David Hingtgen Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 Has anyone ever stripped off all the decals of a model and nicely preserved the paint, so as to re-decal the kit? There's some new decals out for a model that I did a few years ago but it is very important to me and would love to do it with the newer, much more detailed decals. However, since it is a lit-up kit and has massive amounts of wiring and super-glue, it cannot possibly be disassembled nor repainted. If I have to, I'll just apply some of the new decals to where there's nothing currently or few paint details, but I would prefer to re-do evey square inch. (It's a HEAVILY decaled model, when you look at it it's about 40% decal and 60% paint, if not more decal) If you're curious or it'll help your advice, it's a Star Trek ship and there are now decals available to aztec the entire hull---my model is un-azteced pure white, and I want to aztec it. (I do have a few issues with the non-azteced parts of the new decal set, so I would also want to preserve a few of the original decals which I feel are superior) (would also take the opportunity to clean up some pylon seams if possible) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 The only thing I could think of to get just the decals is to take some fine grit sandpaper and carefully sand off the decals and touch up the paint underneath. You certtainly aren't going to be able to soak any strippers on the decals and get just them without messing up the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 not sure if it will work but .... You could try soaking it in warmish water for a bit to see if the decal adhesive loosens. htis is of cause dependant on weather you sealed them after application and if you used acrylic paints. I soaked a kit once which I painted using enamells and the transfers came off. not sure how the Acrylics would react they are after all water based. But as your model is the internal lit one I wouldn bother if you have any type of circuit inside, if it cant be removed. A bunch of led`s and a battery connector and switch should be o.k as long as they get plenty of time to dry out completly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VF-19 Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 not sure if it will work but ....You could try soaking it in warmish water for a bit to see if the decal adhesive loosens. htis is of cause dependant on weather you sealed them after application and if you used acrylic paints. I soaked a kit once which I painted using enamells and the transfers came off. not sure how the Acrylics would react they are after all water based. But as your model is the internal lit one I wouldn bother if you have any type of circuit inside, if it cant be removed. A bunch of led`s and a battery connector and switch should be o.k as long as they get plenty of time to dry out completly 358222[/snapback] As long as the acyrilic paint is dry (as in, it's been a while), you can dunk it under water and leave it there with no ill effect on the paint. If you haven't sealed the kit, break out the masking tape and apply it to the decals you'd like to remove. Peel off the tape (gently, but not too gently), and most, if not all, of the decal will come off with it. Found that one out the... hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted January 8, 2006 Author Share Posted January 8, 2006 It's not acrylic, it's enamel white with lacquer clear coats. And it's been dry for about 3 years at this point (plus the 6 months various parts had in building). I am still considering just applying new decal to the areas that are currently bare, or that plus just a few bits of replacement where any paint damage wouldn't show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VF-19 Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 It's not acrylic, it's enamel white with lacquer clear coats. And it's been dry for about 3 years at this point (plus the 6 months various parts had in building). I am still considering just applying new decal to the areas that are currently bare, or that plus just a few bits of replacement where any paint damage wouldn't show. 358550[/snapback] Well... So much for the masking tape route. At this point you have several options, and none of them are non-stress inducing... 1) Find out if you can dissolve the lacquer clear coat and leave the enamels intact. 2) Strip the ENTIRE model and start over... 3) Sand off the clear coat, using the decals as an indicator that you've removed the clear coat. Frankly, that's all my mind can think of... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 I dunno...I still think that sanding is the safest and least destructive method... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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