March 12, 2008 by Vostok 7

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

I had given some thought to the sharkteeth or gear like mechanisms for the shoulders too, but that limits the poseability as the arms would move in only two directions; probably back and forth. The rubber inserts would give a more full range of motion I think.

Two joints in shoulder. One for back and forth, another for the up-down. The SV-51 for example already uses seperate joints for back-forth, raised-to-side/lowered-to-side. But just use stiffer detented joint that can never go loose for the back-forth movement since you know in the future the gunpod and armor it will put on might add extra weight that could make a ball joint go loose over time. There's nothing a single ball joint can do that two normal detented/click joints can't, ..except make the shoulder armor itself point a *funny angles. (but that's got nothing to do with the other parts of the arm.) Generally I think bigger toys need the ratchets/click joints over smooth ball joints considering the weight. But smaller toys are better with balljoints because they are lighter.

Often one of the things that limits a robot's poseability isn't so much the lack of balljoints, but the armor it wears restricting its movement due to lack of clearance. (for an example see the Yamato 1/60 Qrau. The legs can't curl up) To solve the 'lack of clearance' issue the SV-51 already has the extendable box-like thing that comes out of the hip/thigh for extra space so that the legs can rotate a little at the intakes. And in the case of the knees there are the extendable knees with double joints which can be collapsed when needed. I don't see why they couldn't do that for shoulders, right?

Now instead of ball joints just have two ratchet-type joints if possible. One of the loosest joints on my SV-51 is the head, which sits on a ball joint. Everytime I move it the head rotates. Rubber might help, but I'd rather 3 joints. One for side to side, one for up and down, and another for rotating the head. Rubber might wear out over time.

*eg: banpresto valks have ball joints and allow you to angle the shoulder armor how you please. Compare that to the shoulder of say the bandai 1/65 vf-17 valk which has the armor stuck into place rigidly. One of the reason I love the shoulders of the banpresto so much despite it falling apart easily without the use of some bluetack.

Edited March 12, 2008 by 1/1 LowViz Lurker