Spatula Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Hey guys, I'm done with the decals for my VF-1S Valk, however, I want to know how to use the airbrush to spray onto the decals to get that nice painted on look, since the decals are way too shiny. I'm guessing you use some very highly thinned base coats and just spray very lightly around the decals, but I want to ask you guys before I start doing something I've never done before. I do have some Tamiya flat base, some future floor wax, paint thinner, and the appropriate coats. Help me please. ;___; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegunny Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Testors Dulcote works for me. Vallejo air brush flat is also good and you can even apply that with a brush. Don't use the Tamiya flat base as that is only intented to be mixed with gloss paint to make it matt. It's not a clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 What you really should have done is use a decal setting solution when applying them, which softens the decal and makes it adhere more closely, and then what I like to do is use a brushed on coat of Future Floor Wax to smooth out the edges, and then I apply Krylon Matte Finish on all of my models.... on most of ym stuff, you can't even catch your fingernail on the edges of the decals they are so close.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spatula Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 I have Walther's Decal solution and applied it to all the decals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonc Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 If you putting decals over bottled acrylic paint, use the Tamiya flat Base after you put the decals on. If you are putting the decals on spray paint, buy Model Master Lusterless Flat coat, or the Testors Dull Coat. Those, in my opinion, work very strong, and make the decals look like they were painted on. Good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-1 Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 (edited) If you putting decals over bottled acrylic paint, use the Tamiya flat Base after you put the decals on. If you are putting the decals on spray paint, buy Model Master Lusterless Flat coat, or the Testors Dull Coat. Those, in my opinion, work very strong, and make the decals look like they were painted on. Good stuff. Best bet with stuff like that is to gloss coat the thing, put them on, use decal setting solution, gloss again, THEN dull coat...... Don't use Testors Dullcote on white or it will turn yellow....... Edited October 12, 2006 by Skull-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wm cheng Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 (edited) The best (proper) way is to spray on a heavy coat of future to seal in the decals (the future blends in the edge of the decal to the paint surface) - then spray on your final finish (I use a acryl semi-gloss by ModelMaster) over the whole thing. That being said, the decals should of been applied over a glossy (future clear coat) surface in the first place. Never apply decals over a flat/matte based surface - thats a sure way to get the silvering that can occur in the carrier film. Also it may look fine at first, but if you apply a flat clear coat over a decal that was applied over a flat/matte surface, the silvering will appear or become worst. I said "proper" because I often skip the future spray (unless the decals are quite thick). The Hasegawa decals are fine, not too thick, but if you trimed really close to the carrier film, and you applied decal softener, then you should be fine in just spraying your final finish clear coat over the entire model. I often dust the plane down in a very light thinned sky grey in the direction of airflow to darken up some of the white surfaces and lighten up some of the darker decals to help blend them into the overall paint scheme so they do not catch the eye as being too constrasty or jarring. Then protect this light mist with a clear coat of the desired finish (again I usually choose a semi-gloss for the fuselage and a flat clear for the fast packs) Good luck! Edited October 12, 2006 by wm cheng Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-1 Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 I don't trust the durability of the Future though. It does not bond to the surface the same way a paint-based clear coat does... So if you plan to handle the thing much... Caution... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 I wouldn't be too sceptical... I've used Future alot and always been impressed with its durability... and remember, I PLAY with alot of my toys after working on them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-1 Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Well it is ultimatley a wax/polish not paint. So it will wear off easier IMHO. I only use it for canopies and as a top coat, NOT as a base coat for decals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noyhauser Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Well it is ultimatley a wax/polish not paint. So it will wear off easier IMHO. I only use it for canopies and as a top coat, NOT as a base coat for decals. Correct me if I'm wrong, but its NOT a wax or polish but an Acrylic finish. Its made to withstand people walking all over it all day long, so its quite sufficient someone handling it as a model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wm cheng Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Everything you ever wanted to know about Future! http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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